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Rear Cargo Storage- what i did...

aroncull

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Denver, CO
Hey guys.. wanted to add a link to my "webspace" from msn (blech!)
for the rear cargo trunk "mod" that i completed a couple weeks ago..
I will take pics of it with out the camping stuff and update in a bit..

Details:

I created channel type rails on the sides out of 1.25" angle aluminum.
One inside of the other like and inverted L with an L inside of it... creating a channel so that I could slide the cover piece in and out. (both sides)
Cover piece is made of 3/8th plywood with angle aluminum on both long ends to reinforce it, then I covered it with grey carpet from PEP boyZ.
I also ran eyelet bolts at the four corners through the angle aluminum for tie downs as you can see. eventually the top will also be the dog zone for a lab or some large dog as yet to be determined by the family...
So in other words its very strong and light and cost around $60!!

Since it houses a sub and amps etc i needed to add a fan so i grabbed one of my old 120MM 12V computer fans that i had laying around and mounted it to blow on the amps= works like a charm just ran the ground to ground on the amp and the hot to the remote start line.. SWEET!! And now the bass is even bassier (SP? is that really a word LOL!) All in all i wanted to create a trunk for my XJ as my 2 rear seats have child seats essentailly permenently installed in them and its a manual everything interior when the rear hatch is closed and locked you would have a very very hard time getting into the rear area!!!

SO since i do not have any REAL web space if any of you do or can figure out how to link within the msn url please add the pics to the post!

http://spaces.msn.com/members/Cullencolorado/

There are a couple of other photos in there to but you can find the rear cargo shot !


Thanks and keep on jeepin freakers!!!

Aaron
 
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looks good :)
 
Looks really good. Can I play devil's advocate for a second though? Any way you could add a bolt to either side to hold it in place? 3/8's plywood with the front edge armored with aluminum isn't something you want shifting around inside when you roll or stop extremely fast like in an accident.
 
Custom shock boots on the lift gate. Do alot of wheelin' w/ the gate open? LOL...I like the theory of it though. THose buggers can get expensive!!
 
Thanks for posting the pic! I knew the post wouldnt really be helpfull unless the photo was added..
Thanks for the compliments too!

I have since added 7 more photos of the "trunk" so that you can see the fabrication side of it as well as wtihout anything ontop of it.

lets see if i can get the inserting to work...

complete rear shot-
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Trunk drivers side-
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Trunk passenger side-
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Blow hole for amps-
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Passenger side CHANNEL RAILS-
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Driver side CHANNEL RAILS-
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and then the one UNDERSIDE SHOT, this should help you guys really see what i did-
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one last one to show how i glued the carpet down on the center up to the edge but not over.. this way i can cover the channel rails on the sides and still remove the cover if necc-
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OK so basically the channels hold it tightly in place in case of accident or what not and made the fabrication a KISS deal keep it simple stupid..
now it looks really nice protects all my stuff and was inexpensive @ $ 60

-aaron
 
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And one last thing -- i am a total cheesball for the rear hatch shock boots LOL i just had to admit that...
 
Nice work! I need to do something like that. Maybe also have another "shelf" with the donut spare under it... Is your spare back there, or on the roof?
 
Great design!! It can be easily modified to fit different applications, like top could be 2 panels instead of one. It would be exactly same design though. Wonderful, Wonderful, Wonderful ... As Art Linkletter used to say
 
When i had originally concieved of it, I came up with 3 different ideas.
I decided on the final because of the simplicity, cost , install time and difficulty.

Other 2 ideas:

1. Was to have one that folded up in half on hinges.
Decided againest due to cost for more metal and logistics of install and having to create 2 frames for the folding panels.

2. Was to have the slide in type i have now, but the panel split lengthwise in half for additional versatilty. Great idea but didnt want to have the look it would have ended up with. Plus it would have also meant, again more metal and the time to wrap the carpet around each panel and then run the scews and .... really? i got lazy at that point LOL!

I wanted to post it because i wasnt able to find anything like it and thought it would be inspiring since ultimatly it was a simple install. I got 2 nets from salvage for 10$ one for ontop and the other for the trunk area.

I also have a small single upright 4 drawer plastic unit from Target in the back that holds all of the typical trunk stuff: jumper cables, slime, maps, binocs, rope, tools, gloves and other clothing etc....

