steering setups???

[DrMoab]

This is the set up I used. I forgot to mention one thing. It seemed to cut down alot on the turning radius because the thicker tierod material hit the sway bar mounts. I just cut mine off because I never ran a sway bar anyway but I think you could cut them off and mount them a tad higher and it would work the same.

Found this on another board this is my idea and all the part numbers I am gonna use.
Heim joints are the devil, I have been there and done that! Never use heims on steering or suspension parts unless your rig never sees the street. There are far too many better, cheaper street legal alternatives.

tierod:
Use chevy shit it is soo much cheaper and easier to come by... Chevy TREs are the way to go, they have a 1.5" foot taper that you will need to put into the steering knuckles and pitman this is not a very big deal.

On the passenger's side knuckle use a 1985 K10 blazer passenger side TRE with the hole for steering stabilizer mount, taper that hole as well. This will become you passenger's side TRE at the knuckle and the newly taper hole in it will allow for the draglink. ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod 7/8"-18 left handed thread.

Driver's side knuckle use ES2010R $23, 7/8-18 right hand thread TRE same taper.

draglink:
ES2027L $22 misalignment drag link end , 7/8"-18 left hand thread.

ES2026R $18 misalignment drag link pitman arm 7/8"-18 right hand thread.

You can get 7/8-18 taps from www.etaps.com as they are not a standard thread (finer then fine thread).

I found a bridge reamer that would to 1.5" per foot in the desired diameter I need, this was about $50 cheaper then a real deal 1.5"/' taper reamer.

 

[Mike L]

This is the set up I used. I forgot to mention one thing. It seemed to cut down alot on the turning radius because the thicker tierod material hit the sway bar mounts. I just cut mine off because I never ran a sway bar anyway but I think you could cut them off and mount them a tad higher and it would work the same.

I have also used the Snap-On reamer: R121. It is only $41.25.

-Mike

 

[offroadman83]

How about some pics of these steering setups???-------Kyle

 

[jjmat3]

YEah, what he said. and pics of the components disassembled showing the mods to make it work. Please?

 

[96country]

This is on a D44 front, but it gives you an idea.

 

[bradlyw]

thats the hover jeep


Brad

 

[BUCKYXJ]

did JD use 1ton ends? I just ordered my tube inserts and will be getting my DOM next week.

 

[doodahman]

I am running the Currie steering setup with a Teraflex adjustable Trac Bar. It is plenty strong, but I had to modify the endlinks because it hit at full lock.


----------------------------------------
'90 2dr 6.5" Teraflex LA / RoughCountry D30/D35 Open Diffs 33" MTR's

 

[bradlyw]

did JD use 1ton ends? I just ordered my tube inserts and will be getting my DOM next week.

yes, he did... he also bent one if i do recall

Brad

 

[12monkeys]

I also run the currie setup and i have to say that it is pretty stout. I dont know that you will bend or break the tie rod or draglink on this kit. I have pics but i cant post them...i can email them to you if you are interested. sometimes simpler is better...

mike

 

[BUCKYXJ]

email them to me and I will post them. [email protected]

 

[Northern Pride]

This is on a D44 front, but it gives you an idea.

Whos set up is that 96country? They look home made, but very sturdy.

 

[BUCKYXJ]

Thats JayDee he is from Arkansas and its on a ZJ but yeah he is using the 1 ton stuff with DOM just like my setup is gonna be.

 

[JayDee]

Whos set up is that 96country? They look home made, but very sturdy.

That's ME!

 

[JayDee]

Thats JayDee he is from Arkansas and its on a ZJ but yeah he is using the 1 ton stuff with DOM just like my setup is gonna be.

Technically it's 3/4 ton. They're Moog 1985 Blazer rod ends.

