Regearing Questions? READ THIS!

yea i have and its saying a 5.38 or deeper basically i just like having info redially available. for future referance as well as others. i know 38's are a bit extreme... but i knwo people do run them so i ask.

sorry forgot to add its the 5spd
 
DaJudge said:
Just to add my experience for those who are still not convinced.

2001 4.0 AW4 that is my daily driver.

I had 31s with the stock 3.55s. My gas mileage was terrible (I actually got 8.5mpg once) and the power sucked and driveability sucked. Trans was either hunting or engine was lugging.

Based on my research I went ahead and opted for 4.56 since I am eventually going 33s. I have been running this for 2 weeks now and I love it. I can't give you real mpg #s yet because I just corrected the speedo today. But...In the past I was lucky if I got back and forth to work for 5 days on 1 tank. The first full tank after changing to 4.56 gears I went back and forth for 8 days plus driving around on the weekend. It has made a huge improvement in my gas mileage. When I figure the next tank I will post the numbers up here.

Also, It is SOOOOOO much better driving now. I am glad I did not go 4.10s.

Glen
Click to expand...

OK! Here are my results. Driving to CA and back with the roof loaded with gear I got 15-16mpg. After unloading the rack (except my spare) I got 18mpg. Not bad for a "box on wheels" and I don't drive for gas mileage!

All and all I would say I am very pleased with the results!

Glen
 
sorry if this has allready covered, how do yall fell about running 4.88's on 33's and alloy 15x7 wheels. Will this be to low, on the street and kill my gas mileage, or could it make my 4low to low and unusable........thanks
 
y-townxj said:
sorry if this has allready covered, how do yall fell about running 4.88's on 33's and alloy 15x7 wheels. Will this be to low, on the street and kill my gas mileage, or could it make my 4low to low and unusable........thanks
Click to expand...

It would be awsome. I love it. Once you do it you'll understand.
 
to add an update -

I recently went from 33's and 3.55's with an ax-15 to 33's and 5.13's with an ax-15 -

revs about 3200 at 75mph - but otherwise fine on the street...
not low enoug in the rocks...

I need t-case gears as well...
 
bigblueandugly said:
how should i feel about 4.10's 4 to 1 and 36 inch swampers?
Click to expand...

For starters, what transmission do you run? DD or trail rig? A little more info would help out.

With an AX15, the 1st gear crawl ratio will be 62.8:1

With an AW4, the 1st gear crawl ratio will be 45.9:1

With a NV3550, the 1st gear crawl ratio will be 65.8:1

Personally, If you have the axles to support lower gears, I would rock 5.13's even with a 4:1 kit, and an AX15. You will like the lower gear of the axles.
 
whew ... been reading this post for 30 minutes it seems! good info though...

i just bought some 35's with stock everything else (other then 6in lift, rims, sye)
i have chrys. 8.5/dana30 and have a manual

from what i read, 4.56's are the best choice if i want to get around stock gas milage and still be fun on the trail and can make it up a hill, correct?

and the main point of this post, does anyone else have near this combination? i just want to know what you rev at around 65!
 
i've read this thread cover to cover and i'm one of the few who are on highway/local/dd 95% (only had my xj for 4 months). i have 31's right on stock gearing. i live in the bay area, no mountains to climb, except the 6 or 7 times i go up to tahoe each winter for snowboarding. it's great that there is so much debate, lots of information to absorb, but at the end, i guess i need an answer for my overall use/specs. like i said, i have 31's now, but planning on going to 32's or, most likely 33's very soon. with that in mind, i'm still not sure if i should get 4.10 or 4.56, considering the following:

2000 XJ, I6, 4.0L HO, 225hp, AT, NP231, 8.25/D30, OME kit + 2" bb. also have a ARB bullbar bumper (don't know if this extra weight would matter).

how do i know how deep my OD is? << i'm lost on this topic. should i go with 4.10 or 4.56? thanks in advance
 
you will not like 410s with 33s, 456s is perfect with 33.
 
