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00 XJ - Low oil pressure at hot idle. Compression and analysis are good, what's next?

AZ2000XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
AZ
Hey all, been hunting down a low oil pressure issue on my XJ for a bit now. I bought it with a cracked head but it ran fine and didn't have any milkshake when I fixed it (replaced head/hardware).

Ever since replacing the head it's run like a champ. It's needed a couple sensors here and there (TPS, IAC and CPS) but the engine has been strong and healthy. That was confirmed by a compression test not long after a couple cycles of oil to clean out the block. Each cylinder was at spec.

One issue ever since then is that the oil pressure on the gauge would be fine at start up and while driving for a bit. But once it'd heat up to operating temp, it'd sit right at the first line (10psi) at idle and only go up maybe another 10-15PSI under load. Considering it had a cracked head and coolant could have ruined the bearings, I've kept a close eye on it. There has been zero noise/ticks out of the engine other than a bit of an exhaust leak because the previous owner omitted 2 exhaust manifold bolts.

Either way, to be safe rather than sorry, I've tried replacing the pressure sender but I've only tried some non-oem/mopar versions. Neither of them worked. Before spending the money for the $90 mopar version, I tried a mechanical gauge. Granted, it was a cheap one. It was reading near zero at hot idle... Thinking it was faulty, I returned it and got a bit pricier of a mechanical gauge (off amazon) and while it wasn't zero at hot idle with this one, it was at maybe 3-5 psi and 20psi under load. It's still possible the gauge was cheap/subpar but I doubt 2 gauges would be that wrong, especially since the second one had a relief valve to remove air out of the hose/housing.

Considering the potential of my bearings going out, and seeing what looked like very very fine glitter/metal in my oil, I sent a sample off for analysis at Blackstone. To my surprise, nothing came back too worrying! Definitely no major wear metals that could indicate bad bearings (lead/copper). Here's the report:

https://i.imgur.com/KzCvjI0.jpg

So, if all looks good there then would my next step be replacing the oil pump? I do have a slightly leaky oil pan gasket. And my valve cover leaks a bit more than that. Could that cause low oil pressure at hot idle? Should I just go ahead and replace the oil pump for peace of mind since it's cheap and I need to do my oil pan gasket anyways? Anything concerning on my report that stands out? What is the molybdenum from?

Side note, I've switched over to some 15w40 diesel oil and the XJ lovessss it. It's been running even better, and oil pressure has been up as well.
 
Someone let water run through it and scrubbed the cam bearings. Been there, done that with an 01. Only repair at this point is pull it and put in new cam bearings, and if your in it that far might as well rebuild it. Oil pump will not help. That's what I tried. It did not work.
 
Someone let water run through it and scrubbed the cam bearings. Been there, done that with an 01. Only repair at this point is pull it and put in new cam bearings, and if your in it that far might as well rebuild it. Oil pump will not help. That's what I tried. It did not work.

That's what I was thinking but wouldn't there be wear metals on my oil analysis? There's some iron & aluminum but it's only been ~4k miles on the new head/valve train so figured it may be that?

Fortunately I've prepared myself for a potential rebuild of the engine, though it was already already a swap a PO put in and I'm assuming/hoping they did a rebuild on it. When I put the new head in, everything looked very good for 151k miles. At least it's my weekender/backup vehicle but I imagine a rebuild at a nearby shop would probably be ~$2k these days?
 
All I can tell you is I had the same situation and rod bearings and a high volume pump didn't help. I junked it at that point. Between the cracked head and all the electronics problems that 00-01s typically have it was a losing battle. I'll never own another one of those years.

As for a rebuild parts and machine work are insane now. I priced it at about 5k to build a stroker out of my old engine and I already had a crank and was going to do the assembly myself. I put in another 300 dollar junkyard engine and it's served me 75k so far.
 
All I can tell you is I had the same situation and rod bearings and a high volume pump didn't help. I junked it at that point. Between the cracked head and all the electronics problems that 00-01s typically have it was a losing battle. I'll never own another one of those years.

As for a rebuild parts and machine work are insane now. I priced it at about 5k to build a stroker out of my old engine and I already had a crank and was going to do the assembly myself. I put in another 300 dollar junkyard engine and it's served me 75k so far.

Well certainly not reassuring, but not unexpected at least. Before jumping the gun it might be at least worth taking the pan off and doing some inspection. I imagine I may have enough access to push on the camshaft to see if there's play? When I rebuilt the upper end, the lifters didn't show any signs of wear at all, and even looked pretty damn new. Maybe they were replaced already and that's why.

Either way, I've only put like 1k miles on this thing a year since I've had it. It's a weekender/grocery getter. I'd like to use it more for camping trips to spots no further than 70 miles from home. So as long as I have some oil pressure, there's no concerning noise, and I keep an eye on it, I imagine I should be fine for some time?
 
Cam bearings are what started my stroker build after fixing the head on my 2000!
 
I replace the crankshaft with a used one on my '98. Used the used crank bearings from a 2000 XJ block, that the crankshaft came from. I bought new rod bearings. Plastigaged them. Installed a new oil pump from NAPA I bought years ago. I went from say 15 psi at idle and probably 30-35 at 2000 RPM to 28 at idle and 45-50 at 2000 RPM. Also, replaced the harmonic balancer. Upgraded to a double row timing set.
 
4.0Ls run low at idle. The factory spec is 10 lbs at idle. Lots of people go to the 5w oils and see very low idle pressures. The engine was designed for at least 10w30. Personally I would run 15w40 Rotella and call it good. I built 4.7L stroker and it was low from the start. I am running Rotella and have 260K on the rebuild. The Rotella is good because it also has ZDDP.
 
4.0Ls run low at idle. The factory spec is 10 lbs at idle. Lots of people go to the 5w oils and see very low idle pressures. The engine was designed for at least 10w30. Personally I would run 15w40 Rotella and call it good. I built 4.7L stroker and it was low from the start. I am running Rotella and have 260K on the rebuild. The Rotella is good because it also has ZDDP.

Yeah I switched over to 15w40 super tech heavy duty diesel (all stores near me were out of Rotella) this last oil change and the engine runs a lot better. Better oil pressure at start up (goes up to the 40-60psi range for a bit) then comes down to around 13-15psi at hot idle. When it's really running for a bit it's closer to 10psi. I still need to test psi with the mech gauge on this new oil. But since I don't drive this thing all too much, I'll just run with the heavy diesel oil for a bit and keep an eye on it.

Do you think there's any value to taking the oil pan off and inspecting bearings/camshaft? And then replacing the oil pump while I'm there?
 
Yeah I switched over to 15w40 super tech heavy duty diesel (all stores near me were out of Rotella) this last oil change and the engine runs a lot better. Better oil pressure at start up (goes up to the 40-60psi range for a bit) then comes down to around 13-15psi at hot idle. When it's really running for a bit it's closer to 10psi. I still need to test psi with the mech gauge on this new oil. But since I don't drive this thing all too much, I'll just run with the heavy diesel oil for a bit and keep an eye on it.

Do you think there's any value to taking the oil pan off and inspecting bearings/camshaft? And then replacing the oil pump while I'm there?

Only if the pan or rms is leaking and you want to fix it. 10 psi hot idle is fine on these.
 
4.0Ls run low at idle. The factory spec is 10 lbs at idle. Lots of people go to the 5w oils and see very low idle pressures. The engine was designed for at least 10w30. Personally I would run 15w40 Rotella and call it good. I built 4.7L stroker and it was low from the start. I am running Rotella and have 260K on the rebuild. The Rotella is good because it also has ZDDP.

^^ This
 
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