The Official 97+ HO in a Renix Thread
- Thread starter downshift1
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Muad'Dib
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bend, Oregon
Mike1331 said:
Im in Oregon, i dont believe we have any smog checks or any emissions laws. I wish we had at least one law however, if your car smokes like hell you get a ticket
What kind of work did you have the machine shop do to the head? What was involved in switching the intake manifold? It would preferrable (if i do go to the HO intake) get one from a 97+ since the bends are smoother and the plenum is much larger.
Thanks for your help, and any other suggestions from anyone else would be greatly appreciated.
Mike1331
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Folsom, CA
I did not have a valve spring compressor and was not even sure if my exaust valves were any good as a few of them looked like they would either need a little extra attention when preforming the 3 angle valve job or replaced. I had the shop disasemble, hot tank, paint, 3 angle valve job, and reasemble with new seals. They charged me 250 and this included the head gasket kit.
if you do a search you can find all sorts of writes ups on this subject
if you do a search you can find all sorts of writes ups on this subject
Muad'Dib
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bend, Oregon
Mike1331 said:
As i said in the first post that i made, i have done alot of searching. It seems everyone has a different story. Either it took this that and the other part, or all it took was an adapter for the TPS sensor. I was looking for more peoples advise on how it came for them so i can narrow it down to what it really takes. Plus i want to know if this is even recommended. Would it be better to just get the HO head and use the renix intake\TB.
Also, any suggestions on a exhaust manifold? Havent found much of anything for the renix.
Part of the confussion is there is probably 3-5 different ways to do this swap. You will probably get a bit more power from a 91-95 head or 96-98 head. They both have the same intake and exhaust ports or close enough. If you go with a latter head, then you will either need to adapt the Renix TB to it, adapt the HO TB to the Renix wiring or convert to newer year wiring. I think the lesser of the evils is to adapt the wiring to an HO TB.
The other problem with this swap is the fuel rail. The problem is the tabs of the Renix aren't in the same spot as the HO's. Then the Renix and HO's fuel lines are different locations. The Renix has the fuel attachment front and rear on the fuel rail. The Ho's in on the front. Some zip tie the Renix in place. I don't know how well that works. I plan to adapt the HO's fuel rail and steel lines and then hose clamp near the chassis to the steel fuel lines back.
As far as headers, they are basically the same. I think the Renix is about 1/8 to 1/4 lower, but the larger header tubes cover the exhaust port. The part that's different is there is a boss for the EGR tube. Basically if you don't put back on your EGR, then you don't need that boss. You could have one welded on. There are a few headers that have them. Pace Setter, I thought Borla and Clifford. Clifford doesn't advertise it though. You have to drill through the header wall. Also their ceramic coating is $75, so thats a good deal.
Tom
The other problem with this swap is the fuel rail. The problem is the tabs of the Renix aren't in the same spot as the HO's. Then the Renix and HO's fuel lines are different locations. The Renix has the fuel attachment front and rear on the fuel rail. The Ho's in on the front. Some zip tie the Renix in place. I don't know how well that works. I plan to adapt the HO's fuel rail and steel lines and then hose clamp near the chassis to the steel fuel lines back.
As far as headers, they are basically the same. I think the Renix is about 1/8 to 1/4 lower, but the larger header tubes cover the exhaust port. The part that's different is there is a boss for the EGR tube. Basically if you don't put back on your EGR, then you don't need that boss. You could have one welded on. There are a few headers that have them. Pace Setter, I thought Borla and Clifford. Clifford doesn't advertise it though. You have to drill through the header wall. Also their ceramic coating is $75, so thats a good deal.
Tom
Mike1331
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Folsom, CA
i wouldn't recomend zip-tieing any of your engine components together especially one filled with gas, adapting the fuel lines was easy and you'l want the higher pressure the newer FPR has. The HO header has a more free-flowing design opposed to the renix, I am using it just to get the full hp gains from the conversion.
To do the swap i needed
HO-
head
fuel rail and injectors
intake manifold
power steering pump bracket
header
throttle cable
throttle body
tranny kick down cable (this would be a good time to do a tranny fluid and filter change)
Fuel lines to adapt to renix lines
Use the spark plug for whatever year head you get
tps to salvage the rotator knob
The total cost for me including gasket kit and head work was around $375
To do the swap i needed
HO-
head
fuel rail and injectors
intake manifold
power steering pump bracket
header
throttle cable
throttle body
tranny kick down cable (this would be a good time to do a tranny fluid and filter change)
Fuel lines to adapt to renix lines
Use the spark plug for whatever year head you get
tps to salvage the rotator knob
The total cost for me including gasket kit and head work was around $375
Muad'Dib
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bend, Oregon
Mike1331 said:
Thanks that helps a little better. Does anyone have a good write up and what exactly needs to be done? Like a step by step. I know its a stretch, buts its worth a shot asking.
What happens to the EGR valve's vacuum line? Just block it off?
Muad'Dib
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bend, Oregon
Muad'Dib said:
After talking with someone via PM this has become a little more understandable about what needs to be done. 91+ (from what i understand) doesnt even have an egr valve. So then the vacuum lines wouldnt even be an issue, because they would be non-existent. (if the 91+ intake manifold is used). Then its pretty straight-foward as long as you have all the proper parts. Like the transmission cable, throttle cable etc. Just replace the old with the new. If im mistaken please correct me. When i do this (probably a few months from now) ill try to remember to take pictures and post a write up based on my experience... Thanks
I tried to look for a write up, but couldn't find one. Seems you have a good plan. Since you don't need the EGR (maybe not entirely legal) it makes this swap much simpler. Others have blocked of the EGR with no problems. The only hurdle will be the throttle sensor hook up, if you use the HO Throttle body (TB). I would try and use a HO TB. They can be bore a bit larger (62mm) than the Renix TB (59mm). Its usually cheaper to have the HO TB bored than the Renix. Plus no need of an adapter. You could use the newer intake manifold ('00 and up). But would need to look at the accesory drive belt. Look at Go-Jeeps article. There's probably a few HP's, but not as much as claimed.
