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SYE + Driveshaft...under $100.00 (not 56k friendly)

I agree with the the hardware being sufficient. You do not want a hardened bolt in this application. A grade 5 bolt will stretch and still retain the part versus a grade 8 shearing and causing failure. Same reason grade 5's are used on many applications stock such as torque convertor bolts, motor mounts etc.
 
i am seriously considering this now

I found that the powertrain industries part # is 3103-27CV but did any one find out what vehicles this was in? To check the price at AZ and others.
 
i just got home from parts plus they called their driveline place and they said almost all turbo 350's have that yoke. They could get it for 90 bucks. Junkyard and me have a date tommorow lol
 
i dont have any pick n pulls, well one but they dont have squat. I have to go and hope the local guy has what i want. Cant even go in the yard with him. And he is an old ass hole, and i only ussually get about 2 trys then he gets pissed and wont go out anymore.
 
no no junk yards its crazy we had them all over in michigan but nothing down here. There was a old guy that had one near my house but he cleaned up and left.
 
Gojeep said:
You can also only use a stock front shaft from a AUTO if you have a AUTO AND either a D44 rear axle or a 8.25. A D35 has a shorter pinion length so makes the stock front driveshaft too short and a manual trans for the same reasons. Some ZJ front shafts are longer so look into that if you have a manual or a D35.
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So you can't use the stock rear drive shaft after you hack and tap? what? I'm confused...I thought I had it all figured out (yeah right) This is the first time I've even seen how a hack and tap is done. Good work Dave.
 
dneitzling said:
So you can't use the stock rear drive shaft after you hack and tap? what? I'm confused...I thought I had it all figured out (yeah right) This is the first time I've even seen how a hack and tap is done. Good work Dave.
Click to expand...

Of course you cannot run a stock rear shaft. The whole point of the exercise is to get rid of its slip yoke, hence the name, Slip Yoke Eliminator, and to be able to run a driveshaft with a double cardon joint which is more capable of running the steeper angles. You have also made the distances beween the yokes longer which also reduces the angles.
 
Gojeep said:
Of course you cannot run a stock rear shaft. The whole point of the exercise is to get rid of its slip yoke, hence the name, Slip Yoke Eliminator, and to be able to run a driveshaft with a double cardon joint which is more capable of running the steeper angles. You have also made the distances beween the yokes longer which also reduces the angles.
Click to expand...

Gotcha...thanks for the clarification....I wasn't totally thinking things through but thought I'd ask since there are people who REALLy know how this process goes.
 
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