4Doors
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FL Panhandle
I've done a ton of searching and it seems that everyone asks how to get the thing out....but I haven't found anyone looking for advice on getting the blasted thing IN! I did one a few years ago on my old '91 and I really don't remember it being so difficult to get the new seal back in. On my current '92 however, it's been quite difficult and I ruined my first seal. I couldn't find info on any forum so I searched google and actually found this site where the guy got the following advice from 4Wheelers Supply.
It wasn't until after I messed up my first attempt that I found this advice, so I decided to practice with the bad seal (no RTV on my practice runs) and found that the above advice does very well to get the thing started, but I still could not push the seal all the way around, so I'm turning to you guys. Any more advice on how to push the seal around the crank? I think I read somewhere that you can loosen the bearing caps and allow the crank to drop ever so slightly, is this true? ANY help would be much appreciated!
The primary reason for new rear main seals leaking is (after installation) the torn backside of the seal. Because there is a pre-load on the (upper half) seal when installed, it is all too easy to cut/tear the rubber off the back side of the seal where it meets the sharp machined edge of the back of the block (thereby creating gap and/or unequal pressure along surface).
Solution:
A thin piece of plastic (ie. the stuff used to package stuff...credit card would work, but is a little thick). Cut the plastic so that it has an ear the width of the seal journal and about 1/4 inch long. Insert the ear into backside of the journal (you are using it as you would a shoe horn to cover the sharp edge) Cover back side of seal with LIGHT coat of RTV (acts as lubricant during installation and seal when done). Seal will slide in like a greased pig on hard ice (as opposed to having to tap in with hammer). SMALL dab of RTV on mating surface (ends) of seal... DO NOT put RTV on mating surface of bearing cap; this will destroy proper bearing clearance.
It wasn't until after I messed up my first attempt that I found this advice, so I decided to practice with the bad seal (no RTV on my practice runs) and found that the above advice does very well to get the thing started, but I still could not push the seal all the way around, so I'm turning to you guys. Any more advice on how to push the seal around the crank? I think I read somewhere that you can loosen the bearing caps and allow the crank to drop ever so slightly, is this true? ANY help would be much appreciated!