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Spooled good or bad?

Casper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Payson, Arizona
OK here is my Question:
I am currently running a lockrite in my rear D35, non c-clip. I have been reading about many in the club running (welded) spooled rears. I have an extra D35 carrier, pinion, gears, etc. My XJ is not a daily driver anymore, and I would like to try a spooled rear D35. In the event of axle break in Moab, I have a replacement set of axles. My son ran a spool in his 89 Toyota 4x4 pickup, five speed and did very well. It was a dail driver. My XJ is an automatic running at the moment 3.55's. I have a set of replacement 3.55 gears as well. Can someone give me some advice on spooling my rear D35. I am a welder, have been one for over 15 years. I work in the mining industry and work on more critical welding than what this will involve, so I am not worried about the quality of welding, but I have never done one. Can anyone give me instructions and or photos on the procedure? Also, is it possible to use the lockrite that I had in the D35, in the front D30?? I am not worried about breakage in Moab, for no more work than it is to replace the axles or the carrier etc., I would like to run spooled in the D35 to see how it does. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated..........

Thanks,
Casper:anon:
 
I've been very happy with my welded rear. Lots of people will just be parrots and repeat things like, "Your tires will never last!" and my personal favorite, "You'll never be able to drive it on the street again!" Ok people....shut up.

I used to have a Lock Right and I wasn't overly impressed with it. After I blew it to pieces (note to self, when it bounces, stop hitting the gas) I just welded the rear solid and it has been that way ever since. I run a set of 34" swampers on it with no problems. Just today I was bouncing it around on the rocks and didn't break a shaft. The only thing I've broken on it since it was welded was today when I sheared off those stupid strap style u-joint retainers on the yoke. As a friend of mine said though, "Your stuff lasts because you don't drive like an idiot"

Procedure is really simple. I strongly suggest removing the carrier and doing this on a bench. Clean the spiders really well with some MEK to remove any oil that may be on them, I mean take them out and SCRUB. You're a weldor, you know what I'm talking about. Anyway, reassemble them in the carrier and just weld the gears together at the 8 points where they join each other. Take your time and let them cool so that you don't warp anything. Some people suggest welding to the carrier as well, but as a fellow weldor I'm sure you probably understand just how much fun welding metals formed with dissimlar processes can be.
 
Welded rear (spooled)

Thank you Josh,
I really appreciate your help. I agree with you on the parrot virus. And I also agree with the fact that if you don't drive like an idiot, your stuff will last longer. I am not a heavy mad man on the gas when it comes to wheeling. I figured it was welding the spiders, but I wanted to make sure. I don't believe I will weld to the carrier. Do you agree? I am looking at a picture of an assembled carrier (ring gear, spiders, cross shaft with the spiders). So that I understand you completely I would like to ask some questions if it is OK? I am assuming (boy how I hate to use that word), that you are talking about the weld points to be where the axle spider gears meet the cross pin spider gears??? Is that correct???

Casper
 
To the best of my knowlege yes...you just weld where the spiders mesh through the 'windows' in the carrier.

You may want to weld the axle spiders to the carrier also? :dunno: That would make it pretty much an 'irreversable' mod then, but I'd think it be stronger.

I'd advise to pull the carrier out of the housing, clean it off really well (2-3 cans Brakleen?) and bench weld it, but I reckon you could do in in the housing too.

Glenn Baker successfully welded his 35...and Georgia Mike did his 27 spl 8.25. Maybe they can chime in here?

As for towing it behind your other Jeep...I wouldn't worry about it one bit. It'll still chirp the inside tire in tight turns, but :bawl: it aint a Caddy. I'd suspect you'll be fine. Got spare shafts :)

I am loving my spooled 44 again...today is the first day in awhile with wet roads, so it ought to be interesting :viking:

HTH
 
The comment about "Your tires will never last!" is true, I have a spooled rear end with 38 inch tsl's and I have about 1000 miles on them and you can litterally see the tread burning off when you turn corners ( I don't think they are going to make it through the summer), it might just be the tire because the tread is pretty soft, I have friends with spools and mtr's and the wear isn't as bad. Just my experience. later
-calvin
 
I am about to do this soon. I have the 8.25 with 3:55 gears now and I am getting a D35 with 4:10 gears I am going to weld for now. That way if I break something I can swap my 8.25 back in. Thanks for the writeup. Any other pics on how they did theirs? More pics would be helpful. TIA Jeff
 
calvin andrus said:
The comment about "Your tires will never last!" is true, I have a spooled rear end with 38 inch tsl's and I have about 1000 miles on them and you can litterally see the tread burning off when you turn corners ( I don't think they are going to make it through the summer), it might just be the tire because the tread is pretty soft, I have friends with spools and mtr's and the wear isn't as bad. Just my experience. later
-calvin

