The Great Locker Debate

[StylerG]

Thanks everyone. I knew that this was going to be more of an "opinion" type of question when I posed it. Some of you have asked why I am opposed to ARB and the reason is simple: I don't want to have to deal with air hoses, fittings, compressors, etc. It just isn't for me. Now that Ive heard the negatives on OX, I am probably going to discount them as well. I'm not interested in something I constantly have to maintain.

As I said before, I had a spartan in the front and open rear in my YJ, which I liked. For those that were wondering why I am opposed to regearing, I had a VERY bad experience when I had my regear done on my YJ. Ultimately, that's what led me to selling it and getting an XJ....so that is totally off the table for me...now and in the future. I simply won't ever consider it again. If I can't do it with 3.55 and 31's, I wont be doing it. 'Nuff said.

So, that leaves me the option of doing an Eaton E-locker in the front and and auto in the rear or autos in both. The Eaton is also some what expensive...as this discussion goes on, it's looking more and more like I'll end up with autos...if I keep my XJ that is (I have my own steering saga going on with it right now....).

I don't know what your re-gear experience was, but with anything other than drop in lunch box lockers your going to have to re-set your gears for the full cases that come with them (whether it be a True-Trac limited slip, detroit, arb, eaton e-locker...) which in my OPINION would be the same as a re-gear. So you really are answering your own question. You want drop in lunch box lockers. Do you want one in the front, sounds like it. Seems like the better question is, will i hate the way my XJ drives with a lunchbox locker in the rear. Read up on that question still many opinions on it-but that really sounds like where your heading.

 

[rockclimber]

Thanks everyone. I knew that this was going to be more of an "opinion" type of question when I posed it. Some of you have asked why I am opposed to ARB and the reason is simple: I don't want to have to deal with air hoses, fittings, compressors, etc. It just isn't for me. Now that Ive heard the negatives on OX, I am probably going to discount them as well. I'm not interested in something I constantly have to maintain.

As I said before, I had a spartan in the front and open rear in my YJ, which I liked. For those that were wondering why I am opposed to regearing, I had a VERY bad experience when I had my regear done on my YJ. Ultimately, that's what led me to selling it and getting an XJ....so that is totally off the table for me...now and in the future. I simply won't ever consider it again. If I can't do it with 3.55 and 31's, I wont be doing it. 'Nuff said.

So, that leaves me the option of doing an Eaton E-locker in the front and and auto in the rear or autos in both. The Eaton is also some what expensive...as this discussion goes on, it's looking more and more like I'll end up with autos...if I keep my XJ that is (I have my own steering saga going on with it right now....).

What scares you about air hoses with ARBs?

Most companies will give you the air comp for free or discount with the purchase. Once you have the air comp, it's really only a matter of mounting it. Other that that, all you do Is run the line to the locker and wire the switches like anything else.

If you are looking for a discount, call Robert at rwkhaus supply and ask him about zip lockers (yukon's version of the arb).

 

[Demonoid369]

If I can't do it with 3.55 and 31's, I wont be doing it. 'Nuff said.

I'll probably get some flak but honestly if you are staying with this, the factory lsd will work for you. heck there is even a mod to the lsd that should tighten it up also if ya want. I have a 97 with a 8.25 rear with the factory lsd and I've had plenty traction and grip off road. people will complain that the factory lsd sucks and cant do it but I bet most have never used it, I already plan to do the mod of the lsd when I rebuild mine, just food for thought.

 

[bobnoxious]

The only thing that needs to be reset with a full case locker is backlash...no pinion depth or preload

 

[Jhumphrey]

I ran Detroit True Track in the front of my xj with a trac lock in the rear through the Rubicon and had no issues. I recently swaped in a n 8.8 and plan installing a Detroit Locker. If you drive a lot in the snow and plan on having your wife drive in the snow and need your wife to have a vehicle that she can put the petal to the mettal in the snow to get out of a bad sittuation with good handling and relialbility then you should put in Detroit True Track front and rear.

Is the True Track basically LSD? I watched a couple of Eaton's videos about it and it seems like a combination of LSD and Auto locker (although you never get 100% of torque to both wheels). It seems to "determine" the torque needed per wheel and adjust for that. What about when one wheel is off the ground? Does the one on the ground stop spinning?

