Spanish 1st Stroker

[Rapoza]

Pray for me!

After rebuilding and tunning an entire 4.0L, I think I'm prepared to do an stroker. I was looking for a LS1, but after all I'll stay for a more factory look.
But I have some problems here to do all this work, with supplies and machining shops, so I need advice to be really sure which parts I need first.

A good friend of mine offered me a 4.0L bigblock even with the auto tranny, so now I don't have any excuse to start the stroker. Even so when I opened the engine it was all made a crap. It had been run without coolant and there was something like petrol (someday oil) covering all the head. I have to discard all the moving parts, due the lack of oil while working, and severely reground the cylinders.

Now block and head are being tested, but the first impressions are good

So I'll go for a +4.7L medium-buck stroker with one or two options.

Cylinder rebore to 0,060"
Sealed Power 677P pistons
4.2 rods
4.2 crankchaft
How do you call the "lifter sticks"? They must also be from 4.2?
The head will be milled to 0,010"
The block 0,020"
Mopar Performance #4529242 head gasket.
New Lifters
New camshaft, the stock is in a very bad condition, but i don't know what I must buy.
Cloyes dual roller timing set CLO-9-3127
New springs (any suggestion?)
Roller rockers (any suggestion?)
Melling high volume oil pump

Are all this goodies compatible or it will bang on the first crank?
I'm trying to make something on the chevy v8 power step (250-300HP), wanna go over 4,7L but don't like custom pistons or so. And I don't think my machining shop would be capable of doing an offset reground of the crankshaft :sure: however what are the directions/parts related for doing it? (meaning bearings and so, not powertools)

As the crankshaft concerns, I'm looking for a 12 counterweights one as I like rockcrawling, but I will be mated with an AW4
Its compatible?
Someone has the email of Atlanta Crankshaft Exchange? I can't express myself in english enough good to talk directly via phone. :helpme:

I want a torquer but with a good distribution over the revs, something from 1500-4000,
What camshaft I must use, in conjunction with the 12cw Crank? And with the 4cw one?

I'll post some pictures of the big and black crap, if you like the gore :laugh3:

PD: There's any trick to change the username to something more appropiate while not loosing all the posts and data?

THANKS ALOT!

 

[CROSBIKE]

Might want to check out my thread one post down. Doing the same thing you are doing.

 

[goodburbon]

We love gore, post the pics.

 

[1985xjlaredo]

A good friend of mine offered me a 4.0L bigblock even with the auto tranny, so now I don't have any excuse to start the stroker. Even so when I opened the engine it was all made a crap. It had been run without coolant and there was something like petrol (someday oil) covering all the head. I have to discard all the moving parts, due the lack of oil while working, and severely reground the cylinders.

What is a bigblock 4.0L?

 

[Beej]

Probably a typo, seeing as English is a second language...

 

[BBeach]

What is a bigblock 4.0L?

He prolly means longblock.

 

[Rapoza]

He prolly means longblock.

Yup! Sorry, I was meaning longblock. :wierd:
And the funny "lifter stick" word is.... pushrod, ejemmm

CROSBIKE, I'm following your post with fidelity :laugh:

What pushrods I must use, the 4.2L ones or the 4.0L?

The directions: 4.2L Rods -> 0.03" milled -> 0,03" shimmed balancers are OK?

How these are affected if I offset reground the Crank? And how much I can go on it?

The HIV girdle for the Crank mains is adaptable to the -2000 blocks?

I must dish the pistons?

The 70s Crank is compatible with the AW4?

Still I have to many questions... sigh!

Basically the thing is that I want to go beyond the typical stroker. to something like 4,8L or 4,9L but the info on these is very confusing.

 

[Rapoza]

Here the images of the at the moment:






Note the oval shaped holes for the torque converter bolts in the flywheel

 

[Rapoza]

MORE:





Note the stuck open termostat and the upper mark in the cylinders, already overbored to whoknows due a severe lack of oil.

 

[Rapoza]

AND FINALLY:





All these pictures has been taken for documentation and reasembling.
Note the damage in the cam and piston nr1

There's a big probability that the gear in the distributor has been also damaged, isn't it?

 

[avnsteve]

ooooohhhhh, the carnage!

 

[Dr. Dyno]

It looks like you're gonna have a lot of fun cleaning all the sludge out of that engine. Straight off, I can tell you that you'll be throwing away the following parts from the 4.0:

Crankshaft with main and rod bearings
Pistons
Timing set
Oil pump
Camshaft & lifters, with cam bearings removed from block
Freeze plugs
Pushrods and rocker arms
Thermostat
Injectors
Exhaust manifold

If you're going to buy 4.2 rods and 677P pistons, you won't need the 4.0 rods either. With all the parts that you've set aside for the trash can, you'll know what you'll need to replace and start writing a shopping list.
________________________
1992 XJ Laredo - 4.6 Stroker - manual
Dyno - 198rwhp@4650rpm, 254rwtq@3550rpm
Performance - [email protected]
Sites - Jeep 4.0 Performance, 4.6L Stroker Build-Up, Dino's Jeep Tricks

 

[JJacobs]

Wow. You might want to find the former owner and tell him what an oil change is, and how to do one.

 

[RichP]

Wow. You might want to find the former owner and tell him what an oil change is, and how to do one.

Find the former owner and make him EAT that sludge, that should be the penalty for doing that to one of the best engines ever built...

 

[Rapoza]

EO?