jeep ride
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Virginia 25064
I ran 31x10.50x15 a/ t on 15 x 7 4 inch back space on my 98 xj with 3 inch lift with no issues.
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Starting my XJ overland build, need advice
- Thread starter SurplusFan98
- Start date
- Location
- NJ, U.S.A.
Mind if I ask why you say this?
Why would you want to be a red letter that is controlled.
Haha i dunno just sounded good.
I do pay so I can share photos. Photos are worth more to forumn than the ability to edit in my opinion, though part of me feels wrong for paying. I let it slide because every thing has a cost.
People do put in time maintaining and wading through my bs threads. That's why i let it slide
Through all the bs there is tons of priceless information aswell as motivation buried within naxj distributed by great members. It will be a sad day when platforms like this die and they will.
Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
Haha i dunno just sounded good.
I do pay so I can share photos. Photos are worth more to forumn than the ability to edit in my opinion, though part of me feels wrong for paying. I let it slide because every thing has a cost.
People do put in time maintaining and wading through my bs threads. That's why i let it slide
Through all the bs there is tons of priceless information aswell as motivation buried within naxj distributed by great members. It will be a sad day when platforms like this die and they will.
Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
- Location
- Houston, Tx
What?
smokeyyank
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Crawlarado
It was mentioned a bit ago but recovery points and gear are crucial. Also I'd consider getting a CO2 tank. Allows you to air up tires and run air tools. A pump is nice but after using CO2 to air up won't look back. Plus if you ever find yourself in a spot where you don't have power it won't be an issue. As for you LS in the rear, I had a 8.8 swap in my Xj that had the factory LSD, for me it worked great. Gave me traction when I needed it but does have it limits. Truthfully I'd keep that until you can upgrade to a selectable or a trutrac. My WJ has a lunchbox in it, it's not my daily so not that annoying but after a while that ratcheting is annoying. They are cheap and work great offroad but from a driving on road perspective they suck.
SurplusFan98
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- LA
Finally getting some time for some specific replies, so here they are:
I’ve lived here all of my life and I’m ready to explore a lot more of the country. Giving myself the goal of driving to Alaska and back is partly because that pretty much covers all the terrain I’d need to build my vehicle to, and partly because I just plain need to do it before I get too old.
So wheels and tires...
So as of right now, my thoughts on wheels and tires are:
31x10.5xR16 ATs max tire size, or whatever the equivalent metric size is. Want to stay with the ATs for the better road experience. Can rely on recovery gear for any bad off-road scenarios (and hopefully I won’t always be alone).
16x7 steel rims with at least 4” of backspacing are preferable. Will try to find some with valve stems that are behind the edge of the rim and somewhat protected. Not looking to spend the extra money for bead locks, so I went with the narrower wheel, and maybe the 16” rims will give me some more brake options. But, am I going to find any like these? I also still need to pull mine off and see what they are, though I’m pretty sure they’re 15”.
And one quick electrical question:
I’m working up a build sheet with the steps I’m planning to go through. I’ll eventually post it and we can discuss...
LA=Louisiana
I’ve lived here all of my life and I’m ready to explore a lot more of the country. Giving myself the goal of driving to Alaska and back is partly because that pretty much covers all the terrain I’d need to build my vehicle to, and partly because I just plain need to do it before I get too old.
Sound advice, and I think this is what I will do initially. I’m going to start making trips as soon as possible and get the gear part sorted out. Then I’ll look to how that affects the Jeep. We’ll call that phase 1. In the meantime I’m enjoying the build as a thought experiment...
So wheels and tires...
I tend to agree with this, but they’re also the largest tire I would ever buy. I’m looking to hit that sweet spot of performance and affordability, and I think 31s are where it is.
True, and I think its the largest tire I can run and still make the fewest modifications to stock suspension.
Ah, brakes. I hadn’t really thought much about brakes, but this makes sense. Are there any brake mods I can do inside a 15” rim? When you guys talk about the WJ Big Brakes, are you talking about where you swap in the stock brakes from a WJ, or is that something else?
So as of right now, my thoughts on wheels and tires are:
31x10.5xR16 ATs max tire size, or whatever the equivalent metric size is. Want to stay with the ATs for the better road experience. Can rely on recovery gear for any bad off-road scenarios (and hopefully I won’t always be alone).
16x7 steel rims with at least 4” of backspacing are preferable. Will try to find some with valve stems that are behind the edge of the rim and somewhat protected. Not looking to spend the extra money for bead locks, so I went with the narrower wheel, and maybe the 16” rims will give me some more brake options. But, am I going to find any like these? I also still need to pull mine off and see what they are, though I’m pretty sure they’re 15”.
I think we’re on the same page here too. I do think to run 31s, and load the Jeep down with a ton of camping equipment, I’m going to need some kind of lift. I’ll need stronger springs front and rear, and at least lower control arms up front (getting the WJ ones is appealing for replaceability but I might want something stronger?). But, I also want to keep as many of the stock suspension parts as I can for easy and fast replacement from basically anywhere in North America. I just want to get the most minimal lift in terms of height that will work for the weight that's being carried.
