Tie Rod/Drag link rubbing on sway bar bracket

[spinaldex]

So, I lifted my XJ ~2" and my drag link is touching the bracket for the JKS sway bars to slide in when I turn fully to the right.

The pitman arm I had in this thing came from the previous owner so I have no idea what it is. I measured it as best I could and it looks like its roughly 3" drop height from top eye to bottom.

I'm guessing that I could correct the drag link rubbing issue with a longer pitman arm, but:

1. I don't know if I can get a longer one
2. I'm wondering if that will cause any other steering problems

Right now, I would really like to avoid spending $350 on an over the knuckle setup.

I'm wondering if you can think of any options for me? Would it be safe to just get a taller pitman arm, and if so, do you know where I could find one for my situation?

Thanks everyone!

 

[spinaldex]

Actually, based on this link:

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?512010-Drop-length-in-pitman-arms

It looks like a stock XJ pitman arm is 3", so the one on the rig might be stock height. If that's case, IRO sells a 2.5" drop:

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...e=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SDPA&Category_Code=XST

Which would correct the problem .. right?

 

[WB9YZU]

I simply trimmed the bracket.

-Ron

 

[rockclimber]

how bad is the rubbing? does it prevent it from steering to full lock?

 

[WB9YZU]

I've only experienced this on lifted XJs. Due to the lift, the inverse y becomes more pronounced.

The point of contact I have experienced is the drag link/ tie rod connection point to the pass side sway bar mount. It generally doesn't cause problems on the street, but rather when flexed a bit and when turned passenger.
The bind then occurred when bringing the steering back to straight.

The older cast brackets were a smooth arc. The new stamped brackets have a square edge at the front and that is the point of contact. If you cut off about 3/8" of so of that tip the joint can get by.

-Ron

 

[markw]

Trim it. A dropped pitman arm is going to be more trouble than it's worth with stock everything else. You have to keep the trackbar/drag link on the same "plane" to prevent bumpsteer. I'm at 5" lift and still running stock pitman arm.


Mark

 

[spinaldex]

Sorry, I should have clarified, i lifted 2" more, so I'm at 6.5" of total lift. The angle on the drag link is pretty severe and I don't like the way it looks since it bows the split tie rod up quite a bit. That's why I'm considering a drop pitman arm.

 

[markw]

Move the links then. I've got a set of these in the box that will be going on an axle this week for a WJ steering setup. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...ay-bar-mounts-prototype-clayton-off-road.html

 

[lazyxj]

Sorry, I should have clarified, i lifted 2" more, so I'm at 6.5" of total lift. The angle on the drag link is pretty severe and I don't like the way it looks since it bows the split tie rod up quite a bit. That's why I'm considering a drop pitman arm.

You are pushing or exceeding the limits of the stock steering at 6.5" of lift. It might be time to consider OTK/raised track bar steering or a Currie setup, either of which will handle the high angles better.
Currie's steering is bent so it will clear the sway bar brackets in many applications.

A dropped pitman arm is a band-aid that is going to give you bumpsteer in return for a slight improvement in the TRE angle and it isn't going to reduce the angle enough improvement to cure the problem.
There are a lot of advantages to keeping a lift as possible.

 

[spinaldex]

Done. I'll get an OTK setup. Pretty easy decision since most reputable shops are charging $150 for 3"+ pitman arm and $350 for a steering setup. Might as well do it right.

Thanks everyone!