THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

yeah i know. it's kinda nice out so i see why. maybe i'll go give the jeep a tune up or something, it's been a good while.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I'm stuck in work all day. Got some work done on the jeep yesterday. Replaced a worn tre and changed the o2 sensor. All of 15 minutes worth of work but well worth it.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

yeah its nice here but i'm god damn exhausted from 4 hours of mountain biking yesterday and 3 hours or skateboarding friday night, shit finally caught up to me
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

So after yesterdays waste of time... today was a super successful JY run. And with that said, I am not going to any other JY unless this freetown MA place doesn't have what I need. My god was it nice. Vehicles raised off the ground, easy to get parts off, ground was covered in sand so it drained (no mud). It was wonderful. I ended up picking up:

  • backing plate/dust shield/caliper bracket (with still good e-brake hardware, even e-brake pads look good, and i know they work cause the e-brake was on when I started trying to get it apart :laugh3:)
  • rotors (look quite new, slight surface rust but so I will either give them a sanding or bring them down to the shop and have them turned)
  • calipers w/ pads (they look like they are still good, if not they are worth $30 each to me as a core charge, and the brake pads look new)
  • e-brake cables (well got the old ones, one looks OK but the other I cut since it was pretty bad already)
  • 10 lug nut studs (need ones that fit disk brakes)
They charged me $45 per side as a loaded pinion (axle stub assembly) deal :D So if the calipers are good then this was a steal. If the calipers are bad, this was just as much of a steal (if the calipers are bad I get $30 each for core charge, instead of not having a core and being SOL.... so technically everything other than calipers cost me only $15 party1:) Edit: And I got all the nuts/bolts/etc and wheel studs (need new studs to work with the disks), but that was all free.

So it's a $2 fee to enter the yard plus $1 'environmental fee' tacked onto the bill IIRC (these fees cover the cost of the steel/labor to make the stands they use). I got the $2 fee waived since it was my first time there. I will go back and I will happily pay the $3 per visit.

Pics of the goodies, click for full size:
 
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Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Oh, and can anyone tell me if there is a trick for getting that axleshaft bolt off a D30? I found a 98 XJ with the shafts at the yard and but I couldn't get the axleshafts out out cause of that damn bolt :( The Jeep has no 4wd linkage, no rear driveshaft (so putting it in 4wd with e-brake on isnt an option), no front driveshaft (I dont think, not sure)... So everything just spun. Any ideas?


Plus the only vehicle I found in the yard that wasn't on a riser was a V8 ZJ... and that was dropped in a muddy area. Not sure if it is waiting for other Jeeps to be moved or what, but it made me sad. I wanted a drop pitman arm from that and the front DS but I wasn't going to deal with it today, may call them this wk to see if they can move it or lift it for me next wkend.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

might be easier to pull the whole hub/ shaft still assembled together.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

redneckboarder said:
stick a bar in the u axle yoke and let it load on the knuckle.
Click to expand...
Tried that... the only "bar" I had one me though was my 3/8" extension. That folded over nicely :gee: When I go back next wkend I will likely bring something a bit more substantial.

xcalibur223 said:
might be easier to pull the whole hub/ shaft still assembled together.
Click to expand...
Good call... but at the same time I will still need to get that nut off in order to pull the shaft, and I feel like getting that nut off when the assembly is not in an XJ (or somethign to hold it still) would be a major PITA. I think I will try and break it free next wkend but if I cannot get it off then I may end up taking that approach. Not to mention I am sure I would get charged more if I did this, rather than just taking the shaft).
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I'd say if the hub is good and you're just looking to upgrade to the bigger u joints just pull the whole thing and slide it right into yours. You can then keep your current ones whole as trail spares that way you can just pull em if you break something and slide the spare right in with a lot less work. Idk what your plans are for them though.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

They are going on my rig as is, just to upgrade to bigger joints. I just think I want to replace the u-joints before I install them so I am sure everything is 100% and IIRC you have to pull the shaft from the hub to replace the u-joint. Granted I could pull everything, then install them on my rig, then pull the bolt off when it has wheels/etc on the ground to keep sh*t from spinning... but I don't want to pay for the hubs since for all I know the hub is shot. That's not a part I want to pay for from the JY. Maybe I will crack the differential and jam something in there to try and keep it from spinning. I don't want to put too much stress on the axle yoke and damage it.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

haha i did the same thing with my 3/8 extansion

and if you get it out hub and all just clamp it in a vice and go to town to get the nut off
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

themangeraaad said:
They are going on my rig as is, just to upgrade to bigger joints. I just think I want to replace the u-joints before I install them so I am sure everything is 100% and IIRC you have to pull the shaft from the hub to replace the u-joint. Granted I could pull everything, then install them on my rig, then pull the bolt off when it has wheels/etc on the ground to keep sh*t from spinning... but I don't want to pay for the hubs since for all I know the hub is shot. That's not a part I want to pay for from the JY. Maybe I will crack the differential and jam something in there to try and keep it from spinning. I don't want to put too much stress on the axle yoke and damage it.
Click to expand...

Ah yea don't blame ya for not wanting to pay for an unknown condition part. Just to let you know the hub doesn't need to come off to replace the u joints. It takes a little bit more handling bc of the weight of the hub but no need to take it off.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

that's assuming they have an XJ with applicable shafts to pull parts from... most JYs I have found very few XJs, and most seem to be earlier models.

Not to mention why would I want to weigh myself down?:laugh: I plan on making that a very productive day and even thought the 2x shafts may be worth $100... I don't want to pay that much

Thinking of it I should have waited for the all you can carry to get these brake parts. Fawk me. Oh well, this place was so awesome it made it worth paying for them now. Everything went so smoothly it was worth $100
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

And in other news, I now have my TIG welder back in my possession.

Unless Ross was smart enough to take all the internals out of the welder, and just gave me back the shell.....
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

haha, I believed it was possible after hearing it from one person. I have just never done it. I always pulled the shaft before pulling the hub and never took the time to check out how everything clears. Though now that I think of it the joint is right at the balljoints and the hub is on the other side... so logically thinking I should have been able to come to that conclusion.. But that requires thinking and this is a wkend. Now that I have done some thinking time to go back out and get back to wirebrushing the back plates and caliper brackets for a fresh coat of paint.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Quick question for anyone to answer to make sure I'm understanding this brake booster/ master cylinder upgrade. Ok so obviously I am going to need the booster/mc from a 95/96. From my readings that seems most compatible (going into a 94 btw). And I am going to need 4 fittings for the lines that run to the proportioning valve. Install and bam good brakes again. Am I missing anything here. I know there might be small modifications necessary to the rod for the switch and possibly use spacers on the firewall but just want to double check bc I keep getting confused bc a majority of the writeups are for renix.

Edit. Basing majority of my assumptions on this thread here. http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63067&highlight=booster Thread also contains the part numbers for the fittings.
 
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