asp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westport, MA
Project Downward Spiral
- Thread starter RCman
- Start date
Alright... I'm throwing everything I've done out the window. That looks like a rocking setup! Think I can still get my driveshaft to look like that with the stretch? :dunno:
:looser:
Begster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cape Cod/Boston, Mass
Haha, please tell me that the driveshaft is attached to the yoke using a piece of post that you would find holding up a street sign, cause thats sure what it looks like.
Mr.OverKill
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- the city of El Cajon
dont you mean front end?????? that red/ orange thing hanging down that says moroso would be an oil pan i believe!!!!this was on the albany craigslist a little while ago. 8 link rear, anyone?
Mr.OverKill
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- the city of El Cajon
that is the rear steer from the 2000/ 2002 era ( i believe ) Chevy and GMC " Luxury " trucks. the idea was good in concept but didn't last long in production. they had like 12* of left and right turning to help in tight spaces for parking etc.....
asp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westport, MA
now that i've accomplished a fair amount in my build, i really see how much extra time it takes to maintain not only a quality build such as this, but maintain record of it. i wish i had more time to make a quality build thread of my own.
Thanks! It does take considerable time but it'll be worth it. After I got back from transforming the 3-link mounts from cardboard to steel all I felt like doing was eating and relaxing. Sorry I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow.
Got some work done on the 3rd link mount.
Last night I turned the carboard templates into 1/4" steel. Tonight I rough cut the opening for the link mount through the floor. My goal is to keep this as small as possible so that I can box it all in and still have a 'sealed' passenger compartment.
Disclaimer about the mount before I get attacked:
I do know it is tall. Not pictured are plates that will completely box in the mount as well as a piece that will brace the middle.
The joint pictured is not the joint I'll be using, it will get a Summit Machine flex joint when they arrive. I just needed something to mock the width up.
View from the top, please excuse the rough cuts they will get cleaned up.
View from the underside, again please excuse the rough cuts they will get cleaned up.
View looking directly at it from the axle side mount. As you can see I should have plenty of room one I remove the stock upper mount.
Also I threw the metal inserts for the RE bushings in the lathe and opened the 10mm hole up to 1/2". This will allow me to run a much large and stronger bolt.
Last night I turned the carboard templates into 1/4" steel. Tonight I rough cut the opening for the link mount through the floor. My goal is to keep this as small as possible so that I can box it all in and still have a 'sealed' passenger compartment.
Disclaimer about the mount before I get attacked:
I do know it is tall. Not pictured are plates that will completely box in the mount as well as a piece that will brace the middle.
The joint pictured is not the joint I'll be using, it will get a Summit Machine flex joint when they arrive. I just needed something to mock the width up.
View from the top, please excuse the rough cuts they will get cleaned up.
View from the underside, again please excuse the rough cuts they will get cleaned up.
View looking directly at it from the axle side mount. As you can see I should have plenty of room one I remove the stock upper mount.
Also I threw the metal inserts for the RE bushings in the lathe and opened the 10mm hole up to 1/2". This will allow me to run a much large and stronger bolt.
t_aldrich
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woburn, MA
sexy
muduck18
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Geigertown, PA
SAL said:
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Awesome...
Yours is coming out even better than I envisioned it being...
Yours is coming out even better than I envisioned it being...
Isn't it? :lickout:muduck18 said:
Haha... thanks. Work shall continue tonight. Not sure if I'm gonna make the link end for the axle side of the 3rd link or if I'm gonna start the gearing. I guess it'll depend on how cold it is.
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
This concerns me.Also I threw the metal inserts for the RE bushings in the lathe and opened the 10mm hole up to 1/2". This will allow me to run a much large and stronger bolt.
are you only going to run 1 upper link? Why the bushing? I fear that with the bushing in the upper link, you will have too much play in the upper link that controls the torque loading of the axle - and you'll notice it 'load up' and the pinion angle and caster angles will change rapidly with the torque...
I run all hard joints in my front suspension (including in the shocks) and LOVE it - I think the arm geometry is FAR more important than the bushings in the NVH (noise vibration and harshness) considerations...
I'd encourage you to re-think using a bushing in a 3 link with panhard style suspension.
vetteboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- morganville, nj
x2. Especially the point about NVH - I've said that same thing on a few occasions. As long as everything is tight, anyway...it lets you know very quickly if you've got a loose bolt or joint somewhere. ?D
I'd also recommend against the bushing, but if you're gonna stick with it, try and make the hole bigger. I'd want at least a 9/16 or 5/8 bolt through there...that way when you do give up on the bushing eventually, you're not stuck with a dinky little heim joint to replace it.
I've got to stop reading 
before I go to bed. 
I laid awake trying to think of something else to do.
