So Cal desert rats

[Vanimal]

Have you tried bleeding your clutch fluid? I bet it looks like mud

fresh fluid. helped a little but not much.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

put dot4 in it, it has a higher heat resistance and can mix with dot3 without causing problems.

 

[Vanimal]

thanks, thought about that but it just hasnt been a big enough issue to bleed it again.

 

[XJrealm]

Is that what I think it is? Am I looking at oil in my water or it just old crud?

 

[GrimmJeeper]

it looks like oil to me. is that the coolant reservoir you're looking into?

 

[Vanimal]

thermostat housing, aint it? looks like oil to me too, but if you just flushed it i could see it maybe being crud floating around.

 

[GrimmJeeper]

ah yeah it looks like the thermostat hole, i was trying to figure it out it didn't look right to me lol.

crud usually sinks, not clumps together in bubbles and floats around. are you due for an oil change? i would drain the oil and see if there is water in it. also pop the oil filler cap off and look at the underside of it. if water and oil is mixing it will usually have condensation on it that looks like chocolate milk.

 

[Vanimal]

it looked like it was on the bottom and he was running pure water. but i could be wrong.

edit: looks like it is floating but it also looks like pure water. maybe try antifreeze and see if that helps? pure water didnt work so hot in the motorcycle, it cooled better with water wetter or coolant in it.

 

[XJrealm]

Yes it is the tstat housing, and it is floating, however I took some out and put it in a jar shook it up and waited, it did not float back. Not the most scientific test but oil always wants to clump together. I will have to keep an eye on it though, once it cools down ill check the bottom of the oil cap. I just did an oil change last week though so ill wait on checking that out. It is going to the shop on Tuesday so ill have the mechanic check it out. I run water and red line water wetter only....its the desert out here, no freezing for me!

It looks greenish to me, kinda like the crud on the bottom of the resevior when I cleaned it. But it floats, that's the weird part. Hopin for the best!

 

[GrimmJeeper]

it's not just anti-freeze, it's coolant. it raises the boilng temperature of water and lets it cool the engine better, plus it has chemicals in it so the water doesn't wear down the inside of the engine due to cavitation, and to keep it from rusting from the inside out.

pure water is only good on the drag strip put coolant in it.

 

[Vanimal]

agreed. redline/water wetter are usually only used for racing applications because they don't want slick antifreeze dripping on the track, killing someone. it performs worse than coolant as far as cooling goes.

 

[XJrealm]

Per the manufactures recommendations for my radiator to receive the best cooling that's what they say to do. (Ffdynamics). Coolant is not as efficient at cooling as plane water. If you read red lines recommendation they do say that 1/3 coolant is good for street use but its because of the possibility of freezing. Many people in the desert use this setup without problems. Not to argue, its just what the actual research says.

 

[Paul Airhart]

Water wetter works by lessoning the surface tension of the water. The stuff that lets a waterbug walk on water. Adding coolant just messes that up. But, I have read that adding a little bit of coolant is a good trade off for the anti-rust and lubrication. I have since added a bit of coolant.

 

[Xtreme XJ]

I'm think'n O.E. H.D. plastic tanked uke: rad. with new HD fan clutch (maybe ZJ one) take the rad. tank trans. cooler out of the loop...
F! it... just replace it all every 4 or 5 years and be done with it...

Might be my next step... :dunno:

Curt

 

[Paul Airhart]

Before I got the cooling straightened out, in the summer, we'd have to slow down to 60 on the fwy to keep it out of the red. Had to turn the air off on a couple 120 plus days. Even now if we're late and doing over 75 on fwy, it will climb to almost the 3/4 mark (mark before red) in the summer.

 

[Paul Airhart]

I'm think'n O.E. H.D. plastic tanked uke: rad. with new HD fan clutch (maybe ZJ one) take the rad. tank trans. cooler out of the loop...
F! it... just replace it all every 4 or 5 years and be done with it...

Might be my next step... :dunno:

Curt

If You decide to go ZJ, let me know. There was a small mod I had to do, not bad at all but easier with the right dremel tips on hand.:wave: It increases the fan to crank rotation from 60-70 % to 80-90%. Worth it out here. My success was not one thing but a bunch of things...Remember?

 

[XJrealm]

Well like I said, its going to stan's auto. I think I might have bigger problems. I don't know if you guys saw it but I posted a pic of what might be oil in my coolant. Take a look and let me know what you think its a few posts back now.

The system of ffdynamics should work. I took my lights off and am still overheating and I know I am getting enough ram air. Who knows why the guy sold it before me. Maybe he knew it was a problem put some sealer in it and hucked it. Now a year later its not happy! I can keep spending money trying stuff or send it to a pro and get it fixed.

 

[XJrealm]

O paul the ffdynamics fans are rated at a total of 3300 cfm

 

[Paul Airhart]

I believe I read the stock one is about 4000 cfm plus 1350 cfm for the e-fan.

 

[souske]

so 5350 cfm vs. 3300, wonder where the problem might be...