Project Downward Spiral

Meant it as a compliment, you know this. :) Really though..throughout the build, you've been taking the position of "I could have bought ______ but I didn't like ________ and I realized I could _________ so this weekend I _________" and it's all coming out amazingly well... Keep it up buddy :) One of these Saturdays I'll make it down to your place to give you a hand with it if ya need. Moral support if nothing else hehe
 
where'd you get your seats and for how much?
I got them from Lincoln on here, great guy. Tell him Bill sent you. :wave1:
Well, they weren't cheap, but after seeing some of the "lesser seats" first hand I just couldn't bring myself to get them. I hadn't ever seen Beard seat before, but Lincoln assured me they were top notch. He could not have been more correct. The difference between these and the "others" is amazing. The fabric is pulled tight and even, the stitching is spot on, you can't feel any of the frame, the cushion is just right, made in the USA therefore not some imported junk... I could go on.
Anyway, I'd rather not post what I paid for them, but if you really want to know PM me. It was tax return money. I could have gotten the axle shafts I needed, but the little lady that controls me and my funds told me to "treat" myself and to get something that matched the harnesses she had bought for me. :laugh:
 
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Saw the seats last night....When I'm in the market for seats, all I'll be researching is color options. Between these and other seats I've seen, there seriously is no contest. Rig is looking good too Bill :)
 
Thanks for the props guys!

Didn't get much done this weekend as I spent most of it cleaning the yard. Still a ton of stuff down from that ice storm in December. :(
I did get the cage all figured out and I'll be placing a very large order for some DOM tubing mid-next week.

I've had the links and the suspension done for about a week or so now. The mounts are all welded in place (minus the rear lowers as those are getting tied into the cage). Front is complete minus shafts, steering, and brakes; rear is complete minus shafts, bumpstops, and brakes.

Here's how the front upper mount turned out. It should be pretty easy to cover and still have the "sealed" effect I'm looking for. The passenger will loose a bunch of foot space, but thats the cost of getting it setup right. :D

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Here is a full side profile shot at ride height for those who requested it. Keen eyes will note the rear axle is about 1" below ride height, sorry I needed the good jackstands for something else.. ;)

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Next weekend I'm moving back to the rear to continue on the rear wheel well and hatch area.
 
Well, since Bill can never seem to post more then 2 pictures in any of his updates, I thought I'd share some spy pics I got when I visited Friday:D. Like always, Bill's got some badass stuff going on. A little birdie told me 160 ft of 1.75" x 0.120" wall DOM is getting ordered very soon.


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Well, since Bill can never seem to post more then 2 pictures in any of his updates, I thought I'd share some spy pics I got when I visited Friday:D. Like always, Bill's got some badass stuff going on. A little birdie told me 160 ft of 1.75" x 0.120" wall DOM is getting ordered very soon.
Haha... thanks Ross!
It'll be more like 220-240ft for just myself. That's why there'll be an extra half week in there before I order, I need the next paycheck to front all this. PM inbound in a few minutes.

Oh, those front upper shock mounts have an additional added brace. They are now done as well as the engine bay which got painted. I just forgot to snap pictures. :shhh:

For those wondering about the length of the shocks versus where the lower mount is, that's what I'm explaining in the picture below it. That mount is getting cut off and I'll be welding on a set of tabs about where I am pointing.
 
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220ft sounds like much (never mind 240).

Might I suggest 1.5" .188 wall DOM in all the 'exposed' areas and use HREW 1.5" 120 wall everywhere else (save some $$$). .188 wall DOM can take a good bit of pounding and will still look 'ok' after a couple of years as .120 shows signs of 'age' far earlier. If you take a look at Goat's rig, I think it took them 160 feet and mostly .188 to do it (hopefully he'll chime in here).
 
220ft sounds like much (never mind 240).

Might I suggest 1.5" .188 wall DOM in all the 'exposed' areas and use HREW 1.5" 120 wall everywhere else (save some $$$). .188 wall DOM can take a good bit of pounding and will still look 'ok' after a couple of years as .120 shows signs of 'age' far earlier. If you take a look at Goat's rig, I think it took them 160 feet and mostly .188 to do it (hopefully he'll chime in here).
Well it has to remain 1.75" as that is the die I have.
220ft is a lot, it is an overshot. I estimated 182ft for the cage and the rear reconstruction. Then there is the issue that some pieces need to be continuous; so I can't get a 15ft, 15ft, and a 10ft out of just two 20fts, meaning I'll need three. Then I added 20% for possible mistakes (hopefully not though). Really that gives me about 218ft, so 220ft is probably what I'll order.

The cost difference between the quote I got for DOM vs HREW is minimal and I'll just stick to the DOM.