I think I agree with 31s on 3.55 gears. I would love to go to 3.73 gears, I think that would be perfect, but I also want to reuse my LS as 75SV1 and smokeyyank have suggested, and I can’t if I go to 3.73s. Plus, again, I can probably go to any junk yard in NA and find a set of 3.55 XJ axles, versus the 3.73 which seem much more rare. But is this small gearing change worth all the effort to go pull axles, etc?
And one quick electrical question:
Does this still apply if your headlights are already LED? The guy before me installed them and they’re quite bright. I don’t know that they’re drawing less wattage, but being LEDS I would assume that's part of the sales pitch.
I’m working up a build sheet with the steps I’m planning to go through. I’ll eventually post it and we can discuss...
maxbraketorque
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PDX
If you are going for a 31" tall tire, you might as well stick with a 15" rim.
In my estimation, the front disk brakes are fine for a 31" tire. The rear drums are ok, but I feel like there is too much front brake bias with a totally stock brake config. KL rear disk brakes are almost 100% bolt-on, and my guess is that these would produce stronger rear brake action and improve the bias. But for general trail work, I'd start with stock brakes in good condition.
I understand people's suggestion of running axles from an auto tranny XJ, but I think that only makes sense if you plan to live with the stock open diffs in those axles or plan to install drop-in diffs that don't require removing the R&P. If you plan to install diffs that require R&P removal (True-Trac or selectable), I kinda feel like you might as well stick with your current axles and install new R&P at the same time you do diffs, especially if you feel that the axles are in good overall shape. It can be a b*tch to find used axles in good shape at a good price.
In my estimation, the front disk brakes are fine for a 31" tire. The rear drums are ok, but I feel like there is too much front brake bias with a totally stock brake config. KL rear disk brakes are almost 100% bolt-on, and my guess is that these would produce stronger rear brake action and improve the bias. But for general trail work, I'd start with stock brakes in good condition.
I understand people's suggestion of running axles from an auto tranny XJ, but I think that only makes sense if you plan to live with the stock open diffs in those axles or plan to install drop-in diffs that don't require removing the R&P. If you plan to install diffs that require R&P removal (True-Trac or selectable), I kinda feel like you might as well stick with your current axles and install new R&P at the same time you do diffs, especially if you feel that the axles are in good overall shape. It can be a b*tch to find used axles in good shape at a good price.
- Location
- In a strange land
If your headlights are already LEDs then I would not be in a hurry to add relays. The LEDs may be enough less draw that you will not need to make any other changes.
If you do eventually find that your lights are acting like a Lucas Electric product, then revisit the decision.
However, on the electrical front, do take the time to make sure you have good battery cables and good grounding to the block and chassis. At this time in their lives most XJs have some sort of compromised battery terminals and probably issues with ground connections.
If you do eventually find that your lights are acting like a Lucas Electric product, then revisit the decision.
However, on the electrical front, do take the time to make sure you have good battery cables and good grounding to the block and chassis. At this time in their lives most XJs have some sort of compromised battery terminals and probably issues with ground connections.
One thing on gearing, as a bit as I posted, is the RPM at say 70 mph. Sounds like you are going to do a lot of highway miles. So, say you go with 3.55's. Or possibly 3.73s. If 3.73s check out ZJ D30s or possibly TJ. That is what is in mine. Mine is an auto though. With 31's for an auto that is basically stock ratio. The attachment to the lower control arms use a cam bolt. I think TJs use that too. Also, alignment shops seem to understand how to adjust them, and not the XJ's. I also have the Ford 8.8 with 3.73's.
So, say 3.55 or 3.73s, but not 4.10's. If you feel you might 'limit' your wheeling potential, then there are a few options. If you stick with the 231 TC, then you might consider 4:1 ratio. The other is a Klune 2nd TC.
Another idea is to also have tire chains. Just in case you encounter a lot of snow or even mud. I notice some at Winterfest, that had chains on. I got stuck in the mud, and came close at least one other time.
Edit: I should add the ZJ front axle is LP. I did check Car-Parts Inc. There were some 3.73 for XJs, but $$$ and scattered across the US.
So, say 3.55 or 3.73s, but not 4.10's. If you feel you might 'limit' your wheeling potential, then there are a few options. If you stick with the 231 TC, then you might consider 4:1 ratio. The other is a Klune 2nd TC.
Another idea is to also have tire chains. Just in case you encounter a lot of snow or even mud. I notice some at Winterfest, that had chains on. I got stuck in the mud, and came close at least one other time.
Edit: I should add the ZJ front axle is LP. I did check Car-Parts Inc. There were some 3.73 for XJs, but $$$ and scattered across the US.
Last edited:
