Project New Gen Comanche

My preference is, firstly, a "Sawzall" and then a rotary tool with a cut off wheel as the second choice. In both cases, I like to wrap a wet shop rag around the coil near the cut to capture the heat.

Also, it makes a difference where the cut is made as the springs are progressive. Take the cut out of the top will preserve the ride characteristics, taking it from the bottom will firm the ride. By a bunch...

Flores has hit the proverbial nail directly on the head. Heat will take the temper out of the spring.
 
It happens faster than you would think, too, regular steel loses half its strength by 500C. I don't know how that compares to spring steel but probably a bit higher.

That being said, it probably only detempered the last quarter or half turn of the spring, which should all be in contact with the perch anyways, so I am not sure it will matter. If it bends or breaks, oh well, find another set of stock coils to chop up. No shortage of those out there.
 
Troy, those spacers might require you to use security lug nuts and the corresponding special socket. I've ran into that before with aluminum wheels where the opening is so small you can't use a regular lug nut and socket.
 
Did you really cut with a torch or plasma?:twak:

Yep. I'm with Ken on this subject. The plasma created LESS heat than if i'd cut them with a wheel. I was able to touch the coils immediately after cutting them and they were barely warm. The heat was kept to maybe an inch either side of the cut. I'm not worried.

Dave is right about the ride.... I cut the bottom and these got stiffer. Which is a good thing.

Troy, those spacers might require you to use security lug nuts and the corresponding special socket. I've ran into that before with aluminum wheels where the opening is so small you can't use a regular lug nut and socket.

Yep. The company said they sent the wrong nuts. I just received the correct keyed nuts and socket. :thumbup:

So, it looks like number 4 is the racer, but which from the list is getting the dually treatment?

The gray long bed Pioneer.
 
Dropped the rear. 3" block for now. I may play with removing the overload leaves and the mid-leaves to see how it sets and go with a 1.5"-2" block this summer. I've learned that the rear sway bar from a ZR1 Blazer, the stock links from a WJ and XJ rear link brackets makes a sweet setup. So I plan to get that fabbed up, then I'll play with the leaf packs & blocks.

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I'm probably gonna have to shorten that load sensor valve rod...... lol.

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I've got the WJ links if you need them.
 
If your experience is like mine you are going to want a traction bar BAD now.

I had 2" lowering blocks combined with my 4.5" SUA leaf packs originally. It looked nice perfectly level while driving around empty, but it wasn't worth the hilarious axle hop/leaf wrap I got launching from a stop, driving over expansion joints on the highway, etc. I literally had to be under 10% throttle going over expansion joints to avoid it flopping around like a fish out of water.

I took em out rather than add a traction bar. On the plus side, being SUA, I just loosened the U-bolts one side at a time and popped them out, then tightened the U-bolts back up, instead of having to put the thing on jackstands :gee:
 
A traction bar is in the planning stage actually........ :thumbup:

Yeah driving characteristics leave a lot to be desired currently, but there's plenty of stuff needing to be done yet to pull it all together...... I just wanted to start playing with stance and appearance first off.
 
Stance is looking sweet, an air dam on the nose and side skirts would look cool.

Yep.

If I make one, I'm looking at doing a rubber sheet mounted to the bottom edge of the bumper and come around to meet the lower corner of the front flare.

The early S-10/S-15/Bravada air dams also look like they'd work well.



"Skirts" I'm on the fence about.
 
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Yella, whats wrong with the MJ you are scrapping? Floor rusted out?

I may have missed the engine plans, but is there going to be some sort of forced induction or V8? I would imagine going from an SRT Grand to a I6 Comanche would be less than impressive.
 
Yella, whats wrong with the MJ you are scrapping? Floor rusted out?

I may have missed the engine plans, but is there going to be some sort of forced induction or V8? I would imagine going from an SRT Grand to a I6 Comanche would be less than impressive.

Yeah, no title and bad floors. Bad front collision repair too it turns out. Scrapped it a while back now.

Engine plans for now will be stock. Should be plenty to get this thing moving, especially on short autocross tracks. We'll see how much I actually race this thing..... if I get uber-hooked, I might need to satisfy some speed and power urges down the road. Who knows. :dunno:

O-Gauge and Solarbell are working on some neato forced induction stuff...... maybe i'll be fortunate enough to do some R&D for them in the future.....:D

To be honest......... I've run the SRT8 on a short autocross course and it's WAY over powered for that. It handles like a dream, but it was SO easy to over drive it. The SRT8 is simply amazing on longer road courses though..... that's where it shines.
 
Ugh..... another one!

Sitting in a Cleveland OH pick and pull yard......... :banghead:

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Just plain SICK!

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Ugh..... another one!

Sitting in a Cleveland OH pick and pull yard......... :banghead:

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When was this? Because I might be retarded, and that's only 600 miles from me.

next question: Is this yard open Sundays or only Saturdays? Because I can be there at 8AM Saturday if I have to, but it will mean no sleep.
 
Yup! That looks like a D-44 to me. :)
 
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