Well, I got 2 subs in my 2000 XJ. Then came the rattles as I expected. However, it is coming from an unusual spot, the rear hatch door handle. I moved the hatch handle around and noticed that it has a little bit of play. Enough when the two 12's hit, I get annoying vibes that can be heard up front. I was thinking about using dynamat, but that is a last resort as I don't think it will do much good. There may be a way to get rid of the play in the handle. Does anyone have any suggestions or had the same problems? What could I use to fill the free space between the hatch handle and the body that surrounds it?
Rear hatch handle vibes from subs! Help!
- Thread starter Drake00XJ
- Start date
MuddinXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Greenwood, IN
i put 6 12s in the back of an 88 Cherokee before. They just had the push button hatches. not sure if thats what you got but if you do then just replace the button. we had to because it shot the button out. also if you are doing comps dynamat that SOB
fluidmotion
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Tigard, Or
i found a great trick for your hatch. if you take some electrical tape and wrap it around the latch that is on the floor a few times then clost the hatch it will make it a very snug fit and the hatch wont rattle on that as bad. this wont help if your whole plastic piece is rattling though but it will help some
I'll try that this afternoon and let you know how that helped. I was thinking of some expanding foam to fill the small space. That might be my next step. BTW, another guy said he had this problem too. It's due to poor design, there is only one bolt on the left side holding the handle in.
fluidmotion
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Tigard, Or
i tried the expandable foam in the hatch as well. you will need 2-3 cans at least to finish the job. i have screws holding my plastic cover onto the hatch, sound deadning under the plastic, the expandable foam in the holes, and i put that tape on the latch and mine still rattles but i dont hear it inside so i dont care anymore. but i dont know about your set up but mine is puttin out some pretty good SPL. i still havent gotten tested cuz i havent found the time. but when you do the expandable foam be carefull not to get it in the latch and stuff, you dont want it freezing your whole hatch up.
imma honky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Augusta, Ga
I dont know if the striker bolt is the same as the 90 cherokee, but i had that problem and just moved the bolt as far back as possible and it tightened it all up.
JeepinAudiophile
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northborough, Massachusetts
I would strongly suggest putting some sort of sound dampening material in... I have gone a bit far and i'm not done but i have somewhere in the range of 150-200 sq.ft. of Cascade VB-2MAX in my 00' XJ and i don't even have subs yet. I find that it makes a huge difference in the sound floor while on the highway especially. I have a decently loud exhaust and I can't even hear it on the highway when I turn my radio up a little bit. You will get more out of the dampening sheets than you think, of course it can get expensive. I have a little over 3 Bulk Packs of Cascade I have used(and just ordered another) they are 52sq.ft. each and $290 for the bulk pack... so i've got $870 worth of it in there already. I would suggest doing the doors, cargo floor and sides- you should be able to do all this with 1 bulk pack.
Caution: Be VERY careful when working with expandable foam, it's good stuff but can cause you MAJOR problems. I had a customer that tried to use expandabe foam to fill in the frame in his trunk. He sprayed it in then taped the edges with duct tape, the foam expanded and had nowhere to go so instead it pushed on the sheetmetal and now he has "bubbles" in his trunk wherever he sprayed the foam.
Caution: Be VERY careful when working with expandable foam, it's good stuff but can cause you MAJOR problems. I had a customer that tried to use expandabe foam to fill in the frame in his trunk. He sprayed it in then taped the edges with duct tape, the foam expanded and had nowhere to go so instead it pushed on the sheetmetal and now he has "bubbles" in his trunk wherever he sprayed the foam.
zerphyte
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- High Point, NC
i stuffed a towel in the area where my back hatch is, worked like a charm.. also sound deadended the back of my hatch with rubberized undercoating($2.99) a bottle.. don't be fooled by that overpriced 'sound deadener' spray sold in stores at 20 bucks a pop. By some simple rubberized undercoating and spray away! (with the back panel removed of course)
jeeper821
NAXJA Forum User
.....
zerphyte said:
That sounds like a cheap fix. I will try that out. Oh yeah, I have my subs pointed toward my hatch, what differences would it make if turned them toward the backseat (sound, vibrations gone)? Which way would my subs be better turned? I have 2 12s in a sealed box.
