Spooled good or bad?

[Neil]

I welded mine in the axle. Just stuff wet rags behind the carier to keep slag from getting to deep in the housing. I forgot to put a wet rag on the ring gear and got some slag on it. Kind of noisy for a while. Good luck!

 

[Matt]

Josh89XJ, Woody, and the rest that have been in this converstation,
So now that I understand the welding of the gears issue, I have one more question.
So far as the backlash and pinion depth, it is still the same procedure to do both, right? Nothing in that area has changed I take it???
I really appreciate all of your help in this matter. Thank you all very much.............

Casper

If the carrier has the shims under the bearings you can pop it in and out all day long - just keep the two bearing caps to their respective sides (if the shims go between the housing and the bearings just be sure to keep the two stacks seperate and measure them after you first take them out; in case you bugger the pack up while attempting reinstallation) As long as you follow that guide your backlash and pinion depth will not change at all.

You may check the backlash before and after just to make sure - but there should be no change if everything seats like it was originally.

 

[Georgia Mike]

One other point of advise that I did when when we welded mine-- wrap some wet (not sopping,dripping wet,just wet )rags around the carrier bearings,too. This will keep any slag from screwing the bearings up. I don't know about the D-35,but the 8.25's bearings looked awfully inviting to the ol' weld boogers! :laugh: Also,I used CRC Brakleen in the *green* can (I think). Anyway,it plainly says on the can "Non Flammable",so get this to clean it out. It dries very quickly and leaves everything good and clean for welding without having to pull the carrier. Oh,BTW,here's a very informative,in depth article on diff welding--check it out!

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=16;t=000015#000000

 

[Neil]

Oh yea I almost forgot. Get ready for the BIG STINK!! Don't know? You'll know as soon as you start to weld

 

[Casper]

Neil, Matt, GMike, Josh89XJ, Woody, and those I forgot,
Thanks guys for the help. I will post a email when I finish. I really appreciate all the information.

Casper

 

[korda]

Another tip: Don't leave the pan of oil gear oil and brake cleaner under the axle when you start to weld. That was an interesting 30 seconds of my life.

I'm another with a welded 35c and I love it. I'm only on 31"s and I carry spare shafts.

 

[Matt]

Neil, Matt, GMike, Josh89XJ, Woody, and those I forgot,
Thanks guys for the help. I will post a email when I finish. I really appreciate all the information.

Casper

While we're all adding tips- if you decide to do it in the housing - keep the ground clamp on the carrier itself - this prevents you from spot welding your bearings in the races or your R&P to each other (ground flow will arc across the path of least resistance) - otherwise burn away

 

[Josh 89XJ]

Casper, You're thinking about this too hard I pulled my carrier out and did the job on the bench just because I wanted to be 100% sure that there was no oil whatsoever. The gears stay in place on their own due to the cross shaft through the center spider gears. No, I didn't put any spare axles in the side gears, I just stuffed some leather in the splined section to keep any slag out. Once you pull the unit you will see what I mean. The whole job is a piece of cake, just pull it from the axle and you will see what I mean. Good luck.

 

[Casper]

Josh89XJ,
I completely understand what you are saying. I can see that it is not that big of a job now that I have it out. I really appreciate your advice. There is nothing like having first hand experience on a job when you need it....... Thanks again,

Casper

 

[Georgia Mike]

Oh yea I almost forgot. Get ready for the BIG STINK!! Don't know? You'll know as soon as you start to weld

Oh yeah! forgot about that! uke: Burning gear dope is a smell you'll likely never forget

 

[red87cherokee]

Here's a picture of the welding that a fellow in British Columbia did for his D30 (welding only the side gears).

And an explanation from the same guy (Fozzy) on a Samurai:

http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axle/weldeddiff1/index.html

 

[Rocky]

I live in an area where icy roads can make up most of the winter, what do you think of a spooled/welded rear in these conditions? Anyone have any experience?

 

[T180081]

A spooled rear is a little more "happy" than a rear that can differenciate.

When the tires are locked together, the tire that has the most weight on it has 100% of the torque, if it starts to spin, say the outside tire during a turn, the inside will have to follow because they are locked together. Well when both tires are spinning and you are turning you go sideways.