You do make good points about the rubber bushing and after looking at it again this morning, I think you are both right. The rubber would just be too soft of a compound with all that force the one upper link sees. As far as the bolt size goes, 1/2" is the largest that I'd feel comfortable with as after the next down with a 9/16" bolt it would leave a 0.071" wall thickness.... no good at all.
I do have some 'medium sized' poly bushings that are 1-7/8" OD, 2-5/8" mounting, and 9/16" bore for the bolt. Granted I know that that is still not a hard joint, but the poly is much firmer than the rubber (at least in "on the bench feel"). I'd change the axle end mount around to the more "conventional" style so that the poly bushing would be on the end of the link making it much easier to swap it out for a flex joint at a later date if need be. This would give me one end with a flex joint and one end with the poly. I could mount the link either way so that the flex joint could be on the axle side.
So... what do you guys think about that?
before I go to bed. I laid awake trying to think of something else to do.You do make good points about the rubber bushing and after looking at it again this morning, I think you are both right. The rubber would just be too soft of a compound with all that force the one upper link sees. As far as the bolt size goes, 1/2" is the largest that I'd feel comfortable with as after the next down with a 9/16" bolt it would leave a 0.071" wall thickness.... no good at all.
I do have some 'medium sized' poly bushings that are 1-7/8" OD, 2-5/8" mounting, and 9/16" bore for the bolt. Granted I know that that is still not a hard joint, but the poly is much firmer than the rubber (at least in "on the bench feel"). I'd change the axle end mount around to the more "conventional" style so that the poly bushing would be on the end of the link making it much easier to swap it out for a flex joint at a later date if need be. This would give me one end with a flex joint and one end with the poly. I could mount the link either way so that the flex joint could be on the axle side.
So... what do you guys think about that?
Last edited:
tkjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- anywhere thats free
Cryke RCMan! Amazing, good work. Dont suppose you'd like to share the templates for the unistiffeners do you? When stiffening up the rails I'm not clear what you've done, the inside and bottom or outside and bottom or both? Looks great, keep up the good work.
Thanks!
Unfortunatly most of my templates end up getting cut up and reused to make other templates once I've got them in steel. Sorry.
So small updates:
After debating over and over in my head what to do with the 3rd front link bushing and not hearing back from anyone on my last idea above, I sucked it up and I've got another flex joint on its way.
As for today's progress on setting up the rear gears; I think it went well. I underestimated the time it takes to start from scratch with no old shims to start with. I've still got a little to much contact at the top of the teeth so I need to add a little to the pinion shim stack, but I'm beat now so I'll tackle it first thing in the morning.
Oh, and I got the steering parts in. I couldn't bring myself to buy the cheaper low end MWC rod ends. After doing some serious searching and numerous phone calls, it didn't make sense to save the $35-40 on the Chinese cheapos. So I gave Mike @ Summit Machine a call and he hooked me up really well on a some 7/8 Rod End Supply ones. Also got all the goodies to go with them...
After debating over and over in my head what to do with the 3rd front link bushing and not hearing back from anyone on my last idea above, I sucked it up and I've got another flex joint on its way.
As for today's progress on setting up the rear gears; I think it went well. I underestimated the time it takes to start from scratch with no old shims to start with. I've still got a little to much contact at the top of the teeth so I need to add a little to the pinion shim stack, but I'm beat now so I'll tackle it first thing in the morning.
Oh, and I got the steering parts in. I couldn't bring myself to buy the cheaper low end MWC rod ends. After doing some serious searching and numerous phone calls, it didn't make sense to save the $35-40 on the Chinese cheapos. So I gave Mike @ Summit Machine a call and he hooked me up really well on a some 7/8 Rod End Supply ones. Also got all the goodies to go with them...
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
I've got to stop reading
You do make good points about the rubber bushing and after looking at it again this morning, I think you are both right. The rubber would just be too soft of a compound with all that force the one upper link sees. As far as the bolt size goes, 1/2" is the largest that I'd feel comfortable with as after the next down with a 9/16" bolt it would leave a 0.071" wall thickness.... no good at all.
I do have some 'medium sized' poly bushings that are 1-7/8" OD, 2-5/8" mounting, and 9/16" bore for the bolt. Granted I know that that is still not a hard joint, but the poly is much firmer than the rubber (at least in "on the bench feel"). I'd change the axle end mount around to the more "conventional" style so that the poly bushing would be on the end of the link making it much easier to swap it out for a flex joint at a later date if need be. This would give me one end with a flex joint and one end with the poly. I could mount the link either way so that the flex joint could be on the axle side.
So... what do you guys think about that?
My good friend Phil runs a poly bushing in his upper link, and it works good, but we keep an eye on it.
I see that you already ordered the new flex joint, and i'd go that route.
as I said above, I really like how my suspension feels with all hard joints - and it does 'tell' you really quick if a bolt isnt tight. :gee:
