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Refurbishing a Wrangler (TJ Frame replacement)

Begster

NAXJA Forum User
I thought I would share for those who might be interested what I did with a lot of my summer. It isn’t a Cherokee, but it is a Jeep.

This all started with my father’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sahara edition. We bought it a few years ago in the summer of 2006, and it’s at roughly 91K on it now. It was a fun vehicle that my father drove around in, my family (alright my mom could care less) enjoyed in the summer and drove on the beach, and after my father got rid of his Ford Expedition, was used to tow his 19ft Carolina Skiff that he used for aquaculture .

It was pretty clean, has no major issues body wise, and was fairly well of mechanically. (I really don’t have a ton of good pictures of it before)

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It even had the privilege of playing host to the LUVMYJP plate.

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There was one day I was laying under the Jeep, and (being more mechanically knowledgeable since the day we bought it) noticed something I clearly missed when we were inspecting the car to purchase it. I started at what I saw for a minute or two, until it slowly started to realize what I was staring at, and what it could mean. I was looking at the belly pan on the drivers side, with beads of weld connecting it to the frame, and a few tack welds to keep the bolts from spinning. The nutserts had clearly rusted out.
The previous owner of the vehicle had pretty much lived out on the beach with it during the summer time when he was in possession of it. On top of the day trips out on the beach to soak up the sun and enjoy the Cape Cod summer, he had a camper that he took out quite frequently. This Jeep was used as transportation back and forth to the camper for who knows how many years. Salty sand + no frame drain holes + road salt in the winter + the fact that my dad was essentially driving it into salt water multiple times a week to launch his boat and not washing it off = Big issues.

A little beach action

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One day I noticed a little bits of rust flaking off the cutout in the frame, right in front of the drivers side rear tire. Upon picking at the scab, it soon left a bigger opening than was initially designed into the frame by the factory.

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Rust started, yada yada yada, fast forward a few years, and that brings us to last summer when the rust hole got bigger, and my dad sent me this picture.

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I guess this happened while he was idling at a stop sign.

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So, I did the only thing I could do at that point, and permanently attach it by welding the belly pan to the frame, making it 100% never coming off.

My dad kept bugging me saying “I just want you to weld a piece of plate to the outside of the frame, that is all. It will be fine.” I informed him that to weld metal to metal, there actually needs to be metal present. There was nothing but rust in the vicinity, and I told him I just wouldn’t do it, the frame was done and beyond repair. Especially since it now looked like this:

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After months of me telling him this, he finally believed me when he sent me these pictures.

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So, I was graduating college, was going to be taking some time to enjoy summer before looking for a job, and figured it would be the perfect (and only) time to tackle a complete frame swap. I was actually really looking forward to it, and wouldn’t let my dad sell the Jeep for next to nothing or part it out.

So, after not finding a good frame for quite some time (everything was either rusty, bent, crashed or $1 million dollars), I found a nice 4 cylinder frame in NH listed for $750. I borrowed Ross’s trailer, my dad’s XJ (which he got to replace the TJ), and after only $550 later, we now had a frame.

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It wasn’t the most beautiful frame, but it was solid.

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The first thing I thought of was I should probably swing by the car wash and degrease the underbody/engine compartment to make things easier. After looking underneath the Jeep and noticing there was a fair bit of oil under there (oil pan and probably rear main seal, valve cover), I’m glad I did.

So, in went the Jeep, and out came the parts.

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Please disregard those horrible seat covers.

My dad, while not completely unknowledgeable with how things work (despite all the times he says he doesn’t know and gets me to do things for him), didn’t really know too much about cars. Since he was more than happy to help (as he thankfully always is when I need help on cars) with the project (I should hope so, it is his Jeep after all), I figured it was a good time to teach him.
 
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Nice and rusty.

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This section of the frame has a particular spot in my heart since it was here that a brake line rusted through while my sister was driving it to a concert one day. It burst, leaving her with no brakes and of course a call to me. Thankfully that concert was at Gillete Stadium, right next to Ross. We went in and got the Jeep, brought it to Ross’s, and after splicing in the replacement line, Ross steps on the brake to start bleeding it, and the line in the same spot, passenger frame rail decided to burst. The part stores were all closed at that point, so out came the AAA card.

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I took a ton of pictures of the tear down so that I could attempt to return the parts to their original locations. I remembered where most of the things went, but man I’m glad I took as many as I did, and actually wished I took more.

With the help of the engine hoist graciously lent to me again by Ross, off came the tub. I left the AC stuff attached so I wouldn’t have to evacuate the system and have it recharged.

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And that left the chassis, in all its rusted glory.

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This was a good time to survey all the metal of the frame. And when I say metal, I mean
rust.

Crusty D35

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You can even see the rear crossmember is made of rust, sprinkled with sand.

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And now, to survey the damage.

Warning, these pictures are extremely disturbing considering the age of the vehicle.

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Look at that sand and rust. Did I mention the frame has no drain holes? It rusted from the inside out

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Literally every time we hit it or bumped into it, rust would fall out.