When the tires aren't locked together the outside tire may only have about 65% of the ytorque while the inside has the remaining. So neither tire spins because the torque is devided. But in this system. When one tire starts spinning, the spinning tire ends up with most of the torque, instead of the tire that has the weight (traction). That is why open diffs don't work so good offroad and why locked diffs do.

A detroit adds shock loads to the equation which are not nearly as predictable.

So, advice is to drive slower and more smoothly and get so practice in a parking lot going sideways and counter steering. I do most of my driving in the winter sideways. It is all in how you drive it. I actually prefer to have my wheels spooled in the snow and ice.

Remember. Nothing has good traction on ice except metal spikes. If you are looking for better traction on ice, you may just want to avoid it.

 

[T180081]

Who has used Oxy/accetalene to weld gears in still in the axle?

I have used oxy with the carrier out and the bearings still pressed on but not while the carrier was still in the housing. I think it would be okay as long as you took you time and let everything cool. Opinions on this.

 

[Matt]

I would either pull it if you have sucessfully done it out of the housing before - or find someone to use a buzz box of some sort - Stick, MIG, TIG ect

I would be very leary of subjecting the R+P (and the bearings) to that kind of heating

Matt

(Just stuff it full of JB Weld if all else fails J/K )

 

[Casper]

No, I don't think I would even try it with oxy/act. I myself will be using my mig. I also would use stick, but the mig is much cleaner, hotter........................................

Casper

 

[Matt]

Here's a picture of the welding that a fellow in British Columbia did for his D30 (welding only the side gears).

And an explanation from the same guy (Fozzy) on a Samurai:

http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axle/weldeddiff1/index.html

Good write up and pictures - however every filled valley set up I have ever seen ends up as a pile of chunks in the bottom of the housing - you ruin the temper of the side and spider gears by welding them - they then become very brittle due to the heat induced changes - and now you provide a distance for these two chunks of metal to gain a little momentum (however small it is still a much larger force than two gears welded solidly to each other) and strike each other repeatedly You will reach the fatigue failure point at some time and then bad things will happen - you are kidding youself if you think that much play is going to make the front end turn any easier - by the time the tires are partialy turned you have already taken the slack out of the gears and now you are effectively spooled...

Sorry but I don't buy it Weld'em solid or run an OX/ARB

Matt

 

[woody]

"Another tip: Don't leave the pan of oil gear oil and brake cleaner under the axle when you start to weld. That was an interesting 30 seconds of my life"

LMAO another genius in our midst!!! Bless you Korda, now I don't feel like an ultramaroon so bad

Last week when pulling my 8.25 for the 44, the old brakeline wouldn't turn loose from the steel line...so we did PB Blaster, propane heat on the union, vise grips... strip, wait 1/2 hr and repeat.

About the 3rd session of this...I'm focused on that union mind ya...the rubber line swelled up and exploded. Got a real nice pair of scalds on the inner bicep and several specs on the face from that...LOL glad I had on my clear Gargoyles :dunno: but the fawking fitting turned loose real easy after that.

Focus on safety, people! Remember y'all don't have 9 lives like me. (and I've burned up more than a few of them doing this Jeep-wrenching-thing)

 

[4ward]

Woody, I figured you were on your 14th or 15th by now

Casper, have you welded this thing up yet or what. It's like a 30 min. job and we've been waiting a few days

As long as you don't let Beezil's mom at it, I think you'll do just fine.

Sean

 

[Casper]

Sean,
Sorry Dude. I was so excited about trying it out, I didn't take any pictures. I just hurried and put it back together and went out to try it. All I can say is, I should have done this along time ago. It works so great!!! I do get some tire chrip, but that I can live with. Although remember this is not my Daily Driver, so I wont be able to give you much information on how well it drives on a daily schedule. But so far as what I am after, WOW!!!!!!! OUTSTANDING!!!! I will be replacing some seals and checking bearings before Moab, so I will take some picture then................. I am really getting excited about Moab..............especially now that I have a cabin...he he he

Casper