Quick suspension geometry question

my upper is longer, and it works well...

its longer because my lowers mount to the back of the axle, and then to the 'frame' and the upper mounts to the 'top' of the axle, then farther back on the frame...

I dont really know what you're asking Billy... :gee:

buy my 3 link is different than yours will be, and mine doesn't use the cross member... :dunno:

build the link mounts where they work, and then make the links...
 
No idea. You could always just attach your upper to one of your lowers.

OMG LOL WTF HTH.

I can probably measure the control arm lengths on the gray car if you're into that.
 
:laugh2: I don't even remember why I asked this question!
dunnough.gif


Too many rum and cokes! :D

How about this one... is there any reason to triangulate the lowers when you have a panhard (besides clearances of course)?

Thanks,
Billy
 
From my experience the length of the upper will affect the pinion angle at droop or compression. My upper is about 1.5" longer than the lowers. If they are close in length it will be fine. If you wanna really get technical there is a 3-link download on pirate. Kevin

My setup:

2562994390104121418S425x425Q85.jpg

2161461040104121418S425x425Q85.jpg
 
To make sure you can't get to the driveline bolts with your suspension in place?

Seriously.

Keep that access in mind when placing your frame-side brackets.
 
The length of the upper isn't that important, so long as it's nearly level. The change in angle of the upper is what affects the pinion rotation, so theoretically a shorter arm that's level could change the pinion less than a longer arm that's angled down. Put them where they fit, keep the upper close to level and close to the length of the lowers and you're fine.

You don't need any triangulation with the panhard bar. Make the mounts where they'll be strong, and where you'll get adequate tire clearance.
 
I have seen some uppers mounted to the cross member for the tranny, is that good or bad?
 
Back
Top