RogerTango said:
Uh... I *think* you mean Marval Mystry Oil.... MMO... I ran some, it only worked good for the first 5 minutes. That was with 10W30. I forget what Im running now, but I moved up in thickness, I *think* its 20W50.
Doesnt MMO thin the oil, making the thicker oil a waste of time??
Andrew
I run the MMO with Lucas Oil additive. One quart of each. The high viscosity of Lucas counteracts the low viscosity of MMO so the net change in hot oil pressure at idle is nill. I have tried just MMO and Just Lucas in mine, and for the lifter / tappet clatter I find the 50/50 blend of the two (2 quarts net, mixed with 4.5 quarts of the usual oil you would normally use) is the best combo for cleaning and quieting the noise at the same time. Then 20W50 for the oil itself to get the hot oil pressure at idle increased.
I changed my oil pump to a high flow oil pump and replaced the only worn bearings I could find (slightly worn crank shaft bearings) when my 10W40 oil pressure hit 9-10 psi one day. That had almost no effect on my hot oil idle pressure.
Since then, last 2 years, I have discovered that several things seem to affect the oil pressure gauge readings. One is low voltage, and poor grounds! Low voltage and poor grounds problem is more evident as you turn on high current using devices like the AC blower for heat on high, the Electric Coolant radiator fan, head lights and brake lights and turn signals. I have also noticed that the oil pressure is extreemly sensitive to the engine idle speed. In drive the difference between 750 rpm and 450 rpm is the difference between 30 psi and 20 psi oil pressure on the gauge. Then add in the extra power loads plus low alternator output at 450 rpm and it sort of means the gauge is lying, under reporting oil pressure by maybe 5 psi, and the low rpms is actually droping the oil pump speed enough to drop the oil pressure by 5 psi.
My hot oil pressure at idle is currently 5 psi higher with my AC running, because the idle speed in drive is about 200 rpm higher with the AC running (My Renix ECU kicks in and cranks up the IAC to run at a higher rpm!!!!) .
I also recently found some old API SL Havoline 20W50 inventory that I have used twice now, and it is giving about 3 to 5 psi more pressure than Exxon 20W50 (API SL) was giving me.
On the Slick 50 sugestion, while I am a snake oil advocate, the one snake oil product I never recommend is Slick 50, or anything with Teflon in it.
Teflon has fluorine atoms which when they break down form hydrofluoric acid, which is an extreemly corrosive, agreesive acid. Teflon begins to decompose at around 700 F, so expect it to attack areas in the combustion zone over time.
I would use a product like Restore before I even considered trying Slick 50 for restoring compression, as it works the same way as Slick 50, but it uses colloidal particles made of silver/copper/lead that plate out on the cylinder walls, with out the corosive acid byproduct problems Slick 50 has.
TiRod,
How many years, and miles have you put on a Slick 50 engine with out problems? What was the mileage before you added Slick 50?
