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the best penetrating oil ever?

thechief86

NAXJA Forum User
Location
White House, TN
this stuff is frickin great. i was trying to remove a power steering pump and hose from a 1970 wagoneer, with 40 years of rust and grimey crap. i got the pump off, but couldn't get the hose off the pump. i tried putting it in a vise, then using every thing from line wrenches to vise grips, to heatin it with a torch, to freezing it with liquid propane, and nothing worked. i took the whole thing to a place here in murfreesboro on samsonite dr, and the guy sprayed this kb88 on there, and after 15-20 seconds, i took the fitting out with my fingers. holy crap, go buy some of this stuff. it's like $10 a can, but worth every penny. gotta love it.
 
I've never heard of that stuff. I use PB Blaster and Deep Creep and they seem to do a good job.
 
Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Tested to be far better than any available oil. Do a Google search for Machinist's Workshop magazine penetrating oil and you will find the same info on dozens of forums citing the magazine article. Which I cannot find online.


Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix........53 pounds


*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*
 
We used to use kroil at the shop, darn good stuff but very expensive! I will have to mix a batch of the home brew and see how it does.
 
We use Kroil at the sites here. have no idea how much it costs...but it's decent. for home use i swear by PB. Heard that a mix of turbine oil and hydraulic oil is fantastic too.
 
back from the "I'm not dead yet" file.

I absolutely HATE working on rusty/dirty vehicles, so I decided to "prepare" the '91 for any future projects and test this 50/50 mix at the same time. I knew I was gonna be changing axle u-joints and decided to treat one side and leave the other side untreated. If I had to sum up the results in a word, it would be "great-galloping-gobs-of-goatsh*t"-- that stuff worked wonders!!
I got so pissed at the untreated side, that I treated it and moved on to another project 'til the next day.

My application of the mix went like this:
-Berrymans fuel treatment (on hand and primary ingredient was acetone)
-generic power steering fluid (on hand and, well close....)
-use a wire brush and brush it onto/into threads of anything that needs to move.
-leave overnight
-brush a second application and remove nuts/bolts

no breakage, no strippage, no fuss, no muss!!

Never again will I spend for commercial penetrating oils-- this stuff is too good!!
 
Guess it's time to stop at Harbor Freight and pick up a couple of cheap pump cans for this stuff.
 
couldn't keep quiet-- it's too good. I actually made it a point to buy canning jars and ingredients (even though I'm not out yet) to mix it up and have it here. I'll kick myself if I ever run out and have to use that uther crap again.
 
I almost bought the stuff yesterday to make a batch, but I didn't b/c I was running short on money at the time and I didn't have anything to mix it in. So now I know what will work! Cool cool. Will definitely do it now.
 
Time to bring this up from the dead.... with a real world test.....

I ruptured the left front brakeline on my 99 Dodge pickup over the weekend (yes, it was abraded, no, there was no other collateral damage.) Considering that it was the original brakeline to the best of my knowledge, I started hosing down the junction block with the acetone/ATF mixture on Saturday afternoon. I also don't have a good place to work on the Dodge during the winter, but there is a good local shop a couple of miles away who got me in this afternoon after the brakeline came in at the local parts shop.

The results? The flare nuts came loose with 2 fingers, didn't twist the hard lines at all. Pretty darned good for 10+ years old and 274k miles. What broke was the bleeder screw on the caliper I'd put on last spring (I'd completed neglected to give that a shot.)

This stuff has a permanent home in my garage now.
 
I'll kick myself if I ever run out and have to use that uther crap again.

I ran out yesterday and immediately went out to get more ingredients-- in the process of pulling my rear bumper and installing a tire carrier from the salvage yard. It's amazing how easily mine came apart (treated) and what a P.I.T.A. the boneyard bumper was to remove-- I treated all the hardware from it last night and it all went back together like it was new!!

once again:

myth confirmed!!
 
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