Check your pressure - I run a welded front and spooled rear with 38.5 swampers - I have about 3500 miles on them and they still look like new - 4-5psi on the dirt and 32 psi on the road :rolleyes:

Low pressure on the road will let the side lugs slap the pavement and wear much faster ;)

Matt

PS - Casper just fill the valleys of the spider and side gears where they contact each other - skip trying to to weld to the carrier - the only benefit to welding to the carrier is to prevent side spreading (this is what kills most lunchbox lockers - teeth lash opens and then the contact pressure ramps up until a tooth shears, and the momentum turns the side gears into stripped chunks of steel - the loose bits get sucked into the R&P if you're lucky) With the spiders welded to each other there is no way for the carrier to experiance spreading forces (unless the weld fails :rolleyes: ) and then you have bigger issues anyhow ;)
 
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I agree with Matt. That's how I welded my 44. It's a DD and I don't have any problems. Tire wear is minimal. Take your time and don't get the spiders too hot or things can warp.
 
I have to aree with most who have posted that welded or spooled is great. Ya i get a little more tire wear but other than that it drive fine in every condition but then again maybe I'm just used to it now.
 
I just got back from a 120 mile road trip to Cary to swap Jeep parts...Tim noticed my rear tires looked slack, sure enough 15 psi in one and 20 in the other. I thought they were howlin more than normal :) Tim & Andrew's neighbors must love them boys :) BTW thanks for the air!

I agree that with low tire pressure, spooled/welded will wear out tires quicker...but in the case of welded...compare the price of a rod or 2 to a pair of tires, then price a quality locker... And in Casper's case...this isn't his daily driver anyway.

I needed a carrier for lower gears, so I went with a full spool. (and it IS my daily driver.) I'd consider welding if I were retaining gears that fit on an existing open carrier.
 
I'll throw in my 2 cents...

Welded/spool is certainly going to be much more predictable than a locker - no sudden locking or unlocking (especially true with a Detroit). As with any other mod, you will have to make some adjustments to your driving style. I'll probably spool my CJ5 when I get to that part of the buildup.
 
:thumbup: Definately the best mod for the money I've done to my rig so far :roflmao: Let's see........
1 tube of gasket maker-$3.00
2 quarts gear oil-$6.00
?? feet of mig wire and gas-FREEBIES! I did it at the auto body school while the other students watched in horror--and the instructor walked away muttering "Leave me outta this one! I don't want to have ANYTHING to do with it!!"

Of course,to the other students and instructer,too,I'm the body-shop's anti-christ :jester: just because I think a Sawzall is a usefull body-working tool :)

Now,I can't wait for the Lock-Rite to come in the mail so it'll be locked front and rear--YEE-HAA!!!!!!!! :laugh:
 
Thanks for all the info guys. And such that this is not my daily driver, I am going with the welding mod. Josh89XJ, I tried to open that site with the picture that you posted, but it say Forbidden. It would be great to take a look at what you did. But a BIG thanks to all that responded. It is great to have all of the opinions.......
Heck, I have all the extras, gears, axles, spiders etc.... why not give it a try..................thanks again,

Casper
 
Had my 35 welded at my favorite exhaust shop for $40 with the carrier in. Just welded four spots on the spiders cleaned it out with brake clean and air and away I went. I was planning on taking out the 35 for a 8.8 in a few months and wanted to try it. Considering doing it to my 8.8 now. Worked great. Kept tires at 35 for DDing. Still have the 35 for a spare.
 
Oops, sorry about that Casper. I must have copied the link wrong. That isn't my rear though, I just searched pirate really quick to find a shot for you. I never took any shots of mine. If you have any questions, let me know and I'd be glad to help out.

One other tip: Stuff a wet rag or some leather in the splined section of the side gears when you weld it. If you get any slag on the splines it can be tricky to remove. I had to learn that one the hard way on my first welded diff.
 
Josh89XJ,
I take it that you welded it in place. Or did you take the carrier assembly out and weld it on the bench? And if you did take it out, did you pull your axles and have them inserted or something else to keep the gears in place?? Maybe I am seeing something that is not necessary???? You welded it up with mild steel electrodes, Like 7018, or the equivalent in mig wire welding, etc...........
I do agree on the procedure of taking steps in welding, not to warp anything..... Can you help me out with these questions???

Thanks,
Casper
 
Josh89XJ, Woody, and the rest that have been in this converstation,
So now that I understand the welding of the gears issue, I have one more question.
So far as the backlash and pinion depth, it is still the same procedure to do both, right? Nothing in that area has changed I take it???
I really appreciate all of your help in this matter. Thank you all very much.............

Casper
 
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