Dewidge
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lakewood, Co
I've always considered doing that flip. Looks good!
Project: Rusty Nail
- Thread starter Justpunchit
- Start date
Justpunchit
NAXJA Member #1291
- Location
- Jaffrey, NH
thanks! I tied it into that rear xmember that the bumper bolts to. I also skinned it as well. So I guess if and when I want to go to a fuel cell I'll worry about removing the tank then, and I can pull the pump in the jeep so I didn't mind trapping my tank in the skid.
Nothing yet for updates, I really need some longer breaklines and some limiting straps very soon.
Nothing yet for updates, I really need some longer breaklines and some limiting straps very soon.
ChevelleSSLS6
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grand Rapids, MI
\Also didn't like how the new hitch was so far down on the back of the Jeep so I did a simple flip and cut the bumper some.
Good idea.:eeks1:
Justpunchit
NAXJA Member #1291
- Location
- Jaffrey, NH
Thanks! I was up there on sunday, I'm going to tie the hitch into the bumper brackets as well tomorrow I think before I load up for PA.
Spent most the day today packing and prepping my truck and trailer for PA, however I did mess with the XJ a little bit. First thing was I NEEDED to finally get my temp gauge going. Now since I have a 2000 head I did not have the port for the gauge in the back of it. So I did this...
It's really the only option I had. It works great but now it seems to show me running very hot all the time. Due to the location does anyone think maybe it's just the nature of the beast now?
I've been going back and forth on if I should do Hydro boost brakes or if I should just upgrade to the dual diaphragm booster with newer master. Well before I scrapped my 1995 I pulled the booster and master. So I decided to wait on the hydro until I can properly plumb a remote reservoir and a bigger cooler.
Couldn't wait to see it go.
all cleared out, while it was out I shot it with some 3M undercoat to maybe kill some more engine noise.
I've never really noticed how much of a difference there really is between the two.
I noticed with the new master cylinder that the reservoir was very loose and the seals were cracked. I ended up replacing it was a new unit.
And finally here she is all plumbed up.
It's a huge difference over what I had. I still need to do another round of bleeding. But after a quick run out back it was a great afternoon upgrade.
Spent most the day today packing and prepping my truck and trailer for PA, however I did mess with the XJ a little bit. First thing was I NEEDED to finally get my temp gauge going. Now since I have a 2000 head I did not have the port for the gauge in the back of it. So I did this...
It's really the only option I had. It works great but now it seems to show me running very hot all the time. Due to the location does anyone think maybe it's just the nature of the beast now?
I've been going back and forth on if I should do Hydro boost brakes or if I should just upgrade to the dual diaphragm booster with newer master. Well before I scrapped my 1995 I pulled the booster and master. So I decided to wait on the hydro until I can properly plumb a remote reservoir and a bigger cooler.
Couldn't wait to see it go.
all cleared out, while it was out I shot it with some 3M undercoat to maybe kill some more engine noise.
I've never really noticed how much of a difference there really is between the two.
I noticed with the new master cylinder that the reservoir was very loose and the seals were cracked. I ended up replacing it was a new unit.
And finally here she is all plumbed up.
It's a huge difference over what I had. I still need to do another round of bleeding. But after a quick run out back it was a great afternoon upgrade.
dirteexj94
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Thornton
Awesome build man!!!!
I like that tow hitch flip idea. Going to have to integrate that into my Detours tailbone as well.
Nice to see someone running hydro assist on a D30. I've got all the parts in my garage to do it, just haven't started anything yet. I have a feeling I'm going to have trouble with the OTK heim steering and my Ruff Stuff cover kinda like you did. How did you solve that problem? I might just grind down some of the top part of the cover since it doesn't need to be that thick up high anyway.
Nice to see someone running hydro assist on a D30. I've got all the parts in my garage to do it, just haven't started anything yet. I have a feeling I'm going to have trouble with the OTK heim steering and my Ruff Stuff cover kinda like you did. How did you solve that problem? I might just grind down some of the top part of the cover since it doesn't need to be that thick up high anyway.
clean4drxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- CT.
sweet build, love that front bumper!
Justpunchit
NAXJA Member #1291
- Location
- Jaffrey, NH
Thanks guys I just wheeled it for 3 days straight and was more than happy how it performed!
Mine just just clears the cover. I've seen people just take some DOM that's a step bigger than your steering dia and notch the cover with it. I'd like to do something like that soon to get a little more of a steering radius but at the moment it's not holding me back from doing anything. I LOVE hydro assist on my D30 just be careful with it. I wheeled last week with a buddy who has almost the same thing on his MJ D30 and we never had an issue.
Mine just just clears the cover. I've seen people just take some DOM that's a step bigger than your steering dia and notch the cover with it. I'd like to do something like that soon to get a little more of a steering radius but at the moment it's not holding me back from doing anything. I LOVE hydro assist on my D30 just be careful with it. I wheeled last week with a buddy who has almost the same thing on his MJ D30 and we never had an issue.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
flazz85
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Jersey
great rig man, you definitely know your shit, glad to see this kinda thread because they really give out some useful knowledge, respect
Justpunchit
NAXJA Member #1291
- Location
- Jaffrey, NH
Haven't touched much since NacFest, however I've been focusing on my rig being more self supporting, so I've been looking at what tools I need, how to carry them and onboard air.
