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SYE + Driveshaft...under $100.00 (not 56k friendly)

Ok guys seems nobody can figure out a better, perfect fit junk yard DS to use other than a stock front. Well I used a 90's ford explorer front shaft along with this yoke. The shaft is larger dia. & bolts right in. Make sure you get the shaft before you cut the splines so you can calculate the right amount of slip.

I'v used this setup on my 94 XJ, 5.5 lift, 35's, 44 welded, trail rig for over 2 years with no problems.

I also installed the same shit on a 99 XJ DD w/4.5 lift over a year ago, & the dude loves it, "no vibes".
 
Kychaindrive said:
Ok guys seems nobody can figure out a better, perfect fit junk yard DS to use other than a stock front. Well I used a 90's ford explorer front shaft along with this yoke. The shaft is larger dia. & bolts right in. Make sure you get the shaft before you cut the splines so you can calculate the right amount of slip.

I'v used this setup on my 94 XJ, 5.5 lift, 35's, 44 welded, trail rig for over 2 years with no problems.

I also installed the same shit on a 99 XJ DD w/4.5 lift over a year ago, & the dude loves it, "no vibes".
Click to expand...

Sounds good but I think the reason we prefer xj front ds's is because then we only need to bring 1 spare for a trail run. Good job tho.
 
tkjeeper said:
Sounds good but I think the reason we prefer xj front ds's is because then we only need to bring 1 spare for a trail run. Good job tho.
Click to expand...

You have never wheeled with me then.... LOL!
 
tkjeeper said:
Sounds good but I think the reason we prefer xj front ds's is because then we only need to bring 1 spare for a trail run. Good job tho.
Click to expand...

Yeah I agree..I went out of my way to get a different yoke for this exact purpose

Ghost said:
You have never wheeled with me then.... LOL!
Click to expand...


Not sure what that means but yeah I know the ford 1330 joint is what would have worked on my truck but I would have rather made my truck more 'consistant' in it's parts than have one odd-ball 1330 joint amongst all of my other 1310 joints. I carry one extra driveshaft and one extra ujoint.

Oh, and i've never had to use them either so I don't think there's much of a strength benefit with the ford junk, and if there is it's not noticable.

And, if worse comes to worse, I can call up my buddy from the trail head and say "I need a front driveshaft" and he comes with a front driveshaft..not "I need a ford explorer driveshaft that is X splined, mated to an XJ slip end with matching splines, you'll need to take a trip to the wrecker for those parts and it's sunday so do your best"

And..third thought, I probably wouldn't even phone him, i'd just throw my front shaft in the rear position and drive to the wrecker on my lunch break on monday, with a tape measure, and grab a good one for 50 bones (CAD)
 
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Kinslayer said:
Yeah I agree..I went out of my way to get a different yoke for this exact purpose




Not sure what that means but yeah I know the ford 1330 joint is what would have worked on my truck but I would have rather made my truck more 'consistant' in it's parts than have one odd-ball 1330 joint amongst all of my other 1310 joints. I carry one extra driveshaft and one extra ujoint.

Oh, and i've never had to use them either so I don't think there's much of a strength benefit with the ford junk, and if there is it's not noticable.

And, if worse comes to worse, I can call up my buddy from the trail head and say "I need a front driveshaft" and he comes with a front driveshaft..not "I need a ford explorer driveshaft that is X splined, mated to an XJ slip end with matching splines, you'll need to take a trip to the wrecker for those parts and it's sunday so do your best"
Click to expand...

I have broken more then one DS on a run before. That is all. Was a joke for a while. Every time I went out I broke a DS.
 
Kinslayer said:
hehe well it's good you got that sorted out! what was the issue? crappy joints? Too much right foot? liquid lockers?
Click to expand...
4 popper in the xj. DS was super long. It would hit rocks before the tires. LOL! I have the 4.0 with dual t-cases. SO it is nto an isues any more.
 
Kychaindrive said:
Ok guys seems nobody can figure out a better, perfect fit junk yard DS to use other than a stock front. Well I used a 90's ford explorer front shaft along with this yoke. The shaft is larger dia. & bolts right in. Make sure you get the shaft before you cut the splines so you can calculate the right amount of slip.

I'v used this setup on my 94 XJ, 5.5 lift, 35's, 44 welded, trail rig for over 2 years with no problems.

I also installed the same shit on a 99 XJ DD w/4.5 lift over a year ago, & the dude loves it, "no vibes".
Click to expand...

It seems to me the way he said this means that an early 90's explorer will bolt right up using the same yoke you will be using for the stock front driveshaft to work. This would mean you would still only have to carry one complete front DS and it would bolt right in if the explorer one broke, or the front one broke...is this not correct?
 
the hard part for me would be finding a shaft long enough. I have the AX-15 trans, so I'd have to carry two ANYWAY. I guess I can find one off of a certain V8 ZJ, but I think it might be a bit difficult finding one...
 
Kinslayer said:
Yeah I agree..I went out of my way to get a different yoke for this exact purpose




Not sure what that means but yeah I know the ford 1330 joint is what would have worked on my truck but I would have rather made my truck more 'consistant' in it's parts than have one odd-ball 1330 joint amongst all of my other 1310 joints. I carry one extra driveshaft and one extra ujoint.

Oh, and i've never had to use them either so I don't think there's much of a strength benefit with the ford junk, and if there is it's not noticable.

And, if worse comes to worse, I can call up my buddy from the trail head and say "I need a front driveshaft" and he comes with a front driveshaft..not "I need a ford explorer driveshaft that is X splined, mated to an XJ slip end with matching splines, you'll need to take a trip to the wrecker for those parts and it's sunday so do your best"

And..third thought, I probably wouldn't even phone him, i'd just throw my front shaft in the rear position and drive to the wrecker on my lunch break on monday, with a tape measure, and grab a good one for 50 bones (CAD)
Click to expand...



Uses 1310.......Larger Dia., larger slip, most likely to be "STRONGER"......Ford parts less expensive in junk yard, can buy 3 of these to 1 "JEEP" part...... & yes, just throw in your front, it will still bolt in
 
XJ_Otto said:
It seems to me the way he said this means that an early 90's explorer will bolt right up using the same yoke you will be using for the stock front driveshaft to work. This would mean you would still only have to carry one complete front DS and it would bolt right in if the explorer one broke, or the front one broke...is this not correct?
Click to expand...


Yes that's correct. 3103-27CV, I got mine from Powertrain Industries 2 years ago for about $70 bucks
 
alright fellas, my CV yoke showed up today.
now i need bolts too mate it to the driveshaft.
what are the specs for the bolts or cap screws that i need to use?
 
wow, this thread is such a tease. i just read the whole thing hoping to find what vehicles that yoke came out of. we know the yoke exists... lots of ideas here but not solid info on donor vehicles. do we even know for sure that the yoke even came on some th350's? so far people have offered that these yokes "might" be found in "mid to late 70s pickups & vans, corvettes, 74-86 chevy or gmc3/4 or 1 ton 2wd pick up and mabe suburbans, 83 to 91 chevy and gmc trucks, chevy blazers and dodge dakotas". has anyone confirmed this? almost feels like a wild goose chase here. i would hate to spend $100 on a yoke i could get from the junkyard for $10 if i only knew what vehicles to get it out of. maybe ill get lucky and find one then post up.
 
this maybe a stupid question but why not just use your existing yoke and bolt it to the tailshaft? like a hack n tap just without all the extra parts or are you worried about how far the yoke sticks out of the tcase? if that's the case why not just shorten it like in the hack n taps.

i'm new to this and haven't reached that point in my build yet. i'm still working on swapping axles
 
shawnxj said:
this maybe a stupid question but why not just use your existing yoke and bolt it to the tailshaft? like a hack n tap just without all the extra parts or are you worried about how far the yoke sticks out of the tcase? if that's the case why not just shorten it like in the hack n taps.

i'm new to this and haven't reached that point in my build yet. i'm still working on swapping axles
Click to expand...

the existing yoke doesnt bolt to a CV driveshaft but thanks for playing.
 
shawnxj said:
ahh didn't know they had different size u joints for the front and back shafts
Click to expand...


thats not why. they both use 1310 u-joints
the reason is the front drive shaft uses a CV yoke on the front output shaft. the yoke bolts to the drive shaft via a flange.

this is a CV yoke...(pic just for reference, its not the actual Jeep part and its not the CV yoke used for this style hack N tap)
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/img...ferCase1310SeriesCVYoke26Spline_D300-1310.jpg

this is the standard type slip yoke found on the rear driveshaft...(again, not actual part but same style)
http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/TkoSlipYoke13.JPG

and this is what it would look like assembled...(altho this a HD SYE, the premise is still the same)
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/data/articlestandard/jeep/412007/464999/tomwood_10.jpg

to use the original slip yoke bolted to the output shaft, would create one hell of a challenge of how to get the bolt into the end of the output shaft. this is because the standard style slip yoke is not easily removable like a CV yoke is.
you cant get the bolt into the output shaft while the slip yoke is assembled to the driveshaft, there is no room to do it.
 
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