You have a good point with 0.188 wall is better for some of the "exposed" areas, I agree. I'll have to go back and see what I can get away with for some of that. Heck, I do still have about 12ft of 1.75 0.375wall left. :gag:
 
Heck, I do still have about 12ft of 1.75 0.375wall left. :gag:

i thought you were building a cage, not a tank :spin1:
 
i thought you were building a cage, not a tank :spin1:
I am. I was kidding about that, it is what is left over from some of the links. Way overkill for anything to do with the cage. I only have it as it was cheaper to get a full length over two cut pieces and then have to pay the cut and small quantity fees.
 
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I just spent the better part of an hour going threw this build thread.... WOW this thing is going to be amazing.. Any info on your idea of the front shock hoops would be great.. I am liking the small profile, but will they be tied into the cage? Kinda curious that way.. keep up the great work..
 
i'm looking ahead... plans for a fuel cell and where it is going to go? is it going in before or after the cage?
 
I just spent the better part of an hour going threw this build thread.... WOW this thing is going to be amazing.. Any info on your idea of the front shock hoops would be great.. I am liking the small profile, but will they be tied into the cage? Kinda curious that way.. keep up the great work..
Thanks!
I'll snap some pictures of the competed mounts next weekend. There is an addition brace on them from what you see above. I've been debating tying them into the cage, but I've got to come up with a good way to do so.
The whole reasoning behind the small profile was so that I didn't have to create some huge hoops in the engine bay and relocate everything. I've seen the compete hoops done in the past very successfully, but when I dug into it I really didn't see much of a way to do them with reworking everything in there. As it sits now the only thing I'll have to relocate is the coolant overflow. It'll take up the battery area and the battery will get moved into the passenger compartment. The 100-ish degree bends are welded to the top of the coil spring mount, which was plated with 1/8" before. Then those quick braces you see above, plus an addition pair on the sides. It is more of an experiment than anything, I havn't seen anyone do anything quite like this so I'm not sure how it'll work out. I do know that I can put a 4.5' pipe on it and I can't flex the mount at all, so I think I should be ok. If not, I'll play to win the lottery, cut it all off, and start over with coilovers. :D

Did that answer anything or did I just ramble a huge mess?

i'm looking ahead... plans for a fuel cell and where it is going to go? is it going in before or after the cage?
I'm not totally sure yet.
I'm looking at a poly cell, something about 12 to 15 gallons with a sump and an external electric pump. I've been looking over them the past week or so and have it narrowed down to a few, once I decide I'll make a cardboard mockup of it (cause I can't afford to just buy it now). It'll go inside just before the hatch; mounted to the cage and should be an integral part of it.
 
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Thanks!
I'll snap some pictures of the competed mounts next weekend. There is an addition brace on them from what you see above. I've been debating tying them into the cage, but I've got to come up with a good way to do so.
The whole reasoning behind the small profile was so that I didn't have to create some huge hoops in the engine bay and relocate everything. I've seen the compete hoops done in the past very successfully, but when I dug into it I really didn't see much of a way to do them with reworking everything in there. As it sits now the only thing I'll have to relocate is the coolant overflow. It'll take up the battery area and the battery will get moved into the passenger compartment. The 100-ish degree bends are welded to the top of the coil spring mount, which was plated with 1/8" before. Then those quick braces you see above, plus an addition pair on the sides. It is more of an experiment than anything, I havn't seen anyone do anything quite like this so I'm not sure how it'll work out. I do know that I can put a 4.5' pipe on it and I can't flex the mount at all, so I think I should be ok. If not, I'll play to win the lottery, cut it all off, and start over with coilovers. :D

Did that answer anything or did I just ramble a huge mess?

Yes it helps a lot.. I have been toying with that same idea, but don't need a huge shock hoop protruding threw my hood.. I was curious on how to brace them properly from flexing or ripping the inner fender well off.. Thanks for the info..
 
I'm looking at a poly cell, something about 12 to 15 gallons with a sump and an external electric pump. I've been looking over them the past week or so and have it narrowed down to a few, once I decide I'll make a cardboard mockup of it (cause I can't afford to just buy it now). It'll go inside just before the hatch; mounted to the cage and should be an integral part of it.


Hey Bill, what about just running a stock setup? I mean, you'd deffinently save some money and shouldn't be that hard to mount where ever you want.
 
Hey Bill, what about just running a stock setup? I mean, you'd deffinently save some money and shouldn't be that hard to mount where ever you want.
The only thing left usable from the stock setup is the pump assembly, everything else was either trashed by the accident or needs to be replaced do to age anyway.
I looked into the aftermarket tanks that can be modified for the stock setup, but I don't like the idea of an aluminum tank right behind my seat and it really isn't much more money at that point to just buy an external pump and regulator.
 
i have a stock tank/pump you're welcome to :)
 
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