Gridikal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sidney, NE
LoL, same here, all deadened and no subs, well their in the garage. I second all that, especially the expandable foam crap. Warp your panels, get it everywhere--or you could do a nice job with it. I had a friend do it in his explorer, went bizerk with it, ended up warping panels, gettin it on carpets, and he managed to get it in the seatbelt reel baaaadJeepinAudiophile said:
-common! 290$!? I paid 125 for each of my 4 d-mat xtrmeme packs ( or is that the customer price? :laugh3: )
Gridikal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sidney, NE
and is NOWHERE near as effective, if you are tryin to compare to Stinger road kill or rockford's ruberized spray your dead wrongzerphyte said:
Gridikal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sidney, NE
geeze I shoulda read all these befor posting,, face the subs toward a hard surface for maximun effectiveness (i.e. the hatch or back left or right corner)Drake00XJ said:
kubtastic
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Tacoma, WA
Do you mean the handle on the inside of the hatch? Down in the corner? Tighten the screws. That'll get rid of the play it has.
Edit: Re read the thread - you're talking about the handle outside. Ok. Ignore me.
Edit: Re read the thread - you're talking about the handle outside. Ok. Ignore me.
I stuffed a few small towels around my rear hatch handle. I am getting so frustrated with the lack of a solid interior in Jeeps. The towels helped a little bit but I guess the only right way to do it would be using sound deadening material. Way too much $ for me, I am in college. Any cheap but effective materials to use?
zerphyte
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- High Point, NC
ahem. advance auto parts rubberized undercoating. as for the guy who said it wasn't anywhere near as good as the stinger or rf.. yeah, it is. my fulltime job is doing car audio/video/security installs, and selling the items(can you tell i work at a place called sound solutions?) anywho. it works just as good. i've compared before with two of the same cars(actually, i used the rf spray too) but i can understand why you would want the other, for the name, you bought the name
anywho. thats all from me, do like i said, or dont.. i don't really care.. heh
anywho. thats all from me, do like i said, or dont.. i don't really care.. heh
KinesthesiaDrums
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minot, ND
are you SURE its the latch handle? i don't know much on the insterior make up of the rear hatch or latch handle and what not on the newer model jeeps......but i got the same rattle....with three 12's...from outside it sounds like the license plate or something metal...i've got the push button latch tho.....but what i've found to be the source, as well as in the other 4 doors, is the rods for the lock mechanism INSIDE the door......
i haven't bothered to open the doors/hatch up and work on a solution tho....you can't really hear it inside...mostly only heard outside....at least when stereo is at higher volumes....hehe
i haven't bothered to open the doors/hatch up and work on a solution tho....you can't really hear it inside...mostly only heard outside....at least when stereo is at higher volumes....hehe
Gridikal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sidney, NE
Congrads, go get some real training, get certified in installation and electronic tech, spend 4 weeks at a actual audio school, get your MECP certification, make some connections with people like Steve Brown (I hope you know who he is) and then come back and lecture me.zerphyte said:ahem. advance auto parts rubberized undercoating. as for the guy who said it wasn't anywhere near as good as the stinger or rf.. yeah, it is. my fulltime job is doing car audio/video/security installs, and selling the items(can you tell i work at a place called sound solutions?) anywho. it works just as good. i've compared before with two of the same cars(actually, i used the rf spray too) but i can understand why you would want the other, for the name, you bought the name
You guys are too much fun. All I was asking for was some advice and now I am laughing my ass off. Oh yeah, it sure is my rear hatch handle, I could hold it from the outside and the vibes will stop. I can wiggle the handle too. I was thinking about just movind down to one 12, I can't handle this anymore. P.S. I am a perfectionist if you can't tell. It has to sound as clean as can be.
