sams 95 xj thread

I vote arms, cause there longer and stronger
 
if my temp gauge never moves, would it be temp gauge or thermostat?
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Maybe sending unit? Have you always had a full cluster? Even if you have, there's a sending unit in the head right up next to the fire wall on the intake manifold side. If the connector is off or the sensor is broke, you've found your problem real quick.
 
Short the sensor wire.....if the gauge reads HOT it is the sensor, if it does not move, its the gauge.

Rev

this.

on a 95 it should be the wire that goes to the sender in the thermostat housing. Just short it to the bock and the gauge should peg all the way over to hot.

If it doesn't I'd pull the cluster and look at the guage, specifically it's connection thats soldered to the "hot" side of the cluster that provides voltage.
 
on a 95 it should be the wire that goes to the sender in the thermostat housing. Just short it to the bock and the gauge should peg all the way over to hot.

not true

its the sender on the back of the block by the firewall

if it doesn't move at all i'd bet the guage. i had the same issue on my 96 and after replacing the sender i ended up swapping clusters (swapped to keep the original speedo) and it works now.


now if i could figure out what makes the second fan operate without forcing it on with defrost or a/c

mac 'be cool' gyvr
 
last couple of weeks i have been collecting the parts for my lift.
combo of the 2in from josh and the 3in from rough country
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rough country
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2in
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then i threw this in the mix
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and had to add these just because that's how it goes
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hope to get it all on soooooooon!
 
pics no worky
 
so the lift fun started yesterday. went on pretty late last night, we were over at rews fighting with rusty bolts for most of the fun. just ended up getting the rear done. the air compressor was quite loud at 1 in the morning. going back over there this afternoon to finish up the front.

cameras at his house so pics to come.
 
well the lift is on for the most part. i put the 3in add a leaf AND the 2in shackles out back. up front i did not put the 2in spacers on just the 3in coil. looking at it, i maybe keeping it that way to. my rear was really saggy so now its sits a tad higher than the front. i dont think it looks to bad, but i could use some opinions.

install wise, man did we think we were getting lucky. the rear shackles came off with the greatest ease. the bolts holding the leaf springs together came right out. u bolts and braces-no prob bob. lower shock bolt easy...............upper shocks, well that took a lil force. 1 bolt on each side came off the others not so fun.had to drill out the one side. not to bad, but the other well after breaking a few drill bits and just trying for hours i told rew as he was just about to start another round of drilling (it was 12:45am)"man give it one more shot at 1:00am we are quitting for today" he agreed.
somewhere between 12:55am and 12:59am i heard a pop. the beautiful sound of the drill bit going all the way threw the floor. i came.

the front was almost no problems. aside from the fact that i was running out of time so i did not get the track bar and control arm drop brackets in. ill get to those.
camera is at home pics should be up tonight.
 
i snapped a couple with my telly for ya

looking at the size of this driver the Left front is gonna be around 2 inch's

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fun with shock bolts :D everybody was wondering why i said we need to cut the floor open to fix them until we cut the floor open and they saw it

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Those are the same drop brackets I have and you wont be happy @ 3 inch with D B because they get caught on everything you try to back up over ,I have got stuck just about every day that I take my 2 door out wheeling granted I wheel in the PNW tree's and rocks but I cant stand them ,If you have 6 or 7 or even 8 inches they work fine but thaey F,N,G for small lifts. :greensmok
 
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