 

[Goatman]

Alright its that time let me see your steering setups, let me hear your likes and dislikes, what would you do different? I am looking into the 1 ton chevy tre's using DOM, trying to decide on crossover, OTK, or histeer, what are y'all's opinions. also pics would be awsome. fwiw I am gonna be bending my own trackbar also. I will be running D30 front with 36x13.5x15 IROKS on Eagle Alloy wheels.
And save the too small axle comments for PBB.
DIG IT!

Heim joints are the devil, I have been there and done that! Never use heims on steering or suspension parts unless your rig never sees the street. There are far too many better, cheaper street legal alternatives.

oh forgot to mention: THE INVERTED Y SUCKS!!!
that is all

Well, those statements certainly are begging for other opinions. I guess you really have no interest in seeing other designs........like you originally asked. :huh:

I happen to like both inverted Y designs and heim joints.......but I guess I don't know what I'm doing. :moon:



Here's a few pics of my steering. The first pics are the inverted Y setup I had on my old D30. It worked very well, was decently high, and pretty strong. The tie rod is a stock style RE chromo, the one I had before I made this steering setup.

The second pics are of my current steering, an inverted T hysteer on a HPD44.

As evidence that heims in steering don't work for street rigs , this rig has been driven to work many, many days, has done the 7-8 hr drive to the Rubicon the last six years, did the 13 hr drive to Moab the last four years, was driven 20 hours to CO each of the last two years, plus too many drives to count to trails all over a 4 hr radius from my home.



D30

D44 hysteer

 

[OverlandZJ]

Richard, i'm having a HPD44 and steering built. Is there anything you'd change on your steering configuration if you were to do it again?

Mind if i copy your design?

 

[BUCKYXJ]

Well, those statements certainly are begging for other opinions. I guess you really have no interest in seeing other designs........like you originally asked. :huh:

I happen to like both inverted Y designs and heim joints.......but I guess I don't know what I'm doing. :moon:

Goatman sorry about that it should have been
Found this on another board: "Heims are the devil" was stated on the other forum I have no bad feeling about heims and have never ran them.
DIG IT! But I do want to get rid of the inverted Y

 

[Goatman]

Goatman sorry about that it should have been
Found this on another board: "Heims are the devil" was stated on the other forum I have no bad feeling about heims and have never ran them.
DIG IT! But I do want to get rid of the inverted Y

Hey, just remember to keep your sense of humor, especially if I'm yapping at you. :cheers:

One of the things about the inverted T is the potential for steering slop because of the tie rod twisting. This is agrevated the further the distance is between the pitman arm joint and the tie rod, meaning more angle in the drag link increases the forces that twist the tie rod. Having the drag link attach to the tie rod on the top rather than on the side helps, because there's less leverage. With a reasonable angle on the drag link, and with it mounted on top of the tie rod, you won't get much slop, if any at all. I don't feel slop in mine at all, but there is a clank sometimes from the tie rod rolling and the heims hitting the edge. There isn't enough movement of the steering wheel to have noticeable slop, but the noise is annoying, so I offset the tie rod joints on the knuckles so it won't move. This can be done on any setup to minimize rolling of the tie rod.

You won't get the tie rod rolling slop with an inverted Y like the one I did, and which some have copied. I like the inverted T that I have now, but I would do another inverted Y like that with no problem. I'd put a slight bend in the tube next to the knuckle to help the amount of travel in the joint, but otherwise I'd do it the same.

 

[Goatman]

Richard, i'm having a HPD44 and steering built. Is there anything you'd change on your steering configuration if you were to do it again?

Mind if i copy your design?

The only thing I'd change is that I would use the QA1 adjuster sleeve to allow setting the toe on the tie rod. It is a 3/4-16 male/female right/left hand thread sleeve that goes next to the heim joint at the knuckle and allows setting the toe without twisting the tie rod. I didn't know about it when I made my steering, so I made a bracket and used a short piece between the bracket and the tie rod to allow for adjustment. Go to QA1's website and look for double adjuster....it's a slick product.

Copying is the highest form of complement, right?