huh... weird. Guess it can't hurt to replace it anyway then, right?
what's killing me is: even with a wire straight from the battery, the pump won't run. it's the middle pin on the connector, right?
thought so.
Ok, I replaced the fuel pump relay. Just to be sure. nope. not it. What I did though, is keep the ignition on, and un-plugged, and re-plugged the relay and it didn't click on of off. So I have no power to the relay.apparently.
So nothing has worked yet. still only getting 7v at the connector, and at this point I'm thinking that the 7v is from the sending unit. because it's coming from the center wire in the connector.
I've traced all of the positive wires on both sides of the computer to no avail. Nothing seems to be shorted. no bare or poor connections.
I get 12v on pin 87 when the relay is connected. I only get .4 volts (ish) at the connector after the computer.
Relays are working, nothing seems to be wrong with the wiring. Unless it's somewhere in the bird's nest which is hidden inside above the pedals...
From 87, the power goes C on connector C103, a six wire flat connector near the right shock tower. From there it goes to C4 on C100 connector which is left of the master cylinder on the dash. From there it goes to #10 at the C119 connector under the left side of the dash behind the kick panel. From there it goes to C in connector C139 at the left rear inner fender panel.
I'll attempt to trace that tomorrow. but it's not just the one wire. it goes to a 6 way orange wire splice.
I traced all of the wires to their destinations except for the two that go through the firewall. after that I'm a little lost... I know it turns into pink/black somewhere.
The orange wires all seem to have roughly 12v, but the pink/black (THE ONLY pink/black at the left kick panel connector) only has about half a volt.
It's like it goes through the computer and loses all power.
Diagram doesn't show up. Anyway, you need to go through the connectors at their designated letters/numbers to trace this out. How's that first connector on the shock tower?
if it's the connector I'm thinking of, it looks good. connection is solid. no shorts found. continuity is good, and so is voltage. Like I said, I'll trace it tomorrow. it's dark now (north carolina). and I don't have a garage to work in... I live in the barracks on Ft. Bragg.
Does anyone know what functions the CPS affects when it goes bad? I just found that the insulation is melted away on mine. But it affects spark, not fuel, right.???
OK, WHAT TTHE HELL!
I just ran a hot wire back to the pump straitght from the battery, and grounded to my driveshaft.(only clean place I could find)
Pump didn't run. It sparked like any good connection should. but no run.
Did I burn it out!? Did I get a pump that was bad from the store!? I mean it's airtex, but FROM THE STORE!?Of course, I should still be getting power down to it, but it should run off straight battery RIGHT!?!?!?
Taylor, when Andy brought your Jeep here the cps was touching the manifold and was burned. We rerouted it away the manifold and zip tied it. Test your cps. Then pull the fuel line off the pump when you run it straight off the batt.
OK, WHAT TTHE HELL!
I just ran a hot wire back to the pump straitght from the battery, and grounded to my driveshaft.(only clean place I could find)
Pump didn't run. It sparked like any good connection should. but no run.
Did I burn it out!? Did I get a pump that was bad from the store!? I mean it's airtex, but FROM THE STORE!?Of course, I should still be getting power down to it, but it should run off straight battery RIGHT!?!?!?
Drive shaft is a very POOR ground, if it is grounded at all. New parts that are bad right out the box is very common. Best to test the pump at the battery before installing it.
well, it appears that the pump's feed wire grounds out to the body. I'm going to pull it and bench test it. (when the pavement dries up a bit)
There's still the problem of not getting power down there though. The starter relay isn't receiving ingition power.