I don't know what your re-gear experience was, but with anything other than drop in lunch box lockers your going to have to re-set your gears for the full cases that come with them (whether it be a True-Trac limited slip, detroit, arb, eaton e-locker...) which in my OPINION would be the same as a re-gear. So you really are answering your own question. You want drop in lunch box lockers. Do you want one in the front, sounds like it. Seems like the better question is, will i hate the way my XJ drives with a lunchbox locker in the rear. Read up on that question still many opinions on it-but that really sounds like where your heading.

Yes, this is something that I am aware of. Lunchbox lockers are by far the easiest for me to install. I have read about the autos in the rear and it seems (like all locker debates) that its 50/50 on how they drive on the road.

What scares you about air hoses with ARBs?

If you are looking for a discount, call Robert at rwkhaus supply and ask him about zip lockers (yukon's version of the arb).

I've read many stories on various forums about hoses leaking, getting pinched, etc. I just dont want to deal with chasing lines because a hose busted a leak. While some places throw in a compressor (from time to time), others don't and thats an extra cost just to use an already $1,000 locker. No thanks.

I did think about a zip locker, but if I was going to go through the hassle of air lines, etc., I'd just get an ARB. They arent much difference in price and I watched the video from ARB where the Zip Locker failed unbelievably. They even say that it failed quicker and with more damage than the cheap Chinese knockoffs. Yikes.

I'll probably get some flak but honestly if you are staying with this, the factory lsd will work for you. heck there is even a mod to the lsd that should tighten it up also if ya want. I have a 97 with a 8.25 rear with the factory lsd and I've had plenty traction and grip off road. people will complain that the factory lsd sucks and cant do it but I bet most have never used it, I already plan to do the mod of the lsd when I rebuild mine, just food for thought.

My only concern with LSD is that when I was running my 8.8 (which had LSD), I didn't experience it being any different than when I had my open diff (dana 35).

So the story on my regearing experience and why I am not wanting to consider that again (plus it adds to my hesitation of anything but lunchbox):

I had a YJ with the dana 35, 3.07 (puke) gears. The PO had put a body lift (again, puke) and 31 ATs. I would always seem to have difficulty keeping up with other rigs while on the trail, so naturally, I decided I wanted to change my axle (8.8), install a locker, and regear. So I raked, scraped, and saved every penny I could until I had enough money to get all that done. I got the 8.8 from the JY and had matched the numbers to know that it was LSD (which I wanted since I wasn't putting a locker in the rear). My plan was to run it with LSD and then make the determination I wanted a rear locker or not.

So, after gathering the money up for this project for over a year, I finally had enough. I had the axle, all new parts for it (brakes, calipers, etc), brand new Yukon 4.56s (with master install kits for the 8.8 and D30), Ruff Stuff 8.8 kit, shock relocation brackets (in case I needed them), and my Spartan locker. During my saving period, I had been asking around about who I needed to see to have this all installed...after all, I know zilch about R&P work and don't own the equipment (press) to get it done. After several high recommendations, I chose the guy and the price was good. He had his own shop, was recommended, and seemed knowledgeable. So, once I had everything I needed, off to the shop she went for her transformation. I told him if, once he broke the case on my 8.8, if the clutches needed to be fixed to let me know so we could address that.

During the swap, I got a call from him. My rear leaf spring was broken and holding on by a thread. I asked him how the LSD looked and he said it was fine. Having saved a few hundred extra for this, I decided at that time to order BDS' lift so I could get rid of that dreaded body lift. That was installed and the rest was done. She looked great. Going to 4.56's, I never used 1st gear to take off...but thats when everything went wrong.

According to my GPS, my top speed was 55MPH (on a good day with no wind). I had had some other issues with the mechanic that done the swap (he gave the jeep back to me with no brakes, then when he "fixed" it, he had adjusted it to tight and caught a rotor on fire, so I had to fix all that too)...so once I realized that something "wasn't right", I took it to a mechanic I had used (and trusted) in the past. Why I didnt choose him for the entire swap in the first place was easy: he was backlogged on vehicles and it was going to take "quite awhile" for him to get to it because of all the welding, etc. that had to be done with the swap. I was impatient and it cost me.

Anyway, I took the jeep to him to look over it. Turns out, basically everything was installed $hitty and everything had to be redone. I mean everything. My gears were toast, so I had to buy gears and install kits for the second time. This was because Yukon refused to warranty them because it was "mechanic error" as they determined. I also had to have the LSD rebuilt because the packs were shot...another great thing. The story doesnt end there, Im just tired of writing. Even after it was worked on by my trusted mechanic, the YJ was never quite the same. To boot, the swap ended up costing me almost double what I had budgeted. A little over a year's worth of saving and it was for naught. I know some of it was mechanic error and some of it was just age of the vehicle...but that doesnt make it any easier of a pill to swallow. So...now you know the basic story of why I do not ever want to regear. It's an experience I never want to have again.

