THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I want to leave work... I'd rather be welding.

Oh well, I suppose I will use this time to plan out my lift now, I gotta figure out how to use those relocation brackets once I get them..

On that note, I understand the physics of how shackles work, but I am kinda having a tough time understanding why angling the shackle is better. I understand that it would flex easier... but at the same time I feel like a versicle shackle wouldn't lose very much 'ease of flex'. :dunno: It's probably covered in a thread here somewhere, but I am lazy today and got work to do. I wish this damn program would just work :flamemad:

Well i am lazy... and I already spent all morning trying to find info on the 2500 front end swap. seems that the 2500 parts arent available anymore?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

themangeraaad said:
On that note, I understand the physics of how shackles work, but I am kinda having a tough time understanding why angling the shackle is better. I understand that it would flex easier... but at the same time I feel like a versicle shackle wouldn't lose very much 'ease of flex'. :dunno: It's probably covered in a thread here somewhere, but I am lazy
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Well you don't want the shackle straight up and down other wise it will be much less likely to pivot since force is exerted upward and if it's at a 90* angle it will just push up at the shackle bolt. Most people say 45* is ideal but that's probably a kind of arbitrary number. I'm sure 45 is good because it's in the middle of it's range of movement but as long as it as a little bit of angle rather than straight up and down you're pretty good I think.

But i'm no engineer :dunno:
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Everytime I hear the Molson Beer commercial on the radio, I think of Adam & Travis.

"Mali kaliki Molson shooby dooooby doo"
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

bfr128lftg.jpg
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Begster said:
Loctite also makes adhesives.
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I absolutely love their Power Grab double face tape, it seems to be stronger than the stuff Jeep used to install trim/emblems and is pretty cheap.

RCman said:
Ahh, why do small metric woodruff keys need to be so blasted expensive?
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How hard is it to make them in a vertical mill? I imagine cutting the rounded side would be difficult. Actually, a friend of mine is working on CNC-izing his mini mill (the ones with like 6" travel on each plane) so I'll have to ask him how hard it'd be to make a bunch of various sizes. He uses a motor driver we built using STMicroelectronics L297 and L298 chips, a bunch of International Rectifier MOSFETs, and a laptop running linux.

xjlongo said:
I really cant express the anger i have towards the stupid drivers that insist on tailgating and being total @$$%^&*$ that drive among us everyday :firedevil
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Use your factory-installed rear washer fluid squirtgun

scully said:
ken just took off.
got the blinkers working,and figured out the previous owner really loves duct tape.
especially on non-soldered connections.
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:scared: yeah that whole Jeep makes me want to rip every single wire out and then install a brand new wiring harness. If only there was an easy/cheap way to get a new harness...

themangeraaad said:
On that note, I understand the physics of how shackles work, but I am kinda having a tough time understanding why angling the shackle is better. I understand that it would flex easier... but at the same time I feel like a versicle shackle wouldn't lose very much 'ease of flex'. :dunno:
Click to expand...
Here's where I stick my head up my ass and act like I know what I'm talking about... I *think* the best position for the shackle at ride height would be perpendicular to the end of the leaf spring, because that way it can swing as far as possible back and forward (and the leaf has the most leverage to twist the bushings) before running out of space. That's assuming there isn't a shackle box around it or a rear crossmember to run into though. I could be way wrong on this, that's just what makes sense to me thinking about it.

PS - Colin thanks for the heads up on the grand marquis flange adapter, got one this morning. Between the mini flame wrench and the hydro jack I had it out from under the junker in 30min. Can't beat 10 bucks and no shipping, cheapest I could find was 21+shipping online.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

kastein said:
Here's where I stick my head up my ass and act like I know what I'm talking about... I *think* the best position for the shackle at ride height would be perpendicular to the end of the leaf spring, because that way it can swing as far as possible back and forward (and the leaf has the most leverage to twist the bushings) before running out of space. That's assuming there isn't a shackle box around it or a rear crossmember to run into though. I could be way wrong on this, that's just what makes sense to me thinking about it.
Click to expand...

You have to remember the other side of the spring is "hard mounted" so the leaf is traveling backwards it's just flattening out therefore "lengthening." It's not a matter of giving it the most room to move since it's only going to need so much before the leaf is flat.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

cmelo said:
Well you don't want the shackle straight up and down other wise it will be much less likely to pivot since force is exerted upward and if it's at a 90* angle it will just push up at the shackle bolt. Most people say 45* is ideal but that's probably a kind of arbitrary number. I'm sure 45 is good because it's in the middle of it's range of movement but as long as it as a little bit of angle rather than straight up and down you're pretty good I think.

But i'm no engineer :dunno:
Click to expand...

Well i am an engineer and I still don't know what to think.. :laugh: I may be electrical/computer engineering but I started out as mechanical (changed when I decided computer/electrical was a bit more of a challenge and there were less people doing it, so less people means less people to compete for a job with, plus I figured mechanical stuff was my hobby so I would do something else for a change :)).