330LICIOUS said:
i've read this thread cover to cover and i'm one of the few who are on highway/local/dd 95% (only had my xj for 4 months). i have 31's right on stock gearing. i live in the bay area, no mountains to climb, except the 6 or 7 times i go up to tahoe each winter for snowboarding. it's great that there is so much debate, lots of information to absorb, but at the end, i guess i need an answer for my overall use/specs. like i said, i have 31's now, but planning on going to 32's or, most likely 33's very soon. with that in mind, i'm still not sure if i should get 4.10 or 4.56, considering the following:

2000 XJ, I6, 4.0L HO, 225hp, AT, NP231, 8.25/D30, OME kit + 2" bb. also have a ARB bullbar bumper (don't know if this extra weight would matter).

how do i know how deep my OD is? << i'm lost on this topic. should i go with 4.10 or 4.56? thanks in advance
Click to expand...

If you plan on doing 33's, id spring for the 4.56 gears. If you stay with 31/32's, 4.10's would work well. Your OD ratio is .75. Adding bigger tires would cut down the RPM's at any given speed. My .02.
 
I didn't even like 4.11's with 32's! Ran hotter due to extra strain of the lower revs and the slower turning water pump. Even the auto was effected.
 
Found quite a many questions reguarding RPM's, so here's two charts for you all. They are both for AW-4 Trannies with a .75 OD and the RPM numbers reflect what you would see at 75mph (likely the most common highest speed a lifted jeep might see). The first picture is for the gear ratios found for the Chrysler 8.25 and the second is for the gear ratios fround in Dana 44's. Hope this helps some. If you need a different tranny, let me know, I'll get another one made up. (BTW thanks to Twieks gear calculator for the charts)


Chrysler 8.25

picture.JPG


Dana 44

picture.JPG
 
Why is the auto I6 geared at 3.55 and the manual at 3.07?
Because of the OD difference thing? Partly.
All drivetrain combination must be smog certified. That means every combination of engine/tran/t-case/differential gearing/tire size must be tested and certified. They seldom test all of them but that there problem. But you can see that all this smog/MPG testing can cost some bucks.
This cost is one of the main reason we are luckily to get 2 engines in any car. Just look how few drivetrain option are available on a new CJ compared to 5 years ago.
The factory I6 towing package were the auto is a must also get the 3.55 same an any Auto I6 Cherokee. As fare as smog thing goes same Jeep. So less smog cost for Jeep.
The auto runs just fine turning 3.07s torque peek or not. I know I been driving a 01 spot I6 auto 235/15s with 3.07s for over 10 weeks now. Pickup is down a hair from the 3.55s. Not much. City MPG is a hard call maybe down abit. Highway MPG is up abit.
Over all cost saving is why the I6/auto/3.55 are all but tied together.
 
badron said:
This cost is one of the main reason we are luckily to get 2 engines in any car. Just look how few drivetrain option are available on a new CJ compared to 5 years ago.
Click to expand...


Your theory almost holds. Chevy has no less than 6 different versions of the 5.3 liter V-8 in their half ton pickup for '07. Various power levels and E-85 capapble models.
 
CRASH said:
Your theory almost holds. Chevy has no less than 6 different versions of the 5.3 liter V-8 in their half ton pickup for '07. Various power levels and E-85 capapble models.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that they haven't made a CJ since '86 so that is why there aren't many engine options. ???????
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Long Arm
Replies
2
Views
242
maxbraketorque
M
M
Axle swap on 1996 xj
Replies
11
Views
309
FusiliJerry
F
A
Speedo works and it's correct?
Replies
6
Views
190
Abstrastic
A
D
Locker / Posi combo for trail rig
Replies
13
Views
541
Evan03
E
High2by
FS: Dana 35 Super 30 Kit
Replies
2
Views
97
High2by
High2by
Back
Top