 

[Demonoid369]

My only concern with LSD is that when I was running my 8.8 (which had LSD), I didn't experience it being any different than when I had my open diff (dana 35).

What was the gearing and tire size? And how was the LSD condition?

I'm riding on 235/75/15 and a 8.25 axle that probably hasn't had its diff oil changed ever(193k miles) and I've climbed up slippery snow hills that 33" and open diff can't do, and I've made the tires chirp pretty good on turns and such lol I know above 33s a LSD becomes useless because of tire size and mass but for just a 31, you should be fine. But ultimately its your choice.

 

[Jhumphrey]

What was the gearing and tire size? And how was the LSD condition?

I'm riding on 235/75/15 and a 8.25 axle that probably hasn't had its diff oil changed ever(193k miles) and I've climbed up slippery snow hills that 33" and open diff can't do, and I've made the tires chirp pretty good on turns and such lol I know above 33s a LSD becomes useless because of tire size and mass but for just a 31, you should be fine. But ultimately its your choice.

It was 4.56 on 31". The LSD was all new. See my earlier post about my horrible experience with rehear/axle swap.

 

[XJ jay]

I'll probably get some flak but honestly if you are staying with this, the factory lsd will work for you. heck there is even a mod to the lsd that should tighten it up also if ya want. I have a 97 with a 8.25 rear with the factory lsd and I've had plenty traction and grip off road. people will complain that the factory lsd sucks and cant do it but I bet most have never used it, I already plan to do the mod of the lsd when I rebuild mine, just food for thought.

What mod do you speak of.

 

[TRCM]

So the story on my regearing experience and why I am not wanting to consider that again (plus it adds to my hesitation of anything but lunchbox):

I had a YJ with the dana 35, 3.07 (puke) gears. The PO had put a body lift (again, puke) and 31 ATs. I would always seem to have difficulty keeping up with other rigs while on the trail, so naturally, I decided I wanted to change my axle (8.8), install a locker, and regear. So I raked, scraped, and saved every penny I could until I had enough money to get all that done. I got the 8.8 from the JY and had matched the numbers to know that it was LSD (which I wanted since I wasn't putting a locker in the rear). My plan was to run it with LSD and then make the determination I wanted a rear locker or not.

So, after gathering the money up for this project for over a year, I finally had enough. I had the axle, all new parts for it (brakes, calipers, etc), brand new Yukon 4.56s (with master install kits for the 8.8 and D30), Ruff Stuff 8.8 kit, shock relocation brackets (in case I needed them), and my Spartan locker. During my saving period, I had been asking around about who I needed to see to have this all installed...after all, I know zilch about R&P work and don't own the equipment (press) to get it done. After several high recommendations, I chose the guy and the price was good. He had his own shop, was recommended, and seemed knowledgeable. So, once I had everything I needed, off to the shop she went for her transformation. I told him if, once he broke the case on my 8.8, if the clutches needed to be fixed to let me know so we could address that.

During the swap, I got a call from him. My rear leaf spring was broken and holding on by a thread. I asked him how the LSD looked and he said it was fine. Having saved a few hundred extra for this, I decided at that time to order BDS' lift so I could get rid of that dreaded body lift. That was installed and the rest was done. She looked great. Going to 4.56's, I never used 1st gear to take off...but thats when everything went wrong.

According to my GPS, my top speed was 55MPH (on a good day with no wind). I had had some other issues with the mechanic that done the swap (he gave the jeep back to me with no brakes, then when he "fixed" it, he had adjusted it to tight and caught a rotor on fire, so I had to fix all that too)...so once I realized that something "wasn't right", I took it to a mechanic I had used (and trusted) in the past. Why I didnt choose him for the entire swap in the first place was easy: he was backlogged on vehicles and it was going to take "quite awhile" for him to get to it because of all the welding, etc. that had to be done with the swap. I was impatient and it cost me.