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Engine and everything but the front axle removed.

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It is kind of funny considering I drove a Jeep into this garage bay, and I never drove one out…

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Yes there are way too many Jeeps/vehicles at my house.

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Cutting the belly pan off to reuse.

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It almost looks like modern art!

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Everything is so rusty. The coil springs were actually frozen to the axle. The coil retainers swelled around the bottom of the coils, and it took a bit to get them off.

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The gas tank skid/mount was pretty damn rusty. It even had a few holes in it, and after my dad tried to remove some of the rust, we realized that there was nothing left of this thing.

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Time for some engine work: I had noticed that the oil pan was about to rust through in one section. It was also pretty crusty where it mated to the block. Notice the bolt heads in the picture.

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With the also very gracious donation from Ross of his engine stand, working on the engine was very easy and convenient. I replaced the oil pan with a brand new one, the pan gasket, the rear main seal, and the valve cover gasket.

As you can see it was a little leaky.

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Me working on the bottom end.

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Back together

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Quite a bit of sanding and grinding was done on the new to us frame, since we wanted it to look real nice. My dad actually was a little annoyed at how detailed I was getting, and how long I was taking to “make things look nice.” (i.e. sitting on my but enjoying waking up in the afternoon)

The next thing I did was cut and grind the 4 cylinder mounts off the frame, being sure I didn’t cut into the frame itself. I then carefully cut off the 6 cylinder mounts off the old trash frame, making sure they would be good enough to weld onto the new frame.

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I then TIG welded the engine mounts and steering coupling mounts onto the frame.

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One thing that was wrong with the new frame was someone used the front body/grill mount to lift it, which distorted the metal. No problems, a press did the job.

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After a whole lot of prep, it was ready to paint. We decided to go with Eastwood’s chassis paints. 1 coat of Rust Encapsulator, and 1.5-2 coats of Extreme Chassis Black, all shot through my air gun. (I started off with a paint brush, but it was taking forever and I was getting nowhere with it looking terrible) My father also did an internal frame coating, every little bit of protection counts.

Can see the greenish inside.

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The finish looked pretty good in person.

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My welds

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And back in the garage, almost ready for reassembly.

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Another thing I noticed when I was checking things out before disassembly was that the u-joints were in need of replacement.

I’ve honestly never seen axle shafts this rusted. The shafts out of my ’77 and ’74 axles when I was building my D44 were, and still are in better condition.

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This dust seal even rusted in half on both shafts.

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Boy were those u-joints fun to remove. Thankfully once again I had the press, but they kept breaking caps.

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It turned into a u-joint graveyard.

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FINALLY, time to put it all back together.

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Only 2 bolts broke the entire disassembly.

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Nice and shiny!

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Brand new Mopar gas tank skid

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I ran all new hardlines for the brakes. It was extremely easy without a body on top.

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New Monroe shocks

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Cleaned up inner fender

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My father and I posing for a shot behind the chassis before we put the body on.

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Now for a before and after:

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Body going back on

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And for the moment of truth……







It started on the first try! Definitely an awesome and rewarding feeling, knowing that I assembled the thing from a bare frame. (headlight bezels and fog lights etc not necessary for the test drive)

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The thing ran well, nothing fell off on the maiden voyage, and it drove well. The only issue that was experienced after putting it back together was the blinkers didn’t work, which was a fluke since it was a dirty switch. Taking it apart, cleaning it and regreasing it and everything is working fine.

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Most of the mechanical work on the project was done by me, including all the engine work. My dad helped out where he could, especially on the heavy lifting and areas where two sets of hands were needed. He did a big chunk of the grinding/cleaning/paint prep and painting of the axles or whatever I needed him to paint. I’m happy for that, because it was work I really didn’t want to do, and he was more than happy to do it.
He was happy to learn about all the different parts of a car, and was always curious what each part was, what it did, and how I knew what the hell I was doing.

He installed the gas tank and skid by himself. I promptly got a text from my sister telling me to double check it when I got home, she didn't want the tank to fall off...

It was definitely a fun project that I’m happy I got to share with my Dad. He said that despite the fun he had, if he knew it was this much work, he would have just parted it out.

As of last weekend it is back on the road, and drives better than it did before!

-Mark

(I already told my dad there is zero warranty on my work. If anything breaks or falls apart, good luck!)
 
Most of the mechanical work on the project was done by me, including all the engine work. My dad helped out where he could, especially on the heavy lifting and areas where two sets of hands were needed. He did a big chunk of the grinding/cleaning/paint prep and painting of the axles or whatever I needed him to paint. I’m happy for that, because it was work I really didn’t want to do, and he was more than happy to do it.
He was happy to learn about all the different parts of a car, and was always curious what each part was, what it did, and how I knew what the hell I was doing.

He installed the gas tank and skid by himself. I promptly got a text from my sister telling me to double check it when I got home, she didn't want the tank to fall off...

