Project Downward Spiral

My good friend Phil runs a poly bushing in his upper link, and it works good, but we keep an eye on it.

I see that you already ordered the new flex joint, and i'd go that route.

as I said above, I really like how my suspension feels with all hard joints - and it does 'tell' you really quick if a bolt isnt tight. :gee:

We should have been on a box of Cinna-Raisin Crunch.

I run rubber at the axle lowers, flex joints at the frame and where the single upper goes to the lower, and poly at the axle upper. I probably could put hard joints at the axle lowers, but I talk about throwing another upper on there.
 
We should have been on a box of Cinna-Raisin Crunch.

I run rubber at the axle lowers, flex joints at the frame and where the single upper goes to the lower, and poly at the axle upper. I probably could put hard joints at the axle lowers, but I talk about throwing another upper on there.
Rubber on the axle side? Most of the things I've seen run it the other way around and put the rubber/poly on the frame side and flex at the axle. Reasoning for difference?

The semi-finalized plan as of now:
Front Lowers: flex joint both ends
Front Upper: flex joint both ends
Rear Lowers: flex joint axle end, poly frame side
Rear Uppers: flex joint axle end, poly frame side
 
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Rubber on the axle side? Most of the things I've seen run it the other way around and put the rubber/poly on the frame side and flex at the axle. Reasoning for difference?

The semi-finalized plan as of now:
Front Lowers: flex joint both ends
Front Upper: flex joint both ends
Rear Lowers: flex joint axle end, poly frame side
Rear Uppers: flex joint axle end, poly frame side

It was radius arms. Two pins at the frame: no binding. Four pins at the axle: binding. Hard joints: no yield. Rubber bushings: yield. Now I have one radius arm and one longarm: could...should? run hard joints all around.
 
It was radius arms. Two pins at the frame: no binding. Four pins at the axle: binding. Hard joints: no yield. Rubber bushings: yield. Now I have one radius arm and one longarm: could...should? run hard joints all around.
Ah, that makes sense now. I didn't know it was a radius arm setup.
 
So how did the weekend go? I know ya had plans to work on it some...


??????????
 
he said he had some kind of exam today that he was studying for last night. i say it's a lame excuse for not updating. it's almost the weekend again. sheesh.
 
no kidding... well we can let it slide this time, as long as it's not a habit! :p
 
So how did the weekend go? I know ya had plans to work on it some...

??????????
Snow melted so I spent most of the weekend with the chainsaw.
he said he had some kind of exam today that he was studying for last night. i say it's a lame excuse for not updating. it's almost the weekend again. sheesh.
no kidding... well we can let it slide this time, as long as it's not a habit! :p
Thanks! :D
I also forgot to take pictures of the stuff I did get to last weekend. I'll combine it all into one update with this weekends. :laugh:
 
aw shucks! fair enough, gotta do what ya gotta do! :thumbup:
 
i don't buy it!!!!!!!!!! its a scam!!!!!!!!! i say we ban him until we get a good and through( not sure of the spelling ) up date!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL.....
 
at least i was nice and not threatening... :)
 
Alright... put down the pick forks! :wave:
Updates:
Someone commented on the attention to detail. I like to think that putting a little extra effort into things makes it look nicer. For example, my used 1330 u-bolt yoke for my rear D60 doesn't look to shabby after getting hit with the sandblaster and some paint! At least until I hit it with a rock. :rolleyes:
Cleaned_1330Yoke.jpg


Started mocking up everything in the front end to ensure clearances.
Brakes are a tight fit! The bleeder and the bolt the holdes the caliper on just barely hit the edge of the rim. I'll pick up a lower clearance bolt and have to look for a stubby bleeder. Other than that everything fits just peachy.
BrakeMockUp_Tight.jpg


So, being that I've already way over stretched my budget. What does one do for high steer arms when that person has no cash? Make some from 1" Plywood! :D
HighSteerArms_Wooden.jpg


Seriously though I couldn't afford, nor justify the cost of high steer arms so I'm making my own. I spent the morning mocking those plywood ones up checking for clearances and making sure the ackerman wouldn't be to far messed up.
Then I started working on some actual arms I could use and not plywood. They are coming from a piece of 4140 alloy steel that 1-1/4" thick. I can't see myself using some of the 1018 cold rolled stuff that the eBay ones do!
Then I spent a few hours this afternoon with the Bidgeport. Tomorrow I'll at least finish the arms up. I've got to drill all the mounting holes, a 1-7/8" hole for the spring to pass through, and chamfer the ends @ 9degrees to make up for the angle of the knuckle. This will allow my heim joints to still parallel with the ground. I've also still got to make some caps to go one them so that I can get some preload on the kingpin springs. No stock stamped ones for me.

Here's what they look like now:
HighSteerArms_PartialComplete.jpg
 
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Seriously though I couldn't afford, nor justify the cost of high steer arms so I'm making my own. I spent the morning mocking those plywood ones up checking for clearances and making sure the ackerman wouldn't be to far messed up.
Then I started working on some actual arms I could use and not plywood. They are coming from a piece of 4140 alloy steel that 1-1/4" thick. I can't see myself using some of the 1018 cold rolled stuff that the eBay ones do!
Then I spent a few hours this afternoon with the Bidgeport. Tomorrow I'll at least finish the arms up. I've got to drill all the mounting holes, a 1-7/8" hole for the spring to pass through, and chamfer the ends @ 9degrees to make up for the angle of the knuckle. This will allow my heim joints to still parallel with the ground. I've also still got to make some caps to go one them so that I can get some preload on the kingpin springs. No stock stamped ones for me.

Here's what they look like now:
HighSteerArms_PartialComplete.jpg

If you have a bridgeport, make a keyway somewhere and somehow. I have seen/heard/read too many times the hi-steer arms ripping off. A ram pushing 5000#+ force can easily sheer 4 1/2" bolts. The keyway will put your mind to ease as well.

It is the only thing I have left to do to my axle even though I have 5 1/2" bolts. :wave:
 
very nice sir :) and thanks much for a picture update! :D
 
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