Project Geosynchronous Orbit

Somehow keep the mj street legal and stuff a 4bt or v8 in it, PROBLEM SOLVED!
 
Not much of an update, but went to Ross's house tonight and plowed out the hub opening in the H2s to fit over the Ford hub.

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He did a sweet job and it took us about 3 or 4 minutes to do all 4 with his router and flush bit I think? No joke.
 
He did a sweet job and it took us about 3 or 4 minutes to do all 4 with his router and flush bit I think? No joke.

Colin bought me beer :D :kissyou:


That wasnt even nearly the biggest router my dad has and it KICKED ASS thru the rims :greensmok
 
How many months of talk did that take to get done? :moon:

Glad to see progress! What's next on the list, getting the rockrings welded on?
 
How many months of talk did that take to get done? :moon:

Glad to see progress! What's next on the list, getting the rockrings welded on?

Hah, yeah about like 2 months. It was just a matter of finding the right night where we were both free.

The wheels have just been a side thing. Maintaining my CTD and being sick, as well as Rocktober-Fest has been taking up the last 3 weeks of my time. My buddy who knows the guy that can TIG these for me is gone this week, but Saturday he said I could drop them off to him.

This weekend I'm hoping to have the stiffeners mocked up and done, since I only have Saturday to work on it. If I have some free time this week I might try to get a headstart.
 
yeah, been there... got absolutely xxxx all done for like the last 3 weeks.

What are you gonna do with the old axle out of the CTD? I'm sure it'd be perfectly fine offroad, though I have no idea how much it weighs compared to a 60/14FF.
 
Got the set of mid-stiffeners 99% done. Just have to notch out one/two more things and they're all set. Form fitted and all.

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I have to take off the undercoating along the rails, then start working on the crossmember. Hopefully have some time this coming week/weekend for that.
 
Oh, and in case you hadn't already noticed, MJ unibody/frame rails are quite different than an XJs.

They bend outwards about 6-8" after the crossmember, then bend back straight right in front of the front leaf spring hanger where it converts to frame. There are also two cab reinforcements that I needed to notch out.
 
So I had to reconstruct my "garage" yesterday after it blew over on Monday, so that took me half the day tying everything done and recovering it.

I did begin starting the crossmember, however I wanted to make sure I had enough clearance between my front driveshaft and the floor on full bump (like Rob had posted up before). It was close, but I came out with about .250" of space between them at full bump.

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Also, because the '85-'91 HP60s move the diff over the driver's side about 3" compared to a 78-79 HP60 I will have room for exhaust AND my slave cylinder/throwout fork.

:party:

Will start building the crossmember today.
 
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Also, because the '85-'91 HP60s move the diff over the driver's side about 3" compared to a 78-79 HP60 I will have room for exhaust AND my slave cylinder/throwout fork.

I never understood why people had such hard-ons for the 78/79 ones, the 80'/90's just provide that much more clearence and such. So what if its got a short tube to work with for brackets, easily solved. Is that the slave cylinder/throwout fork sticking out in the last pic?
 
Also, because the '85-'91 HP60s move the diff over the driver's side about 3" compared to a 78-79 HP60 I will have room for exhaust AND my slave cylinder/throwout fork.

:party:

Will start building the crossmember today.

I never understood why people had such hard-ons for the 78/79 ones, the 80'/90's just provide that much more clearence and such. So what if its got a short tube to work with for brackets, easily solved. Is that the slave cylinder/throwout fork sticking out in the last pic?


I've been wondering the same thing, and have been looking specifically FOR the 80's to early 90's D60.

glad to see and hear they not only work, but work well.
 
I've been wondering the same thing, and have been looking specifically FOR the 80's to early 90's D60.

glad to see and hear they not only work, but work well.

Glad to be of help. My only experience is with the one I currently have, and from seeing others in people's rigs out here.

Got the crossmember started and the stiffeners completely done. Used 3 of the stock nutcerts in the unirail, along with two nuts welded to the back for each stiffener (total of 10 bolts, all 1/2").

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Was aiming for a completely flat belly, but after speaking with a few people it's probably a good idea to have some of the 2x4 sticking below the 5/16" flat plates to help with the twisting the crossmember will see from the torque of the control arms.

I think I got pretty close though.

Anyway, at some point this week I'll probably begin welding the stiffeners to the rails. Going to be a whole lot of marking, cleaning, tacking, and stitch welding. Should be a blast :laugh:
 
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