foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
arty:
Project Downward Spiral
- Thread starter RCman
- Start date
arty:
5spd_xj
<<the good ol days
- Location
- Dracut, MA
Hey, Bill... If you'll be working on it tomorrow I'll be free after about 10 if you'd be able to use any help... Just give me a call in the morning and let me know what's goin on
asp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westport, MA
So I got some figuring done today and I had someone remind me to take some pictures along the way.
gee who could that be? :compwork:
thanks for taking care of the measurements for my rockers :cheers: that's exactly what i was looking for. and i'll be doing the same thing whenever i get around to it... let me know how it goes for you.
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
Remember that under articulation, the tire will get more into the fender than it will on straight bump - because the bumpstop isnt out where the tire is, the axle pivots on the bumpstop.
I always check linkage and body clearance at:
Full bump both sides
Full Droop both sides
Driver stuffed, passenger on the limit strap
Passenger stuffed, driver on the limit strap
Ya, I guess I didn't explain it well nor did I post the correct picture to really depict what was going on. The first picture is at full bump driver's and ride height passenger. Not really sure why I posted that picture, I was tired last night.
Full bump (5.5" travel up) both sides I have plenty of clearance.
Full droop (6" travel down) I have a mile.
Combination; when I took the second (the one you quoted) and third pictures I was at full bump on that side (driver's) and full droop on the passenger's. I do know that there will probably be some sidewall flex and the tire will change shapes and I might end up hitting something there, but it is absolute worst case scenario and they won't be sharp edges.
I'll get some better pictures up in a few minutes.
I'll also show the interesting issue I'm going to have with the panhard.
Oh and thank you. I appreciate the checks on my setup!
Ok, hopefully these pictures explain the mess I started. Sorry about that!
(I tried to take all these shots at the same angle and height so they should be close)
Here is the axle at full bump/compression (5.5" travel up) on the driver's side and full droop (6" travel down) on the passenger's:
Here is the axle at full bump (5.5" travel up) both sides:
For comparison, full bump driver's (5.5" travel up) with ride height (0" travel" passenger, this is the same picture above that started the confusion:
Now this is were the panhard issue gets interesting. As you can see at full bump I won't have any clearance with the RE bracket I was hoping to use. I think I might section it and raise it up, or just start over with a new one.
The string will be the height of the tierod. Disregard the pitman arm, that is disappearing.
I didn't really work on the steering much as I'm aiming to get the rockers done as that'll be holding up the cage. The steering is something I can always work out later and doesn't really have anything else depending on it at the moment.
(I tried to take all these shots at the same angle and height so they should be close)
Here is the axle at full bump/compression (5.5" travel up) on the driver's side and full droop (6" travel down) on the passenger's:
Here is the axle at full bump (5.5" travel up) both sides:
For comparison, full bump driver's (5.5" travel up) with ride height (0" travel" passenger, this is the same picture above that started the confusion:
Now this is were the panhard issue gets interesting. As you can see at full bump I won't have any clearance with the RE bracket I was hoping to use. I think I might section it and raise it up, or just start over with a new one.
The string will be the height of the tierod. Disregard the pitman arm, that is disappearing.
I didn't really work on the steering much as I'm aiming to get the rockers done as that'll be holding up the cage. The steering is something I can always work out later and doesn't really have anything else depending on it at the moment.
asp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westport, MA
how about incorporating a small bend in the track bar similar to the stock style in order to clear the top of the pumkin? a side shot would be handy too so you can see how much clearance there is front to back. what is the height of the panhard mount on the axle side?
just running with this thought, it would be better to put the adjustment of the panhard at the axle side if you were doing this because it would be the straighter end (by far)
what tubing had you planned on making the panhard out of? i'm sure it wasn't 1.75, but maybe you could bend up a small section of that and weld that to the rest... and the mount on the RE1665 is 2" wide... so it would clear that. just a thought. hope it helped.
just running with this thought, it would be better to put the adjustment of the panhard at the axle side if you were doing this because it would be the straighter end (by far)
what tubing had you planned on making the panhard out of? i'm sure it wasn't 1.75, but maybe you could bend up a small section of that and weld that to the rest... and the mount on the RE1665 is 2" wide... so it would clear that. just a thought. hope it helped.
Honestly like I kinda mentioned up top I havn't given it any thought yet, more worried about the rockers and the cage.
If you look I'd have to have a pretty serious bend in it to clear the center section. I'd rather not do this.
As for the axle mount side, again no idea or thought has gone into it. They height will be whatever I make it.
Adjustment is going to be on the frame side as it should be easier to access if/when it needs adjustment. Tubing will be 1.5" x 0.250" wall DOM.
As for the RE mount, I'm not sure if I am going to cut/section it or just start over from scratch. Either way I'll not be using the RE1670 brace I have and that'll get sold, but I want to figure out if I'm cutting up the RE1665 first or not as they could go as a pair.
asp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westport, MA
IMO, sell as pair and start from scratch. $ wise it's much more efficient. no need to cut up a 75 dollar mount..
vetteboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- morganville, nj
What would it do for your packaging if you ran the panhard the opposite way?
I thought about that, nothing says it has to drop down from the driver's side. I moved the bracket over to see how everything worked (it won't with the RE, but thats not a big deal). Seems like it if I moved the bolt hole location up a little bit (approx 2" or so) on the frame side I would be alright other than it might be kinda short. Unless I mounted it high up on the diff cover, which I'm still up in the air about whether or not I really want to do that.
I've really got to get the tierod and the ram in place before I can really see what kind or space I have to work with.
vetteboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- morganville, nj
It's been working out OK for Timmay for about a year now. :gag:
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Bill, what about using something like the Ballistic fab frame side bracket and jsut make the mounting hole only like 2-3" down from the bottom of the frame? The RE mounts like 5.25" down IIRC, so why not just move that hole higher up to clear the diff? Something like the first pics in this thread...
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=982973
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=982973
Ya, I just might end up doing something like that. His did turn out pretty well, I guess I was just concerned about the cover bolts. It means I would have to sell my SOLID cover and buy something else, but thats not a big deal.
For those that haven't seen Timmay's; Pic1, Pic2, Pic3
For $25 thats a decent mount but the problem with Ballistic's lies in where they only offer 1.75", 2.5", 2.63" mounting widths and the joints that I bought are intended for 2.0" mounting. If I end up not cutting up the RE one, I'll probably just fabricate my own or get a RuffStuff one if I need to sell the cover and get something else.
Whether or not I have it drop down from the passenger's or the driver's side I will need to make a new mount. I think I should be able to cut the middle portion of the RE mount out and that should give me the clearance I need. Like this super quick MSPaint edit (red lined section to be removed):
EDIT: Holy cow, I just looked up the price of the RE1665/RE1670 stuff, maybe I will just sell it and start from scratch!
Last edited:
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
yeah, with the price of the RE stuff, i'd just resell it. build a piece similar to the Ballistic one and be done with it. you can get the clearance you need height wise, and then even push the mount forward a little bit to help with clearance of the front on the 60.
Yeah. I'll hang onto it for now and when I get finished with the rockers/cage I'll use it as a template before I unload it.
That would be great, thanks!
asp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westport, MA
Clean Racing
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellingham, Wa
I was looking at the same thing with my 44 swap, but have ditched the Rubicon stuff and opted for this... That way I can move it forward away from the pumpkin..
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Panhard-Tracbar-Frame-mount_p_1441.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Panhard-Tracbar-Frame-mount_p_1441.html
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