Anyway, I took the jeep to him to look over it. Turns out, basically everything was installed $hitty and everything had to be redone. I mean everything. My gears were toast, so I had to buy gears and install kits for the second time. This was because Yukon refused to warranty them because it was "mechanic error" as they determined. I also had to have the LSD rebuilt because the packs were shot...another great thing. The story doesnt end there, Im just tired of writing. Even after it was worked on by my trusted mechanic, the YJ was never quite the same. To boot, the swap ended up costing me almost double what I had budgeted. A little over a year's worth of saving and it was for naught. I know some of it was mechanic error and some of it was just age of the vehicle...but that doesnt make it any easier of a pill to swallow. So...now you know the basic story of why I do not ever want to regear. It's an experience I never want to have again.

OK, the broke spring and the worn out LSD could be age, but the rest of your problem was a lousy mechanic, period.

A good gear man will set them up and you will not have issues. A good friend of mine does gears, and if his 3500 lb drag car can survive 100's of hard, wheels up launches with 1100 hp & 950 ft lbs in front of a GM 8.5" rear axle, then something must be done right.

I understand your apprehension, but in your case, it was the mechanics fault, and never wanting to regear will really limit your abilities off road.

And I had a tru trac in the front of one of my older trucks, and when 1 wheel was off the ground with a large load on the other, the one in the air was the only one that spun.

 

[sunburned]

I still wouldn't suggest a auto locker of any kind for the rear if you wish to have decent street manners, it will click, bang and ratchet on dry pavement and be a over steer queen on snow and ice. Leave it open, get a LSD or a E locker for the rear and Lunchbox or E locker for the front. Also no one says you have to do both all at once.

My jeep has been street driven for over 30k miles with a rear No-Slip in every condition possible. Mine hardly ever made noise and would chirp the tires only if I was making very sharp turns in a parking lot or something.

The only time the back end ever got loose is when I wanted it to. I could sort of feel the thing lock and unlock if I drove aggressively on the street, which normal people don't in a lift jeep...

Again, learn how to drive properly. Not sure why people like you go spreading rumors about how hard it is to drive with a rear auto locker. All kinds of people are on the road driving high horsepower cars with limited slips, which are basically the same thing and just as 'tough' to drive.

And I'd never waste my money on a limited slip for an offroad vehicle.

 

[CobraMarty]

And I'd never waste my money on a limited slip for an offroad vehicle.

I would agree with you on a 95%offroad/5%street vehicle. But on a 95%street and 5%offroad-mild to moderate, I would disagree, but that's only my opinion.
So many ideas and possibilities. Everyone's application and use is different, hence so many different opinions and viewpoints.

 

[cdrake261]

Is the True Track basically LSD? I watched a couple of Eaton's videos about it and it seems like a combination of LSD and Auto locker (although you never get 100% of torque to both wheels). It seems to "determine" the torque needed per wheel and adjust for that. What about when one wheel is off the ground? Does the one on the ground stop spinning?



Yes, this is something that I am aware of. Lunchbox lockers are by far the easiest for me to install. I have read about the autos in the rear and it seems (like all locker debates) that its 50/50 on how they drive on the road.



I've read many stories on various forums about hoses leaking, getting pinched, etc. I just dont want to deal with chasing lines because a hose busted a leak. While some places throw in a compressor (from time to time), others don't and thats an extra cost just to use an already $1,000 locker. No thanks.

I did think about a zip locker, but if I was going to go through the hassle of air lines, etc., I'd just get an ARB. They arent much difference in price and I watched the video from ARB where the Zip Locker failed unbelievably. They even say that it failed quicker and with more damage than the cheap Chinese knockoffs. Yikes.



My only concern with LSD is that when I was running my 8.8 (which had LSD), I didn't experience it being any different than when I had my open diff (dana 35).

So the story on my regearing experience and why I am not wanting to consider that again (plus it adds to my hesitation of anything but lunchbox):

I had a YJ with the dana 35, 3.07 (puke) gears. The PO had put a body lift (again, puke) and 31 ATs. I would always seem to have difficulty keeping up with other rigs while on the trail, so naturally, I decided I wanted to change my axle (8.8), install a locker, and regear. So I raked, scraped, and saved every penny I could until I had enough money to get all that done. I got the 8.8 from the JY and had matched the numbers to know that it was LSD (which I wanted since I wasn't putting a locker in the rear). My plan was to run it with LSD and then make the determination I wanted a rear locker or not.

