THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

What do you ***s think I should build for a rear end for the Nova? Its got the stronger 8.5 10 bolt now that I think I wanna reused and build up. 12 bolts are just too much money and even finding a truck version to cut down will still cost moneys. Do I build a 9"? I was hoping to stay all GM stuff.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

What do you ***s think I should build for a rear end for the Nova? Its got the stronger 8.5 10 bolt now that I think I wanna reused and build up. 12 bolts are just too much money and even finding a truck version to cut down will still cost moneys. Do I build a 9"? I was hoping to stay all GM stuff.

Dana 60-2? Same center as every other 60. Fairly light housing, uses regular ol' dana 44 outer bearings and seals. Get some 35 spline alloys with your lug pattern and it should be set for life.
 
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Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I thought about a SF 60. I guess Dana parts are fine, I just wanna kinda not do the normal 9" like everybody else. FF 14b is out because the hubs are too big. The SF 14b's are kinda gay.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

What do you ***s think I should build for a rear end for the Nova? Its got the stronger 8.5 10 bolt now that I think I wanna reused and build up. 12 bolts are just too much money and even finding a truck version to cut down will still cost moneys. Do I build a 9"? I was hoping to stay all GM stuff.

If you don't run sticky tires you'll be fine.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Yeah naybe the 7.5 and 8.2" versions, but my 8.5" is supposed to have a 12b sized pinion. I'm buying a posi anyways so I can also go to 30 spline too, alloy shafts are cheap enough that I was gonna do them anyways.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Yeah naybe the 7.5 and 8.2" versions, but my 8.5" is supposed to have a 12b sized pinion. I'm buying a posi anyways so I can also go to 30 spline too, alloy shafts are cheap enough that I was gonna do them anyways.

How fast are you looking to go? LS right? Stick? Drag radials?

The 8.5s are pretty dam strong when built right. For reference Grand Nationals run those stock and with good axles (stock are 28 in yours and the GN) and a good carrier they go in the 9s @ 3400lbs. B-Body's (Caprice,Impala SS) run a 30 spline setup and with gears and axles they go low 11/s high 10s @4100lbs empty.

I ran a 8.5 10 bolt with an Eaton, 30 spline moser axles, and 4.56 motives in my monte, it went 11.50s @ 3500lbs all day. That rear is now in my dads car with a lot less gear.

When I built my brothers Nova, I had a 8.5 with Strange axles and GM gears in front of a 525hp 468 I put together. I only ran street tires and beat BFG drag radials and it had no issue.

The downfall with any GM rear (besides the 12bolt/10 bolt olds setup) is c-clip axles. If I were going thru the effort of putting ford ends on it I'd just buy a 9 inch housing. 60s eat up a lot of power and are heavy for a car. An 8.5 with gears, axles, housing ends, and a good carrier will do fine. But honestly doing a 9 inch will most likely be cheaper.

12bolts are over rated personally, people want retarded money for them and the ring gear isn't much larger than a 8.5 anyways.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

How fast are you looking to go? LS right? Stick? Drag radials?

400-450ish RWHP, T56 6spd, 4.10's, plain jane street tires for now, getting a 4 link rear. Everything I see says it should be fine, I'd toss alloys in it too. 4th gen F-body discs, good posi, etc. I just wanna abuse it and not worry.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

you really need all that just to drive a 1/4 mile (at the speed limit) to the bass pro meets?

Living life 1/4 mile at a time.

For those 25 seconds, I feel free...
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

said that to a girl at work, she thought i was calling her fat:laugh:
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

not that any of you really care, but i've been reading into the electronic system on the rover... its actually pretty cool. they have all sorts of self-test and diagnostic modes and can bypass the input wiring, and power a relay/accessory directly without any user input. this way you can see if the accessory itself has failed, or if there is a wiring fault somewhere.
 
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