THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

yeah...i was just thinking about how my truck probably isn't too warm today. I don't need to leave for another 20min, I think I might go start it now haha
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Do you guys trucks not warm up fast enough?

Mine gets up to temp after about 10-15 minutes of driving.

Used to take forever before I did a thermostat.

EDIT: But yes I plan on plugging my truck in too :laugh:
 
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Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

yeah, mine warms up and starts blowing heat out after 10-15mins too. problem is my drive is obly 15mins to work so its chilly for most of it. it has no trouble starting and I let it run for like 10mins before I leave
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I'm trying. np241 is all cut up and ready to be welded.

one weekend im just gonna GSD and work on my truck at work.

finish frame plating, all new drivetrain, driveshafts, belly pan, paint all my bare metal I havent touched yet.

oh yea, whered u get your driveshaft parts from colin?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Fresno Driveline

Not sure how your t-case is gonna be setup, but I bought the 32 spline flanges from High Angle for my NP205.

I bought everything I needed to build 2 1350 CV shafts. I made sure all the tube ends I purchased were for 1.75" ID tubing. This way I could get a 2" OD front driveshaft (for clearance issues) and a low profile 1/4" wall rear driveshaft (2.250 x .250).

If you don't have clearance issues or anything, you could try getting a Superduty front driveshaft. They were 1350 CVs and I think some were made for CV yokes instead of flanges.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Fresno Driveline

Not sure how your t-case is gonna be setup, but I bought the 32 spline flanges from High Angle for my NP205.

I bought everything I needed to build 2 1350 CV shafts. I made sure all the tube ends I purchased were for 1.75" ID tubing. This way I could get a 2" OD front driveshaft (for clearance issues) and a low profile 1/4" wall rear driveshaft (2.250 x .250).

If you don't have clearance issues or anything, you could try getting a Superduty front driveshaft. They were 1350 CVs and I think some were made for CV yokes instead of flanges.

I already have a 1350 dual cardan yoke (like a stock xj front driveshaft yoke) for my rear, so I'll probably work with that.

in front i have that 4 bolt flange thing, which I can bolt a 1350 flange adapter to.

clearance definately isn't an issue in the back. My current shaft is like 5" in diameter. But i'll probably go with something smaller anyway.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Which flange do you have on the front? Saginaw or Ford?

Ford has a 2" pilot. Saginaw is a 3". That will dictate what you can use.

I wanted something smaller in the rear just so it's not on the rocks all the time.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Which flange do you have on the front? Saginaw or Ford?

Ford has a 2" pilot. Saginaw is a 3". That will dictate what you can use.

I wanted something smaller in the rear just so it's not on the rocks all the time.

whatever is chevy lol.

99 this thursday anyone?

i was just thinking about that. If someone up there wants to weld up my transfer case (fartsmello?) i'll be 100% down.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I doubt I can make Thurs. Maybe, but prob not.

I brought home over 100 gal of veggie oil for my garage. I'm trying to rig up a pre-heating system for it, like a coolant line running through it (like trucks do) or an in-line heater.

Right now, the winning idea is a crock pot full of oil heated to 180* F ish with the filter housing and a coil of fuel line running through it on the way to the burner.

I have enough fuel that I plan to run the heat out there all winter long, even if just to keep it at 50-55*. The only flaw in this plan, that I see, is how much electricity will the crock pot draw? I doubt it will raise my bill by $20, but I do expect to notice a difference.
 
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