So, after gathering the money up for this project for over a year, I finally had enough. I had the axle, all new parts for it (brakes, calipers, etc), brand new Yukon 4.56s (with master install kits for the 8.8 and D30), Ruff Stuff 8.8 kit, shock relocation brackets (in case I needed them), and my Spartan locker. During my saving period, I had been asking around about who I needed to see to have this all installed...after all, I know zilch about R&P work and don't own the equipment (press) to get it done. After several high recommendations, I chose the guy and the price was good. He had his own shop, was recommended, and seemed knowledgeable. So, once I had everything I needed, off to the shop she went for her transformation. I told him if, once he broke the case on my 8.8, if the clutches needed to be fixed to let me know so we could address that.

During the swap, I got a call from him. My rear leaf spring was broken and holding on by a thread. I asked him how the LSD looked and he said it was fine. Having saved a few hundred extra for this, I decided at that time to order BDS' lift so I could get rid of that dreaded body lift. That was installed and the rest was done. She looked great. Going to 4.56's, I never used 1st gear to take off...but thats when everything went wrong.

According to my GPS, my top speed was 55MPH (on a good day with no wind). I had had some other issues with the mechanic that done the swap (he gave the jeep back to me with no brakes, then when he "fixed" it, he had adjusted it to tight and caught a rotor on fire, so I had to fix all that too)...so once I realized that something "wasn't right", I took it to a mechanic I had used (and trusted) in the past. Why I didnt choose him for the entire swap in the first place was easy: he was backlogged on vehicles and it was going to take "quite awhile" for him to get to it because of all the welding, etc. that had to be done with the swap. I was impatient and it cost me.

Anyway, I took the jeep to him to look over it. Turns out, basically everything was installed $hitty and everything had to be redone. I mean everything. My gears were toast, so I had to buy gears and install kits for the second time. This was because Yukon refused to warranty them because it was "mechanic error" as they determined. I also had to have the LSD rebuilt because the packs were shot...another great thing. The story doesnt end there, Im just tired of writing. Even after it was worked on by my trusted mechanic, the YJ was never quite the same. To boot, the swap ended up costing me almost double what I had budgeted. A little over a year's worth of saving and it was for naught. I know some of it was mechanic error and some of it was just age of the vehicle...but that doesnt make it any easier of a pill to swallow. So...now you know the basic story of why I do not ever want to regear. It's an experience I never want to have again.

Did you sue him? If not, you should have...he screwed it up, he can pay for it.

 

[JTM]

I still wouldn't suggest a auto locker of any kind for the rear if you wish to have decent street manners, it will click, bang and ratchet on dry pavement

Are you one of those kids that doesn't know the meaning of throttle control and instead uses the throttle like an On/Off switch. I'm asking because the only time I hear or have heard any of my lockers is low speed tight corners.

Personally if I was just building a fun XJ that would never go larger than 31s, I'd pick up a pair of Spartan Lockers call it a day. My first locker was a D30 lockright, then I did an axle swap and installed a full Detoit in the front D44, and now I'm running the Detoit in the front and a lockright in the rear.

 

[Jhumphrey]

Did you sue him? If not, you should have...he screwed it up, he can pay for it.

No. I looked into small claims court. Here in TN, it was fairly expensive to file and even if I got a judgement, how could I collect? I pulled records to see if he had a business license (he didn't...city or state), all of "his" vehicles were registered in others names, and (in TN) you can't lein a persons home. So, I would've been out several more hundreds of dollars with nothing to show for it.

I know that the regear fiasco isn't the fault of material, but execution of those material is to blame. It, however, gave me such a bad taste I just don't want to even deal with it again. This is where I'm torn. I want something that won't fail me, but I also don't want to have this headache again. Just talking about this fiasco is giving me a migraine.

 

[XJ jay]

Are you one of those kids that doesn't know the meaning of throttle control and instead uses the throttle like an On/Off switch. I'm asking because the only time I hear or have heard any of my lockers is low speed tight corners.

Personally if I was just building a fun XJ that would never go larger than 31s, I'd pick up a pair of Spartan Lockers call it a day. My first locker was a D30 lockright, then I did an axle swap and installed a full Detoit in the front D44, and now I'm running the Detoit in the front and a lockright in the rear.

30 year old kid, and i had a Detroit in the back of one of my street cars years ago, good in a straight line kinda noisy around corners, maybe lunch box with more tire and half as much horse power may act different.

 

[whitexj98]

30 year old kid, and i had a Detroit in the back of one of my street cars years ago, good in a straight line kinda noisy around corners, maybe lunch box with more tire and half as much horse power may act different.

So you’re recommending not getting an auto locker based on a non jeep xj application?...

