tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
Well, sheets... I got the pump waranteed, and NOPE! Nothing. So we just ruled out the pump, I guess
Renix Not starting. Fuel pump not priming. only 7v at pump.
- Thread starter tayman
- Start date
magimerlin
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Flatonia, Tx
It needs 12 volts there abouts ...YES with the ballast resister removed. At least that is what both of my 89's have right now. lol Low battery will most definitely effect it.
Have you checked your fuel pump relay on the passenger side inner fender? In that row of 4 relays right by the starter relay, I wanna say it is the second one back if looking from the front.
Have you checked your resistance on your grounds yet? Are all your grounds there?
On the new pump make sure neither of the wires that will be on the inside of your tank are touching the pump itself. One of mine did that and it was basically shorting its self out. Took for ever for me to find it...
Have you checked your fuel pump relay on the passenger side inner fender? In that row of 4 relays right by the starter relay, I wanna say it is the second one back if looking from the front.
Have you checked your resistance on your grounds yet? Are all your grounds there?
On the new pump make sure neither of the wires that will be on the inside of your tank are touching the pump itself. One of mine did that and it was basically shorting its self out. Took for ever for me to find it...
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
OOOO pump relay. I'll try that next.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68504
from a long while ago, but it should have all the wires you need to check.
Fusible link is a hard to find culprit, bypass it temporarily.
check hte grounds at the pump
swap the relays around
check for voltage at the diagnostic connector under the hood. This will tell you if you have a problem in the engine compartment, or if you have a wiring problem along the chassis.
from a long while ago, but it should have all the wires you need to check.
Fusible link is a hard to find culprit, bypass it temporarily.
check hte grounds at the pump
swap the relays around
check for voltage at the diagnostic connector under the hood. This will tell you if you have a problem in the engine compartment, or if you have a wiring problem along the chassis.
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
thanks manche.
Inve been out of town for a couple days
that thread gave lots of options. I feel like I might have blown a fuse or fuse link. This only seenmed to have happened after I installed my on board air system. I spliced into a wire and my flashers went crazy, then all the gauges stopped working. Not sure which fuse/fuse link it would have been... but I think I'll first look at the relays.
Inve been out of town for a couple days
that thread gave lots of options. I feel like I might have blown a fuse or fuse link. This only seenmed to have happened after I installed my on board air system. I spliced into a wire and my flashers went crazy, then all the gauges stopped working. Not sure which fuse/fuse link it would have been... but I think I'll first look at the relays.
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
ok, I swapped relays, nothing, jumped pin 87 to pin 30 and al it did was create a resistence heater smelled like wire insulation heated up and maybe burnt a fuse somewhere. where is that fuseable link located athat was mentioned in your thread?
that's the goofy wires that all come off the starter relay.
They'll have molded rubber chucks where they meet the regular wire.
Since you jumped it and things smelled bad I'd say you've definitely got a short.
You need to ohm out the circuits to ground and find it.
They'll have molded rubber chucks where they meet the regular wire.
Since you jumped it and things smelled bad I'd say you've definitely got a short.
You need to ohm out the circuits to ground and find it.
NorCalChris
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Coast, Ca
What wire did you tap into?
*Edit* Take your battery to autozone or somewhere and have them charge it/test it
You cant do electrical testing with out known good source voltage. It can cause all kinds of little gremlins adding to your problems.
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tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
87manche: agreed. Do you know exactly which wires I need to be loking at?
Chris: it was one of the straight to battery hot wires that I have my front rock lights powered by. I spliced in, and no power. flipped the switch as if to turn the lights on and stuff went nuts.
Chris: it was one of the straight to battery hot wires that I have my front rock lights powered by. I spliced in, and no power. flipped the switch as if to turn the lights on and stuff went nuts.
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it's in that thread I linked earlier.
much discussion about what wires go where and what goes back to the pump.
pretty sure it's the orange wire that goes to the pump.
and it's the green fusible link attached to a heavy 10ga red wire.