Anyway, yes I understand that it compress upward, but in order for a leaf spring to compress it has to expand, which inherently pushes backwards (and pushes the shackle past 90*). I heard some use 45* but I feel like that's way overkill. I would think that the most you would need is maybe an 80* angle. Giving a slight angle would promote vertical movement but at the same time give a good amount of horizontal travel. Regardless, I think I will end up using the forward mount for a bit of an angle.. now I gotta figure out if a stock shackle works OK with the relocation bracket or if aftermarket is required/recommended. :dunno: And I gotta figure out how much lift to expect if I use the forward mount. Sigh, so many options, so much money to spend.
 
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Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

kastein said:
PS - Colin thanks for the heads up on the grand marquis flange adapter, got one this morning. Between the mini flame wrench and the hydro jack I had it out from under the junker in 30min. Can't beat 10 bucks and no shipping, cheapest I could find was 21+shipping online.
Click to expand...

No problem man. I only heard about it through Adam as he has an 8.8.

On the whole shackle debate, I have gathered the following opinion:

- 90* shackle angle provides the most uptravel (to the point of inverting your spring) however it will ride like crap and not flex very easily. Also, you will only droop as far as your spring will go without starting to pull the body down with it as the shackle can not droop any further. I'm sure a heavier unsprung weight would help with this, however it would impose a serious arc on the spring depending on spring rate.

- 45* shackle angle would provide the best medium between uptravel and droop (since there is room for the shackle to swing down and swing up) and provide the easiest flex / smoothest ride since the spring as more leverage on the shackle
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

themangeraaad said:
Well i am an engineer and I still don't know what to think.. :laugh: I may be electrical/computer engineering but I started out as mechanical (changed when I decided computer/electrical was a bit more of a challenge and there were less people doing it, so less people means less people to compete for a job with, plus I figured mechanical stuff was my hobby so I would do something else for a change :)).

Anyway, yes I understand that it compress upward, but in order for a leaf spring to compress it has to expand, which inherently pushes backwards (and pushes the shackle past 90*). I heard some use 45* but I feel like that's way overkill. I would think that the most you would need is maybe an 80* angle. Giving a slight angle would promote vertical movement but at the same time give a good amount of horizontal travel. Regardless, I think I will end up using the forward mount for a bit of an angle.. now I gotta figure out if a stock shackle works OK with the relocation bracket or if aftermarket is required/recommended. :dunno: And I gotta figure out how much lift to expect if I use the forward mount. Sigh, so many options, so much money to spend.
Click to expand...

Just like you said it's expanding and receiving upwards force as well. Having it at an angle would make it easier for both forces to act on the spring. The easier this happens the easier the spring can do it's job. I have been told shackle angle will also affect spring rate as well which would seems to make sense I think. The easier the spring to compress, the less spring rate, the better your ride/flex will be.

:lecture:
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

MoparManiac said:
- 90* shackle angle provides the most uptravel (to the point of inverting your spring) however it will ride like crap and not flex very easily. Also, you will only droop as far as your spring will go without starting to pull the body down with it as the shackle can not droop any further. I'm sure a heavier unsprung weight would help with this, however it would impose a serious arc on the spring depending on spring rate.
Click to expand...

To further support the 90* shackle angle sucks debate I can add this with this information from Colin. Uptravel with leaf springs is always going to be inherently lame. I think it's best to shoot for a ton of down travel and just bump stop. Also letting the spring get a ton of arc isn't good either, leaf springs like to bend sometimes.

I also I can attest that having a proper shackle angle will improve ride/flex greatly.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

his spelling does drive me nuts but hey, that's half the internet for you.

Anyone need an 8.8 to 1330 flange? I've got one that I have absolutely no need for.

If no one needs it, I'm going to brush the explorer driveshaft down, spray paint it gold and purple, and trick-or-treat next year as a Jeep Pimp.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

i have a few pinion gears you could weld to the top for pimp caneness
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Oh yeah, I wasn't thinking about droop at all. I knew I was probably leaving something important out :banghead:

And like I said, I understand that at a slight angle it will flex easier, which indirectly translates to more flex (will flex more over smaller obstacles) and better ride (will flex/absorb bumps in the road better).

Hopefully the front mount location gives approx 45*. Now that I take droop into consideration I want 45*. haha
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

kastein said:
his spelling does drive me nuts but hey, that's half the internet for you.

Anyone need an 8.8 to 1330 flange? I've got one that I have absolutely no need for.

If no one needs it, I'm going to brush the explorer driveshaft down, spray paint it gold and purple, and trick-or-treat next year as a Jeep Pimp.
Click to expand...

You know if the need arose they do make a 1310/1330 joint, so you could still use that flange.
 
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