That’s where the term "web wheelers" comes from...

I ran a no slip in the rear for a long time when my xj was my DD going back and forth to college and it was completely streetable. You don’t gun it around corners and it acts just fine, maybe get a click every once in a while.

 

[DrMoab]

You are wrong. Being locked in the rear is much worse.

If I lock my rear in I can drive it on the street just fine. It hops around corners or chirps the tires but I can still drive it. When I had the Detroit I didn't even notice unless I was under acceleration. If I lock my front end in I can't even steer it.

 

[Boss Cherokee]

I have ARBs front & rear for over 5+ years now with no issues, I like being able to lock the Front/rear as needed or Not.

One thing I have not seen mentioned, If you drive in Snow/Ice automatic lockers tend to lock when driving causing all sorts of weird (Sometimes dangerous) handling issues.
Years back I had a Locked Ford Bronco (Detroit in the rear & Lock-right in the front) that got very scary to drive on road during snow/ice conditions, if there was any slippage the lockers would lock & the truck would drift to one side or the other, Sometimes the front & rear would go in different directions; I guess if you are using your Jeep for off road driving it does not matter much, but on road I was always worried about it drifting into a parked car!

Well, the benefit of having a locker and knowing how to drive in snow with one is you don't need to put it in 4 wheel drive, in fact you don't put it in 4x4 unless you loose forward momentum, hence your multi directional drifting vehicle! Yes I'm from Cali via Brooklyn raised in So Cal but I plow snow for the Govt. and rarely need 4x4. If chained with 2wd and a locker your fine! Your Bronco probably if it had 4.10, it had 4.09 in front, with 3.55, the front might of had 3.54. That can cause the vehicle wanting to go in different direction. I have a 4x4 van and my front is a D60 with 4.30. My rear end, which I have not changed yet, is 4.10. With my rear mechanical locker I drive all the snow/ice covered roads I need to get to work, (when it's storming), and only use 4wd when needed because of the drift. I just recently(1/19/2013) went thru some of our local mountain trails with 6-8" of snow. Not all was covered but there was dumped snow and snow drift sections that were any where from 50 to 600 yards long, thru gullies with steep climbs and descents all in 2wd in my van. 3 weeks before that I was in my XJ thru 10-14" on virgin snow thru the same area but needed 4wd both lockers and chains. Lockers are great either way, so front or rear is by choice. If I only had one I'd pick front because I can always unlock one hub or place it in 2wd high if I don't need 4wd. For me it works because I can pick from front or rear or all wheel drive.

 

[XJ jay]

So you’re recommending not getting an auto locker based on a non jeep xj application?...

That’s where the term "web wheelers" comes from...

I ran a no slip in the rear for a long time when my xj was my DD going back and forth to college and it was completely streetable. You don’t gun it around corners and it acts just fine, maybe get a click every once in a while.

I would argue that 2wd is 2wd, perhaps wheel base, tire type and size, vehicle weight balance and vehicle power would be a factor. And im hardly a web wheeler, just sharing my experiences with a auto locker on the street. Perhaps theres more factors to be considered, i apologize. There is no harm is installing a lunch box front a rear and seeing how you like it. There easy to R&R and easy to sell if need be.

 

[Locked98GC]

Living in San Diego and going out to the desert via state route roads, having a selectable locker in the rear is better to drive than the No-Slip. With the roads dry and with them being real twisty, the No-Slip did make handling a little harder, When I put the Eaton E-Locker (Ford 8.8/4.88) in and drove the road it was so much nicer to drive and handling was not as bad. I had a Loc-Right in the front low pinion D30. Got rid of ZJ before getting a D44 in the front.

Before the E-Locker, Detroits F/R on my 82 toy, LSD's F/R 68 Commando, Open F/R on my FSJ Cherokee. Every 4x4 I've had has been open when I've bought them. Eventually whenever I start to mod this XJ, I'll be putting 4.88 gears and selectables F/R just due to the fatigue of driving autos/welded through the mountains.

As for the steering wheel breaking your wrists, With the advent of power steering it's not to prevalent but with non power steering (power steering by arm strong, it's a pun) like in my Commando before upgrading, you definitely better have a hold on the steering wheel because it would spin when the tire caught a rock or something.

For anything snowy/icy roads, I would still go with selectable F/R, Detroit Tru-Tracs F/R, or selectable front and Tru-Trac rear. I'm from da UP so know what driving in snow is like.