Steering options for a HP D60

[rockclimber]

Thanks.

I can't. I run stock backspaced H1s and wide tires and it just barely clears the top head of that bolt as it is. If I were to flip it over and the sidewall flexed I'd have issues. Good idea though.

well... that sucks.... might as well scrap the rig and start over :anon:

angle grinder+cutoff disc=bolt removed

yea... that'll be really easy and fun to do on the trail when he needs to replace something...

 

[Goatman]

High steer arms on the stock Ford king pin knuckles, using only the four king pin cap bolt holes are problematic. The four 1/2" studs don't handle the load well, lot's of trail breakage with that setup. If you use high quality studs and keep them torqued regularly you have a chance, but it's best to add something. That's why all of the aftermarket knuckles are keyed or add a fifth bolt. Also, the stock Ford knuckles are known to crack, the knuckles were not engineered to take all of the steering force on the top of the knuckle. The fix is to weld a thick triangle gusset to the knuckle at the top where they usually crack. I can't remember, but I think the weak spot is on the back of the knuckle at the top, you can easily look at it and see where the weak point would be.

Steering links with high steer arms are pretty simple, use what you like. 3/4" rod ends will get the job done, plenty of buggies with 3/4" rod ends on steering, but 7/8" is stronger. Decide on link design and build it at full stuff and the decisions will be easy, you'll know what needs to go where. Assuming you're moving your axle forward some when the D60 goes in, things can get tight under there. I have trouble making sure the pitman arm doesn't hit the tie rod, and the drag link and track bar hitting the pan at full stuff, and the tie rod hitting the diff cover, but I have pretty short arms and a very tight turning radius. Mine currently has the drag link to the top of the arm and the tie rod under the arm.

 

[bmyohn]

I am going to bump this thread up to the top rather than make a new one.

I went with Ballistic Fab high steer arms and the RuffStuff 7/8" Steering setup. it is all installed and centered up, but i dont not have full range of steering like i used to.

I am still using the factory power steering box and pitman arm. Is this normal? My guess is that since the high steer arms stick out so far off of the knuckle, it takes more range of motion from the pitman arm to turn lock to lock.

How can I fix this?

(yes i know, just go full-hydro and leave it lol)

 

[XJLI]

You need a longer pitman arm. A Waggy drop arm works.

 

[Ghost]

I am going to bump this thread up to the top rather than make a new one.

I went with Ballistic Fab high steer arms and the RuffStuff 7/8" Steering setup. it is all installed and centered up, but i dont not have full range of steering like i used to.

I am still using the factory power steering box and pitman arm. Is this normal? My guess is that since the high steer arms stick out so far off of the knuckle, it takes more range of motion from the pitman arm to turn lock to lock.

How can I fix this?

(yes i know, just go full-hydro and leave it lol)

Yes this is normal.

You need a longer pitman arm. A Waggy drop arm works.

Yes or you can use the inner hole on the BF arm to shorten the throw.

 

[Ghost]

I updated mine with a new custom arm. I went to a tighter BS on my H1's and the BF arm hit the tire but not the rim. Instead of cutting it up I had a friend that was a machinist build me one that would better fit my needs.

My Ram

Eventually when I get the cash I'll go to a decent diff cover.

 

[Vanimal]

I don't like the ones that keep the stock kingpin caps as they seem like they don't have a lot of material around the bolt holes. They could be fine, but I didn't want to risk it, especially with hydro or hydro assist.

I can't comment any further than that. I made my own from some 4140 stock.

I also had to mount my short tie rods from the ram UNDER the high steer arms so I had oil pan clearance with the ram. Still not the greatest clearance but it works and yields me about ~4" of up-travel, fine for most of the stuff I do.

you know you can buy that material pre heatreated to avoid the scale. it actually machines better IMO. tooling wrap helps too. looks good though!

 

[beakie]

how about steering options for keeping a good ackerman angle?
I have a DE 8" ram that I plan on running (full hydro) but really want to keep atleast a positive ackerman, even if it's not perfect (intersecting at rear dif)

my thoughts had been to use a full tie-rod in stock position (Ford D60 reamed from above so bit higher then stock)
and using the DE ram so that only 1 end attaches to the pass side on an arm that provides good ackerman.

still researching so I haven't decided on final lay out, maybe I can get a good angle with full hydro and the right arms and the ram as the tie-rod (as a normal DE ram is set up)?

any thoughts?

 

[RCman]

you know you can buy that material pre heatreated to avoid the scale. it actually machines better IMO. tooling wrap helps too. looks good though!

Yup, but scale didn't bother me on some non-show steering arms. Also, the material was pretty cheap. However I disagree on your point on machining; there is no way pre-hardened 4140 is going to be easier to machine than annealed 4140. There is a difference of probably 20 on the RC scale.

 

[Vanimal]

Yup, but scale didn't bother me on some non-show steering arms. Also, the material was pretty cheap. However I disagree on your point on machining; there is no way pre-hardened 4140 is going to be easier to machine than annealed 4140. There is a difference of probably 20 on the RC scale.

i've been a toolmaker for 16 years and have owned my own machine shop for the past 3 years, pre heat treated stuff is a little nicer to work with (i made tooling out of that stuff for years). you could have heat treated beforehand, you wouldnt have had to worry about it moving on you dimensionally when you quench.
try machining 17-4 or 410 stainless, or any aluminum (7075-t6 cuts the best out of any aluminum and it is pretty much the hardest), it definitely cuts MUCH better when pre heatreated. Chromoly is similar, just to a lesser extent. of course you need proper speeds and feeds, but that goes with anything.

not trying to take anything away from your parts, they look great, just offering some machining advice. they are obviously well engineered and constructed

 

[bmyohn]

You need a longer pitman arm. A Waggy drop arm works.

Am i looking for a stock Waggy pitman arm or one with a couple inches of drop?