I think.
I haven't looked at the FSM.
much discussion about what wires go where and what goes back to the pump.
pretty sure it's the orange wire that goes to the pump.
and it's the green fusible link attached to a heavy 10ga red wire.
I think.
I haven't looked at the FSM.
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
okay, i'll look into that next.
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
Okay, I just checked some more things... I get good voltage at the fuel pump relay. when the circuit is completed between 30 and 87 it reads good voltage.
Also tested continuity between the orange wire that runs off the starter relay and goes to the ballast resister. .2 ohms. pretty good.
then I checked voltage at the pin for that orange wire. MAYBE .2 volts... it was pretty much nothing. both key on, and key off.
Am I wrong to suspect that the starter relay is the culprit?
Also tested continuity between the orange wire that runs off the starter relay and goes to the ballast resister. .2 ohms. pretty good.
then I checked voltage at the pin for that orange wire. MAYBE .2 volts... it was pretty much nothing. both key on, and key off.
Am I wrong to suspect that the starter relay is the culprit?
shouldn't be.
If you look the post that the battery is attached to is the same post all of the fusible links go to. So the relay isn't involved with that part. At least if that's what I remember correctly. It's raining, so I'm not going outside to look.
You get 12V to the relay socket, but when you jumped 30 and 87 you smelled bad things.
Ohm out 87 to chassis. If the circuit completes you've got a short somewhere behind the relay.
what wire size did you use to make your jumper wire? Are you sure it wasn't the jumper you smelled? Anything less than 12 ga would probably melt.
Have you bypassed the ballast resistor? we talked about it, but I don't see that you said you did it. That's where I would start. Then you need to probably make some probes so you can look at what the relays do when you try to start it. The ballast resistor is supposedly bypassed during start. I don't know. Mine's an 87, so it never had one, and thankfully no one ever took it in for the noise complaint.
If you look the post that the battery is attached to is the same post all of the fusible links go to. So the relay isn't involved with that part. At least if that's what I remember correctly. It's raining, so I'm not going outside to look.
You get 12V to the relay socket, but when you jumped 30 and 87 you smelled bad things.
Ohm out 87 to chassis. If the circuit completes you've got a short somewhere behind the relay.
what wire size did you use to make your jumper wire? Are you sure it wasn't the jumper you smelled? Anything less than 12 ga would probably melt.
Have you bypassed the ballast resistor? we talked about it, but I don't see that you said you did it. That's where I would start. Then you need to probably make some probes so you can look at what the relays do when you try to start it. The ballast resistor is supposedly bypassed during start. I don't know. Mine's an 87, so it never had one, and thankfully no one ever took it in for the noise complaint.
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
ok, I'll check 87 to chassis.
Wire was either 12 or 14 ga I may have been smelling the jumper, or burnt grease? It arc'd nicely when I jumped it. might have singed some grease or plastic nearby
resistor has been bypassed.
Wire was either 12 or 14 ga I may have been smelling the jumper, or burnt grease? It arc'd nicely when I jumped it. might have singed some grease or plastic nearby
resistor has been bypassed.
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
Wait, did you mean I shouldn't be wrong? Or shouldn't be the relay?
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
pin 87 to chassis: .8ohms.
Now. where should this short be again? haha. between the fpr and the statrer relay? or after the fpr, toward the pump.?
Now. where should this short be again? haha. between the fpr and the statrer relay? or after the fpr, toward the pump.?
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
GREEAAATTTTTTT...........
and that's different from the orange wire at the starter relay, right.?
and that's different from the orange wire at the starter relay, right.?
tayman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Niceville, FL
Hmm.... well, I guess I'll have to take another closer look when I get time again. I have a crapload of auxillary wires running straight to the battery, so I kinda have to dig, but I'll try to figure it out. Porobably tomorrow or tuesday.
