- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
flat spots improve traction
Project Geosynchronous Orbit
- Thread starter MoparManiac
- Start date
only swampah's get flat spots rookie
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Driveways are treacherous
ktm racer 419
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ROW DIALIN
XXXXtortureeunich said:
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
So I'm going to leave the NV4500 as 23-spline output, which means that I needed a 23-spline input for the NP241.
I had an idea. After reading about people swapping in 6-gear planetaries from NP241s into their NP231s, I figured I could just use an NP231 input shaft.
Ken let me have some NP231 leftovers. It was behind a '96 AW4.
There are a few differences in the input setups on NP231s. This also applies to NP241s.
- Gear cut (early/late model. Year break was '94 I believe?)
- Input bearing width (16mm vs 24mm)
- Input shaft length
- Input shaft spline count
For whatever reason, the stars aligned and the input shaft out of Ken's NP231 fit perfectly once I swapped the narrow input bearing into the NP241 (same OD/ID).
Here's all the pics. None of it fully assembled, but trust me it worked :laugh:
3-gear vs 6-gear planetary
23-spline narrow bearing, late cut input shaft vs 27-spline wide bearing, late cut input shaft
Narrow bearing (16mm) over Wide bearing (24mm)
NP241 left, NP231 right. The casting of the NP241 is all around bigger, beefier, and has more ribbing/webbing/support.
Another thing to note is the beefier range fork of the NP241. Didn't have all the parts to try it in the NP231 for the stock drivetrain guys as a possible "upgrade".
So big thanks to Ken (kastein) for giving me this case. I'm going to look for an input shaft in slightly better condition though, but this confirmed my thoughts :laugh:. Thanks dude.
I had an idea. After reading about people swapping in 6-gear planetaries from NP241s into their NP231s, I figured I could just use an NP231 input shaft.
Ken let me have some NP231 leftovers. It was behind a '96 AW4.
There are a few differences in the input setups on NP231s. This also applies to NP241s.
- Gear cut (early/late model. Year break was '94 I believe?)
- Input bearing width (16mm vs 24mm)
- Input shaft length
- Input shaft spline count
For whatever reason, the stars aligned and the input shaft out of Ken's NP231 fit perfectly once I swapped the narrow input bearing into the NP241 (same OD/ID).
Here's all the pics. None of it fully assembled, but trust me it worked :laugh:
3-gear vs 6-gear planetary
23-spline narrow bearing, late cut input shaft vs 27-spline wide bearing, late cut input shaft
Narrow bearing (16mm) over Wide bearing (24mm)
NP241 left, NP231 right. The casting of the NP241 is all around bigger, beefier, and has more ribbing/webbing/support.
Another thing to note is the beefier range fork of the NP241. Didn't have all the parts to try it in the NP231 for the stock drivetrain guys as a possible "upgrade".
So big thanks to Ken (kastein) for giving me this case. I'm going to look for an input shaft in slightly better condition though, but this confirmed my thoughts :laugh:. Thanks dude.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
No problem, as you saw it wasn't in such great shape. :laugh2: In fact it got "stored" in the bottom of my scrapmetal pile for a year, outside. Thus why it looked like it came off the bottom of the atlantic. I'm glad it was some use.
eflores
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Greg's place
How did the little bearing that the main shaft rides on inside the input shaft of that ctd nv4500 look? I just had to do a full rebuild on mine due to munching that bearing. Main shafts are a bitch to change lol
FYI instead of running the gold plated castrol syntorq oil ($25/quart) u can run pretty much any 80w90 or 75w140 gear oil and run a couple tubes of friction modifier. It's for the synchronizers. Most people I know run 6 quarts oil (instead of 4 that it calls for) and 2-3 tubes of friction modifier. It sure keeps the temps Down
FYI instead of running the gold plated castrol syntorq oil ($25/quart) u can run pretty much any 80w90 or 75w140 gear oil and run a couple tubes of friction modifier. It's for the synchronizers. Most people I know run 6 quarts oil (instead of 4 that it calls for) and 2-3 tubes of friction modifier. It sure keeps the temps Down
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Small update.
Bought a JD2 notchmaster and SWAG Offroad swingaround arm. Works perfectly, but my drill died yesterday so I have to go out and get a new one tomorrow.
Between Friday/Saturday I got both driver/passenger side A/B pillar and bedside tubes notched and tacked together. Started on a rear crossbar to connect the b-pillars. No pics of that, I'll be working on this again tomorrow. Merry Christmas everyone!
Bought a JD2 notchmaster and SWAG Offroad swingaround arm. Works perfectly, but my drill died yesterday so I have to go out and get a new one tomorrow.
Between Friday/Saturday I got both driver/passenger side A/B pillar and bedside tubes notched and tacked together. Started on a rear crossbar to connect the b-pillars. No pics of that, I'll be working on this again tomorrow. Merry Christmas everyone!
chedisme
NAXJA Member
- Location
- middletown, NY
Are you going to put a bar that connects the A pillars at the top of the winshield? it doesn't look like you left room for one if you are?
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Not sure what you mean?
Plenty of room, just going to have to bend down to the a pillars.
Plenty of room, just going to have to bend down to the a pillars.
chedisme
NAXJA Member
- Location
- middletown, NY
I think I see what you mean. It just looks like you ran the tube higher in the back to run the connecting tube straight across, with no(or minimal) bends.
So in the front you are going to bend the tube on either side to run higher. it very hard to describe this stuff. Ill just wait and see what you do and tell you if I thought that was it.
So in the front you are going to bend the tube on either side to run higher. it very hard to describe this stuff. Ill just wait and see what you do and tell you if I thought that was it.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Haha yeah it is tough to describe.
The kick up at the rear came out of nowhere. I didn't plan it, just kind of happened and I like how it looks lol.
The kick up at the rear came out of nowhere. I didn't plan it, just kind of happened and I like how it looks lol.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Got two crossbars done yesterday. Gonna do the lower one at the bottom of the windshield as well as the spreader bars and the roof stuff tomorrow (at least as much of it as I can). The c-clamp is there to keep the a-pillar planted until I can do that bottom crossbar.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
look at mr fancy here with the perfectly matched rear roof crossbar... :moon:
looks awesome dude!
looks awesome dude!
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Hahaha thanks dude.
It was only 3 3º bends. Took me like an hour to make that bar, notches included lol.
The front one was a PITA. As you can see, I made it too long and had to cut it down and slug it :laugh:
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
Psh matching bends to body lines is for losers
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Dundy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taunton, MA
needs more triangles.
ktm racer 419
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ROW DIALIN
keep practicing for mine! i expect to show up. i will draw you a picture of what i want, and watch you splooge tube on my jeep
