Project: Rusty Nail

hey on the plus side, if your ever stuck in the winter, just let it freeze and you got a locker.
 
Rear end is running great, and my 1-2 gear solenoid went so that was another fun project I wasn't foreseeing. but the build goes on

With most of my running gear gremlins out of the way I started on my front bumper. I grabbed brackets from a friend to start off and realized right away that they need to be modified in some way.
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The brackets were modeled after some aftermarket bumper that must double as a planter. I had to cut about 5" off of them so it would work with what I'm using them for. Here's the first test fit
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Burned the new bumper brackets home
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And final fitting
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Blingin fairlead. :D
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and another goodie I finally got in the mail!
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Got the wiring all buttoned up and the rope wound.
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That's going to do it for work this week. I was hoping to get my LA's in but I need to cut and move my muffler back like 7 inches... and I'm in NO mood to do exhaust :P
 
Haven't got a ton of progress to report of, been collecting parts for the hydro assist, had the hoses made up and all my AN fittings are in. All I have to do now it just pull the box and tap away.

What I did get done is my dual batteries finally, had the other redtop in my garage for about 2 months and finally went and did it. I thought it was going to be a bear but it was one of those projects that was... dare I say fun? The only thing Im not liking is on my battery in the engine bay has like 5 wires going to the positive top terminal, and everything I read tells me I pretty much can't put anything that draws alot on those side terminals so I guess for now I have to live with it.
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I decided to put the power inverter right on the back of the rear seat, when it's up it rests right about the battery box so it's out of the way and easy to get to.
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And the final pic of everything buttoned up
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Not starting anytime soon but getting the parts pile going as we speak to get this going...
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It will be a rear triangulated 4 link with stock or 2.5" TJ coils. For new running gear I'm going to be using a F-350FF 10.25 (35spline Alloys, ARB, 5:13's) Yes Robs old Axle And a Hybrid D44/D50 (35 spline RCV's. 5:13's, Spool) tires will stay at 35's then 37's next spring.
This is the hybrid kit I'm doing for my 44
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=948996
 
that hybrid deal seems bad ass, wish I didnt already buy a dang locker.

You get it for the 44? you still use the D44 carriers they just have to the 373 and down carriers

Well I don't know about you guys but I find metal working so relaxing. So when the wife asked what I wanted to to for my birthday I just smiled and grabbed my safety glasses off the counter hahaha

It's been really bothering me that I didn't finish the mounting of my rear seat, so today was the day to get it done. I'm going to just run some 2x2.120 where that stamped sheet use to live for seat support.
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And added a support at the end.
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I think I'm going to leave it like that. It should siffen up the floor plus it lets me slide my spare shafts in it. however if I continued the 2x2 to each side would it really help? I'll finish it up tomorrow either way.

Also have been really looking hard at my 4link design. I measured a lot and really looked hard at what I want it to do in the long run, and how I want my cab to remain sealed. This is my final revision to it. I know not to live by the calculations and let things just fit where they may to a point but I want this to perform the best it can and for as long as possible so please if you have an input let me know! I'm going to start collecting parts within the month! :D
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Are you planning to box in the ends or leave them open? I'd recommend boxing them to keep rust at bay if you see any salt air or humid areas. I did this with a roof rack I built and left it open thinking it would be better, but it was the opposite. The rack rusted from the inside out, even though I did my best to paint inside. Disregard if you already mentioned this some where. I wasn't able to read the entire thread. ;)
 
dunno if you are going to be able to get the spare shafts into that (do the hub flanges clear the door frame / floor?) but it's a neat idea.
 
it's about 4 inches to the floor. so maybe, it was a last minute thought before I went to work so I'll test my idea tomorrow morning I hope so! If not I'll just tie it into the rear fenders somehow.
 
I can never stay on task... Started the long arms
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Then my regulator when in my drivers do... so I cannibalized my red doors for the parts I needed. Then got a little idea
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And left the day with a rough cut.
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Who knows how much I'll actually use them but it looks like a nice idea instead of fully doorless.
 
really love the progress you've made. there is an unrivaled sense of pride when you can get into something that you've poured that much of yourself into, and not only start it and drive it, but is a great source of pleasure as well.

great job!
 
Looks real good. Roll axis looks much better with the lowers triangulated more. It'll be a rolly polly pig on the street with the first one.

Also, did you use flex joints on all of your front arms? If you did the bottom link will roll around and make the upper flop side to side. I can roll so much it'll hit the d-shaft.
 
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