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SYE + Driveshaft...under $100.00 (not 56k friendly)

this is frustrating. 9 pages of chatter and no concrete source for the yoke donor vehicle. my junkyard charges $7 for a trans yoke. if i can just figure out what these things come out of we could all finally have a super cheap but effective SYE. feels like the search for the holy grail.

guess ill be looking under every chevy in the lot. i could find on right off the bat or i could waste a whole day out there.
 
Ok, I have about 4" of lift on my XJ. I measure my front driveshaft length and it was around 31" from the bolt on end to the center of the front U-joint. I measured my rear driveshaft from about the point where a H&T yoke would be to the center of the rear U-joint and got about 32-33". The thing is, Im seeing pictures (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959008&highlight=slip+yoke+eliminator&page=9 post #133) in this thread that show guys with the front DS in the rear, with like 6-8" of lift and only like 1/2" of compression travel left in the DS. Can I run the front DS in the back? As is sits now, the front DS on my rig only has a little over 1/2" of compression travel at 4" high, so from the factory it had to be even LESS! What do you guys think?
 
do you have a stick or an auto? the standard transmission is shorter than the auto.
 
So I was talking with a buddy of mine today. He basically has a Chevy Graveyard and I brought up about the TH 350 and he said he just hauled a few in for scrap last Friday. However he does save all of the output shafts/yokes/drive shafts just in case. He just dropped one off from a 26 on 27 spline TH350. I am fairly mechanically inclined but when it comes to the whole SYE deal I am in a complete haze. I have absolutely no idea what u-joint size or anything but am curious as to whether or not this style will work for a SYE w/ front drive shaft from an auto XJ. If not I will have to go through the "graveyard" and search for a different one. Here are a few pics
scaled.php

scaled.php

Any help would be great!!!
 
thats not the yoke. It has to be a yoke that the front DS can BOLT to, thats a close-eared (or whatever its called) yoke.

^Post #245 guys??? Still dont know.
 
XJ_Otto said:
thats not the yoke. It has to be a yoke that the front DS can BOLT to, thats a close-eared (or whatever its called) yoke.

^Post #245 guys??? Still dont know.
Click to expand...

Beside the fact that it is not the Yoke that the DS can bolt to will a 26 spline work with the existing output shaft on my 97??
 
I believe that your output is 26 splines and the yoke will have 27 splines, so as long as that yoke has 27 splines and is the correct diameter then yes, it should fit. I still dont think you can use that yoke though, but Im not exactly sure why...someone should chime in with more knowledge and give you the skinny...
 
the yoke i have in front of me has 26 splines and then a gap between the first and last spline where a "27th" spline should be. If the u-joint is the correct diameter then couldn't i just run a u-joint style drive shaft? like i said previously this whole SYE thing is beyond confusing to me. I will check back in the morning as i am getting to "worked-up" over the whole ordeal!
 
Yeah, I see the gap in the picture. Looks to be a key spline slot or something?? I dunno. The thing to do if you really want to know is take off your rear DS and see if that puppy will slide on. The thing is, you have to solidly attach that yoke to the rear tcase output and get a DS with the slip in the middle of it, or else you have done all that work to end up with the same thing you started with. The thing you are trying to eliminate with the SYE is the yoke that currently slides back and forth on the output of your T-case right now, in stock form. If you look at your rear DS, its a solid piece from the rear pinion yoke to the u joint at the slip yoke. A SYE eliminates that slip yoke, and puts the slipping portion in the MIDDLE of the rear drive shaft. (look at page 8 for pics of this) On a lifted jeep this will reduce internal Tcase output bearing wear, and make for better driveline angles, etc, etc. Ive read this thread a bunch, and for some reason feel like its not possible to do with a yoke like you pictured or theres some little technicality. Your idea about running a Ujoint style shaft is ok, but something about that yoke wont work I dont think....HELP US GUYS!!!

And look at post 245 and answer me!!! ha ha...j/k. But for real...
 
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the idea is that the dual cardian joint (front driveshaft configuration) reduces the U-joint angles, and gets rid of the vibrations.
 
that yoke picture above is just a standard slip yoke similar to a stock rear XJ driveshaft. the peice behind is an end yoke which appears to have been cut off of a driveshaft.

see the last post on page 16 of this thread (post#240) for reasoning and some more info.
 
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Thanks guys for all the help!!! Well, last night I did some prowling around on some other forums about SYE and this appears to be the best place for info on this subject and you guys were a great help!! I will have to wait til either later today or tomorrow to go to my friends house and root through all of his yokes and drive shafts and hope to find the correct one. I will post pics up on whatever I find! Thanks again guys!
 
xjcruizer, you need to get out there in that chevy graveyard and find the yoke that bolts to a xj front driveshaft and has the correct spline count and post up what you got it off of.

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! FIND THAT YOKE!
 
Am I wrong or do I need a 27 spline yoke? I will either be going up after 4pm today or early tomorrow. He has some 50+ cars/trucks/suvs all Chevy and upwards of 200+ drive trains.
 
Look at my write up again and you will see what the yoke need to look like.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm
It is to fit a 27 spline output shaft but does not matter if one of the splines are missing and there is a space there instead.
The yoke must come from a transmission that had a double carbon or CV joint BOLTED to it from the backside. The holes will be unthreaded and have a flat area for the bolt head to pull against on the back of it.

SYE13.jpg


You can see the bolt heads on the backside of the yoke in this shot as they are not painted black.

SYE11.jpg


See how also you are left with only half the area that holds the first of two unis in place and the 4 unthreaded bolts holes.
 
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