It was definitely a fun project that I’m happy I got to share with my Dad. He said that despite the fun he had, if he knew it was this much work, he would have just parted it out.

As of last weekend it is back on the road, and drives better than it did before!

-Mark

(I already told my dad there is zero warranty on my work. If anything breaks or falls apart, good luck!)
I hope you told him that doing a part-out is half the work of fixing it :roll:

I've actually seen some u-joints and axleshafts that bad - my 96 had the same horror going on. Since I intended to wheel it I put new less-rusty junkyard shafts in, I wasn't sure there was enough metal left to hold it together.

Wanna do the same thing to a 5-ton sometime? I don't even need a frame, just need to clean everything up and repaint! :eyes: beautiful work.
 
Nice job Mark, that thing looks brand new now.

I know the feeling of going from a bare shell to running jeep with no issues, definitely feels awesome.

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Looks good Mark! how many hours you think you have into it?
 
Nice job Mark. It looks really good. I only have one question.
He installed the gas tank and skid by himself. I promptly got a text from my sister telling me to double check it when I got home, she didn't want the tank to fall off...
Pics?
 
Nice work. A frame-off rebuild is a serious project, even on a Wrangler where they design the body to be removed

How would one do a frame-off on a vehicle whose body isn't designed to be removed?
 
Begster,

I'm in the midst of my own TJ frame swap and am almost to the point of needing to position the 6cyl motor mount brackets and getting them welded onto the frame (replacement frame was a 4cy 1998 frame, my TJ is a 6cyl 2002). Totally stock.

I've referred to your frame replacement thread several times along the way and gotten some really useful info from your pictures....

Your pictures kind of skip the one step I'm preparing for. I see you cutting the mount brackets from the frame and then re-welding them into the correct position, but I'm a little foggy on how you determined the exact position.

I'll have both front and rear ends and skid plate installed by then (and nothing else), so my plan was to set the drive train (engine with mounts and brackets attached, trans, xfer case) in and set into the skid plate and just center in the slots for front to back position and then figured the mounts themselves would center the engine side to side. I also thought I would try to take a few general reference measurements from a friends similar model jeep.


How does this plan sound? Any advice would be appreciated.
Doug
 
Begster,

I'm in the midst of my own TJ frame swap and am almost to the point of needing to position the 6cyl motor mount brackets and getting them welded onto the frame (replacement frame was a 4cy 1998 frame, my TJ is a 6cyl 2002). Totally stock.

I've referred to your frame replacement thread several times along the way and gotten some really useful info from your pictures....

Your pictures kind of skip the one step I'm preparing for. I see you cutting the mount brackets from the frame and then re-welding them into the correct position, but I'm a little foggy on how you determined the exact position.

I'll have both front and rear ends and skid plate installed by then (and nothing else), so my plan was to set the drive train (engine with mounts and brackets attached, trans, xfer case) in and set into the skid plate and just center in the slots for front to back position and then figured the mounts themselves would center the engine side to side. I also thought I would try to take a few general reference measurements from a friends similar model jeep.


How does this plan sound? Any advice would be appreciated.
Doug

Hey Doug,

Glad that my pictures have helped.

That is essentially what I did. Measurements from a friend's jeep would help, I wish I took more about where the mounts were before I cut them off. I did take some measurements for the steering mount though, as they were in different locations and need to be swapped too. But I dropped the entire engine assembly into the crossmember with the engine mounts bolted up, and tacked them in place once everything looked lined up.

I think one of the more important measurements is transfercase output yoke to rear axle yoke. If you have the rear end in, I would also install the rear shaft to double check that you have the correct spacing. I think my engine might be a bit forward, I have noticed my rear shaft boot doesn't bottom out on the yoke anymore, and I have been noticing vibes on the highway since I took the Jeep over from my dad. I will need to change driveshafts when I swap the 3spd auto for an AX-15, but that won't be for a while it seems.



Sounds fine, just make sure you do Eastwood's internal frame coating.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That stuff doesn't do anything. We did a bunch of that on this frame when we painted it, and it was gone within a year.
 
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Thanks for the advise guys. I did vacuum out the inside of the frame and applied the Eastwood internal coating to the inside. It's got to be better than doing nothing (especially since I already did it!).

I've been trying to find someone with a jeep from my model family (97-02, 6cyl, automatic) to just see where the trans mount bolts hit in their skid plate slots and just use that for a starting point. I've looked at 5 or 6 that have some difference (year range, manual trans) and every one so far has had the trans pushed to the back of the slots, just leaving a sliver of slot opening showing, so I think that where I'll start. Maybe that was Jeeps standard placement of every transmission relative to it's slots. I'll go ahead and hook up the rear drive shaft as well.

Going to try getting things into place this weekend and then try to line up a welder. My brother knows a retired guy who does that kind of stuff. I also have the steering shaft hanging there with the steering support bolted to it so it can b positioned and welded in at the same time.

It feels like getting the mounts and drive train in will be a big turning point for me.

Again, thanks!
Doug
 
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