- Location
- Southern Maryland
That a 3/8 NPT fitting? The thread is 5/8-18 I've confirmed it with store bought nuts
Interesting... I'm familiar with hardening steel/iron, but I've never heard of hardened aluminum beyond work-hardening, which would make sense at the bend and the flare. But, if I'm cutting the flare off, I'd assume the stock left behind would still be workable? I'm reading more about precipitation hardening now and will likely reach out to Russell/Edelbrock, Red Horse, etc to find out if they use any such process on their hose ends. Good call, though - I wouldn't have ever thought of that.Idea #1 isn't happening because you can't flare hardened aluminum.
Idea #2 would depend on what your thinking of doing. Most hydraulic hose does not have the same OD as SS line, were you thinking about trying to crimp it?
Plumbing fittings usually use NPT (plumbing thread) with the size referencing the pipe diameter (in this case its a 3/8 hose) so 3/8 NPT would be right. Except NPT is usually tapered and the male fitting is not, so its not an NPT thread.Nope. 3/8” SAE flare (seen it referred to as 5/8” OD flare as well). 45° shoulder, common in plumbing.
Threads are 5/8-18. There’s a fine thread variant of this same fitting that I’d assume is 5/8-24.
Yep, spot on. This is non-tapered (thus not NPT/MIP), and is the same SAE style used for natural gas fittings (possibly even inert gas too) and flared copper tube (like in refrigeration).Plumbing fittings usually use NPT (plumbing thread) with the size referencing the pipe diameter (in this case its a 3/8 hose) so 3/8 NPT would be right. Except NPT is usually tapered and the male fitting is not, so its not an NPT thread.
But if it works it opens up some other possibilities, probably find something in a plumbing catalog, or may be able to use a fancy flaring tool
Nice - oddly enough, that part looks damn near identical to the one I ordered, and the part number is eerily similar (06U-446 vs 06E-466). Looks like the closest shop that has one in-stock is in New Braunfels, so I might be making the drive sometime today.I'm a sales rep for an Eaton Weatherhead distributor. If you find a hose shop local to you that does Eaton' s everflex line they should have whay you need on the shelf. I stock a 90 degree -6 SAE flare fitting pn: 06E-466 that goes on a nice stainless braided Teflon hose.
I converted my AW4 clip fittings to steel hydraulic JIC fittings and made my own stainless braided Teflon lined tranny fluid hoses.
Holy shit, I'm an idiot... I sure as hell love making things complicated, but for some asinine reason, I totally missed that. Just confirmed a local shop has it, so I'm gonna run pick one up in a little bit.I'm not sure why your making it so hard? Take your existing line, cut it and use a comp to AN fitting, DONE!
but then realized that in the end, two of these are all you need:
https://www.amazon.com/Russell-640850-Hard-Tube-Adapter/dp/B0014B9JQA
Its location just would've been less-than-ideal for my intended cooling setup.
With regard to that fitting you posted above, what exactly is it? Not familiar with the little horseshoe piece.
That being said, common wisdom seems to dictate that the aux cooler should be plumbed after the radiator... But part of me thinks it should be the opposite, since the radiator acts as a heat exchanger to some extent to help bring the fluid up to temperature more quickly. Is there any scientific reason behind plumbing the aux cooler after the radiator rather than before it? Seems like the presence of an aux cooler regardless of plumbing will ultimately yield the same cooling benefits, but having the fluid pass through the radiator last would help get the transmission up to temperature more quickly on cold days.