Also, I wasn't recommending the zip ties. I'd use a 91-95 fuel rail and the steel fuel lines down to the bottom of the cab. Then use fuel line to connect to the other steel lines.
While your at it, I'd get a 91-95 valve cover. It update the CCV tubes and use the newr ones (00-up). Look on Mad-XJ for a writeup. Get rid of a lot of clutter and I think performs better. Or you could adapt a PVC vavle to the rear on you valve cover.
Tom
Also, I wasn't recommending the zip ties. I'd use a 91-95 fuel rail and the steel fuel lines down to the bottom of the cab. Then use fuel line to connect to the other steel lines.
While your at it, I'd get a 91-95 valve cover. It update the CCV tubes and use the newr ones (00-up). Look on Mad-XJ for a writeup. Get rid of a lot of clutter and I think performs better. Or you could adapt a PVC vavle to the rear on you valve cover.
Tom
i've been reading posts on swapping out renix to ho engines. my ?? is more about an entire engine and accesory swap. perhaps I read it and it's so late my head is swimming, but I might have a 87 comanche available to me due to an accident with my 94 xj which has body damage. the xj has a 97 4.0 and a ax-15.
my ?? is more about an entire swap rather than just a head swap. I would assume that i could just take out all neccesary parts from the xj and swap into the mj or is this a huge hassle. I have all the parts and would assume it's a simple issue of just taking my time and marking all my connections and using the obd1 system and harness and taking out the renix and pre ho engine. the renix has an auto and the ho has a manual. regardless am I wrong in assuming that all I need to do is swap out the assesories and engine/tranny??? seems that it might take time, but would not be difficult since I already have all the parts and the xj is running great minus the rear end damage to the body. and I know the 97 will pass deq.
thanks in advance for any help. if you need more info that i failed to post just let me know.
my ?? is more about an entire swap rather than just a head swap. I would assume that i could just take out all neccesary parts from the xj and swap into the mj or is this a huge hassle. I have all the parts and would assume it's a simple issue of just taking my time and marking all my connections and using the obd1 system and harness and taking out the renix and pre ho engine. the renix has an auto and the ho has a manual. regardless am I wrong in assuming that all I need to do is swap out the assesories and engine/tranny??? seems that it might take time, but would not be difficult since I already have all the parts and the xj is running great minus the rear end damage to the body. and I know the 97 will pass deq.
thanks in advance for any help. if you need more info that i failed to post just let me know.
You could do a complete swap of engine, tranny and electronics. I think they changed the body and dash in '97. I think you would need to cut out the brackets from the '97 and weld them into the '87. Also, you would need the trans cross member from the '97.acrid said:
Tom
75SV1 said:
actually the body was a 94, so then, from what you are saying it would be a straight swap, the only thing thats a 97 is the engine and I know that was a straight swap into the 94 minus electronics and some small changes to the belt routing, everything is 94 but the engine... still has obdI...
thanks for the info....
Sounds like it should be. I think the tranny cross member should also be a direct swap. There is a difference between the Renix (87-90) and HO (91-95) cross members and also the transmission mounts. I think the holes in the body are the same place. A direct swap would be the simplest thing to do. Also, the legalest too.acrid said:
Tom
Overdriven
NAXJA Member #1020
- Location
- Dayton, Ohio
I hydrolocked my renix about 2 years ago and did the HO swap. Moved a 91 engine, head, intake into my 88 XJ. I used a pacesetter header and all accessories from my 88. I also put in 21lb injectors from a mustang in when I did the swap.
One thing I have fought with is that it runs too rich. I'm not entirely sure why. One thing I'm not sure about is my IAC. What would happen if I was using the IAC from the HO with my renix electronics?
One thing I have fought with is that it runs too rich. I'm not entirely sure why. One thing I'm not sure about is my IAC. What would happen if I was using the IAC from the HO with my renix electronics?
Slo-Sho
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The 2nd most regulated state.
I have a 99 IAC on my 90, just had to splice the connector. If it's running rich I would check/replace the oxygen sensor and coolant temp sensor.
The injectors might be a bit much for that setup. There are adjustable IAC(??). Look at this website:Overdriven said:
http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/
There should be plans on how to build your own and probably how to adjust it. The stroker guys use these a lot. That is if you O2 sensors and such check out OK.
Tom
Muad'Dib
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bend, Oregon
I defeintly think the 24lb injectors are too much. You should only be using those if you have a stroker. 19lb is what you need, then your rich condition will go away.
Overdriven
NAXJA Member #1020
- Location
- Dayton, Ohio
I typed it wrong. I have the orange top fuel injectors... 19lbs...right? At least that's what I was led to believe. I have a set of 24lb for when I build a stroker in my garage.
Thanks for the link. I'm going to build the adjustable MAP that go-jeep and Dr Dino developed. May just go back to stock injectors if nothing else.
Thanks for the link. I'm going to build the adjustable MAP that go-jeep and Dr Dino developed. May just go back to stock injectors if nothing else.
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