Forgot to post the final touches to my flipped hitch, It's still not done but I dont think it's going anywhere soon
Also ruined ANOTHER KM2 thus for my change of plans with tires
First I tackled my tool chest. I used 3/4 Plywood with one side that was finished.
I first made the drawer, then I put the dividers it in to hopefully keep things where I put them.
Then the outside case. I used two ball bearing sliders on each side rated 75lbs per assembly. I Also put the metal edge protectors on to hopefully make it last.
Here it is with everything packed in
Next was the onboard air. I looked at a lot of options and decided to use an old A/C compressor.
Here's the dryer, inline oiler, filter, and hose. I tried to find a heat rated air line that was readily available. No such luck, looking back I'm sure I could of found the same type of line that is used for the plumbing in big rigs. Instead i used hydraulic line, rated 500˚F and holds way more psi than my little compressor can put out.
And the pressure switch
Anyone know what the small brass input is used for?
For air storage I'm going to use a 7 gallon tank that is hard mounted next to my fresh tool chest
I couldn't find a decent spot to put my dryer anywhere so it's mounted on the back of the box like so.
And once I finish replacing my leaking fuel tank I'll button this project up!
Forgot to post the final touches to my flipped hitch, It's still not done but I dont think it's going anywhere soon
Also ruined ANOTHER KM2 thus for my change of plans with tires
First I tackled my tool chest. I used 3/4 Plywood with one side that was finished.
I first made the drawer, then I put the dividers it in to hopefully keep things where I put them.
Then the outside case. I used two ball bearing sliders on each side rated 75lbs per assembly. I Also put the metal edge protectors on to hopefully make it last.
Here it is with everything packed in
Next was the onboard air. I looked at a lot of options and decided to use an old A/C compressor.
Here's the dryer, inline oiler, filter, and hose. I tried to find a heat rated air line that was readily available. No such luck, looking back I'm sure I could of found the same type of line that is used for the plumbing in big rigs. Instead i used hydraulic line, rated 500˚F and holds way more psi than my little compressor can put out.
And the pressure switch
Anyone know what the small brass input is used for?
For air storage I'm going to use a 7 gallon tank that is hard mounted next to my fresh tool chest
I couldn't find a decent spot to put my dryer anywhere so it's mounted on the back of the box like so.
And once I finish replacing my leaking fuel tank I'll button this project up!
Last edited:
Justpunchit
NAXJA Member #1291
- Location
- Jaffrey, NH
I unbolted the back half and tapped it. I think it was.... 3/8-16 NPT???? don't quote me on it, I have no idea on pipe taps.
knucklehead 61
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cottage Grove, Oregon
i am pretty sure the small brass input is for a line directly to the tank. it senses tank pressure to turn the compressor on & off.
billyjp2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indian Orchard MA
3/8-18 is NPT
Justpunchit
NAXJA Member #1291
- Location
- Jaffrey, NH
Thanks to a friends help I finished up the OBA setup however have yet to truly test it due to have no fuel tank at the moment. all in all i'm really happy with how it turned out.
and another show of where I put the inlet filter. All i did was make a bracket off of the evap canister mount.
Also modified my tank skid and will be strengthening the back of my unibody, pics of that to come tomorrow.
and another show of where I put the inlet filter. All i did was make a bracket off of the evap canister mount.
Also modified my tank skid and will be strengthening the back of my unibody, pics of that to come tomorrow.
Justpunchit
NAXJA Member #1291
- Location
- Jaffrey, NH
Finally got the new tank in, and tested the air... IT WORKS!!!! little leak at initial start up but i quickly fixed it and builds to 120 without a hitch.
The biggest hold up with my tank was that I could not remove the skid. what I ended up doing was cutting the skid off at the bottom and adding 3/16 plate as a skin on the sides to beef it up as well as making it a little easier to bolt to. and got this... keep in mind I also added inner rear stiffeners while the tank was out, probably not needed but there's a lot of crap pulling on the unibody now so why not really.
And here's a little video of my initial run of the OBA couldn't be happier now that it doesn't leak!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlOJybtAeys
The biggest hold up with my tank was that I could not remove the skid. what I ended up doing was cutting the skid off at the bottom and adding 3/16 plate as a skin on the sides to beef it up as well as making it a little easier to bolt to. and got this... keep in mind I also added inner rear stiffeners while the tank was out, probably not needed but there's a lot of crap pulling on the unibody now so why not really.
And here's a little video of my initial run of the OBA couldn't be happier now that it doesn't leak!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlOJybtAeys
Another quick question about the hydro assist. I think I have the same ram as you and I already solved the tie rod problem by cutting and plating the ruff stuff cover.
1. Does your tie rod hit the driver's side coil bucket? I trimmed mine, but now the tie rod is actually hitting the spring, limiting turning to the left. Can't trim it any more without moving the spring itself.
2. Did you have to limit the throw of the ram at all or does it match the movement of your steering arms?
1. Does your tie rod hit the driver's side coil bucket? I trimmed mine, but now the tie rod is actually hitting the spring, limiting turning to the left. Can't trim it any more without moving the spring itself.
2. Did you have to limit the throw of the ram at all or does it match the movement of your steering arms?
