Project: Freak of Nature

Well I guess I deserve what I get for not looking into it further when I tore the rear axle down instead just assuming. Looks like I will be looking for a new rear end for jeep. Current one I have is only 28 spline. Would atleast like to start out with a 31 spline. Guess I'm on the lookout for a new one.

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Yea I really should have payed more attention when I tore it all apart. Been going 15 different ways all summer. Now to find a new rear end.

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Everything i have seen so far has been for the big bearing. So if i swap out to go with 31 spline shafts, im looking at needing a new center section correct? Or will it just change with the locker that i put in there? Actually the guy that has the tires and beadlocks has also offered me a new 31 spline detroit locker and 31 spline shafts. If all i have to do is just slide those shafts and detroit into my housing and be done then that may be the way i go. But have also looked at picking up some alloy shafts for it as well and just keeping the stock shafts incase i break one.
 
Also, if i use an outside frame track bar mount will i have problems with it fitting? I know the coil and track bar mount share some of the same space but didn't know if it would be ok to move track bar mount towards front a bit and weld it on or if i should just buy like an RE or IRO track bar mount.
 
do they make 33 and 35 spline stuff that fits the smaller bearing journals of a factory 3rd?

i know the aftermarket world supports larger bearings for big boy stuff.



I'm not sure. I actually forgot about the bearings being different. Buying a loaded 3rd and shafts could get pricy too.
 
Also, if i use an outside frame track bar mount will i have problems with it fitting? I know the coil and track bar mount share some of the same space but didn't know if it would be ok to move track bar mount towards front a bit and weld it on or if i should just buy like an RE or IRO track bar mount.



The iron man and tnt mounts move the tb forward 1.25". The ironman mount is sweet too. I broke a RE mount in half without much effort.
 
I'm not sure. I actually forgot about the bearings being different. Buying a loaded 3rd and shafts could get pricy too.
35 spline cut to length chromos that take a standard set 20 bearing can be had somewhere around $200 a piece, seems pretty reasonable. semi float of course. its the third that get upwards or $2000 in a hurry.

the larger (factory) thirds take a 3.063" bearing vs 2.892". if i am reading correct, 35 spline spools are available for factory cases... but the third member itself is a liability if you are at the point of needing 35 spline stuff. now you are looking into high nodular thirds. 3.250" and high nodular is pretty much the industry standard for 35 spline, and of course you can go bigger from there.

i think a factory third and stock shafts would be a good start to get it on the road. yours may or may not work. idk... you would have to look for identifying marks or do some measuring. i recall my full width 9" having equal length shafts. just pick one up as a spare and load it up with a set 20. or chromos are readily available.

one thing i learned the hard way was that semi float shaft letting loose can do a number on the bearing as well. so having a spare shaft is useless, especially if it needs a bearing pressed onto the shaft.
 
Also, if i use an outside frame track bar mount will i have problems with it fitting? I know the coil and track bar mount share some of the same space but didn't know if it would be ok to move track bar mount towards front a bit and weld it on or if i should just buy like an RE or IRO track bar mount.

boostwerk's build has a nice outside the frame trackbar mount that i wanted to copy to get extra length on my trackbar. but with a waggy pitman arm and high steer, i could not physically mount the frame side trackbar mount forward of the coil and outboard of the frame without relocating the steering gear. EVERYTHING wanted to occupy the same space at full bump.

without high steer, you should be able to fit it. but minimal or no stretch may be the only way to keep the diff and trackbar from colliding (assuming a strait trackbar) and keep a good amount of compression.

mock it all up at full bump and see where everything fits. itll build itself. and set your trackbar significantly far away from the oil pan at full bump. i introduced the two this past weekend. lol
 
without high steer, you should be able to fit it. but minimal or no stretch may be the only way to keep the diff and trackbar from colliding (assuming a strait trackbar) and keep a good amount of compression.

Yea mine isn't gonna be high steer. Guess I will get the bracket and see what i can come up with. If I can atleast get everything going and working for now that will work. Can always change it later if need be. Just need to get it done and built by WF


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Picked up another housing and 31 spline 3rd member this weekend. Gonna use this one instead of the one i had.

Decided to throw the 28 spline housing and shafts up under the jeep to see how high it is gonna be and how the rear is gonna sit. Also put in the HD offroad shackle brackets in. As of right now I'm about 6ft 3in to the rain gutter. Anybody think this is to tall for 36's.
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The only thing I changed in the rear is added the shackle brackets. They flexed good with the 33's

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Well I'm getting new perches and spring plates from Barnes. I think they should let me move it back an inch or 2.

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i am at about 6' to my drip rail. i would lay that shackle down a little more and call it good. youll have great compression where your at, but youll be bump stopping a lot to keep the tire out of the top of the wheel arch. no use in bump stopping useable travel. support the jeep on jack stands and hang the axle, see how much droop you are getting where your at. people go nuts over the 45 degree thing... but i found that more of a guideline than gospel. i couldnt make use of the full compression stroke at 45 degrees.

now is the time to start thinking about shocks. to get the most out of the leafs, i opted to lay the shackle down past 45 and only have about 5" of compression. i found that a super long compression stroke from ride hight meant you needed a really short body shock (assuming you are trying to raise the lower shock mount and arent going through the floor) that severely limits droop. i wanted more droop... with a little compromising i was able to stuff a 10" shock in there and still raise my shock mounts significantly.

and i wouldnt go crazy stretching it unless you plan on doing sheet metal work. the stock shock mounts dont like it. and the axle will move rearward as it compresses. your already trying to stuff a big tire in a notoriously small wheel well. if its going to rub a little at full bump, id rather it be in the front. itll be a "softer" rub that in the rear of the fender.
 
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something interesting i also noticed when i installed my 9... the pinion is indeed longer. but because of the high hypoid offset i actually needed a longer driveshaft rather than shorter like i had though. curious if you find the same thing.
 
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