SPARE TIRE? Dont have one now.. need to get one when i get my new tires, i just changed the wheels to the soft 8's from some AR-alloys it came with off of ebay. When i do get one it will be rear mounted on a ridigco bumper tire carrier or maybe a Detours rear bumper & carrier. For now its slime, 12v pump and sets of valves and stems :gag:

SLEEP ON IT? Have not actually gotten ontop of it. I think it might be hard to even fit in there and im not really "big". I am an average 5'10.5" @ 200# (little chunky!) so i wouldnt want to try and fit in there ... But my kids have been in there playing on it and together they weigh in at 70# (4 yr old and 2 yr old) there was no deflection with them on it. But i would say it could hold up to maybe 150# WITH defelection around 1.5" or so...just guessing..
 
Great job. Did something like that to a wagon. I had pulleys mounted to roof. With small ropes I would lift the wood and mattress out of the way. We camped out of it for years.
I was 220 LB plus the wife's XXX LB. (IM not going there). It need a little stiffing 3, 1 inch angle, steal. Worked fine for us.
 
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Interesting approach - I'm getting ready to design something that can stash my sub, amp, and rear-mounted batteries... Don't want it quite that high, tho.

My only real complaint has already been mentioned - I don't see anything that locks that in place in the rails. I'd not use a screw - a pin on each side will do. Just something with a little ring handle to pull it out when you need to remove it, and you can drill the hole out all at once. Don't need anything bit - 1/8"-1/4" will do nicely.

The loose carpet at the edges is a nice touch, I've got to admit.

Here's another potentially useful idea - a centre brace. Install using piano hinge (it's easy enough to get, anymore,) and have it so that the hinge is folded double with the brace in place. Pull out the panel, and the brace falls flat for easy storage - until you put it back it.

Just a thought....

5-90
 
i dig the pink shock boots on the tailgate lift struts...
 
Um... PINK! I hope im not color blind! i do know im a cheesball but i dont think im colorblind!! :wierd: :gag:

Ok so my thought on the movement thing (Grizzley) was that since my back seat has the booster seats installed, thats the rear seat back would not fold over and therefore the panel would not more that much forward...

WITH that out of the way, me and the wife just had a discussion about if we got rear ended by something like a .. powerwagon or f350 or a hummer or other lifted vehicle. It could smash the rear door hatch and therfore send the panel forward right into the back seat and we can all get the picture from there.....

Well now i am trying to figure out a way to make this all work within my safety and security needs and still look good..
so in other words back to the drawing board for a revision in the name of safety!!!!

[ side note here: i am wierd about my childrens car seats... it takes usually to install them to my satisfaction about an hour and a half for 2, now ive done it quicker but thats an average. I did once take it to a fire station and they where not as thorough as i am. My seats are super installed in other words. I just wanted to add that since i think it is VERY important that they are fully installed and i believe that if you didnt spend a while and possibly break a sweat when installing them, crawling around inside of your vehicle to install them trying to mash your fat ass into there little seat with your feet on the ceiling to get it as far down to get the lock on the seat belt to lock ... and well ok i got carried away sorry... but hopefully you guys get the point :lecture: ]

so back to the other thoughts:
I do think that a supportive center brace running parallel to the panel in the center is a good idea. for when i might need to carry a heavier load or what not.. but seeing as i have to some how create a safety breaking point in the case of rearendage im not sure how that would work into it...
"sigh" .. well any ideas guys??


Do you think that if i were to run a .25" carraige bolt through the front and rear 4 corners and throw some butterflys on them that it might help hold it in the case of an accident.. I mean obviously it would help.. I just wonder how much. I dont mind having to undo the bolts for panel removal. I dont really plan on taking out out very often, only when a load cannot be carried ontop in the roof rack... hmmmm
 
If you want the shelf to "collapse" in an accident, cut it in half an run a piano hinge parallel to the seat. If you are rear-ended the shelf can accordian much easier.

Just thinking out loud.
 
Thanks for the description and pics! One question (I don't think I missed the answer in the thread): How did you secure the side rails to the jeep? Are they screwed/bolted into the body or just the plastic panels?

Thanks,
fiz
 
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