Progress on my attempt at a hidden LA 3-link

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I'll be cutting roughly a 6" X 8" hole so I can get at it easier for any servicing. Especially if I use an RE SF joint there instead of a heim. The RE joints need occasional retightening.

Guess you're advanced now :worship:

There's no need for that big of a hole. I doubt your that big you know. Seriously, all you might need is a hole big enough for the bolt. I don't think you can even get at the joint well enough in an easily accessible spot to tighten the screw while it's installed. Total removal from the vehicle is the only way to go for servicing the joint as I see it. Once the bolt is removed, you can pull the whole control arm out from the front, tighten the joint with the spiffy RE tool, grease it, and reinstall. You will however have to hold the axle in place to prevent it from flopping over with the upper arm removed. Jeff

 

[Roxtar]

There's no need for that big of a hole. I doubt your that big you know. Seriously, all you might need is a hole big enough for the bolt. I don't think you can even get at the joint well enough in an easily accessible spot to tighten the screw while it's installed. Total removal from the vehicle is the only way to go for servicing the joint as I see it. Once the bolt is removed, you can pull the whole control arm out from the front, tighten the joint with the spiffy RE tool, grease it, and reinstall. You will however have to hold the axle in place to prevent it from flopping over with the upper arm removed. Jeff

Actually, I designed my mounts so that I can tighten up on the joint without removing it. I left enough room to get a spanner wrench in. I don't do photo hosting so I will email you a pic to show what I mean.

 

[CRASH]

Now you guys know why I laugh so hard when I get PM's asking me if the kit is "bolt on" and when it's going to be for sale.

Can you imagine an instruction sheet that includes a template for cutting the floor, the LCA mounts, the exhaust, and hole-sawing the frame?

Most monkeys wouldn't get past the first page before their rig was molested beyond recognition!

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Now you guys know why I laugh so hard when I get PM's asking me if the kit is "bolt on" and when it's going to be for sale.

Can you imagine an instruction sheet that includes a template for cutting the floor, the LCA mounts, the exhaust, and hole-sawing the frame?

Most monkeys wouldn't get past the first page before their rig was molested beyond recognition!

You get the pm's about bolt on because you "joke" about it being "bolt on"! Duh! And what's to say our rigs aren't molested beyond recognition?! I know Brads was looking pretty molested after BOTW! Jeff

 

[Roxtar]

I know Brads was looking pretty molested after BOTW! Jeff

Naaa, she likes it rough.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Actually, I designed my mounts so that I can tighten up on the joint without removing it. I left enough room to get a spanner wrench in. I don't do photo hosting so I will email you a pic to show what I mean.

Well, I imagine it is possible to use a different kind of spanner wrench that can slip in from the side, but I still think total removal is a better way to service the joints. I've had a set of Currie JJ's on my rig for quite awhile and they never seem to take grease without total disassembly. Once it's out, one can grease them and rotate them in all directions to work the grease around. The Currie JJ's use a bolt that is drilled down the center and then has a hole in the side that passes grease into the cavity between the bolt and the inside of the ball. Then there are two holes in the ball that are supposed to transmit grease through to the races. However, the holes in the ball seem to get plugged on me and I have to disassemble the joint, clean the holes, and reassemble. Maybe I'm not greasing them often enough, but that has been my experience. Total pain in the ass. I'm hoping the RE joints will accept grease better from the outside. Jeff

 

[CRASH]

RE joints are far easier to grease. Just did all of mine last night, as well as tightened them up. They've been on, untouched, for 9 months and they each took 120-180 degrees of tightening. RE's seem to have an initial break-in period, and you mayh ave to re-torque twice, and then they are solid for years.

I use marine gease in mine, seems to flow better and last longer.

Well, I imagine it is possible to use a different kind of spanner wrench that can slip in from the side, but I still think total removal is a better way to service the joints. I've had a set of Currie JJ's on my rig for quite awhile and they never seem to take grease without total disassembly. Once it's out, one can grease them and rotate them in all directions to work the grease around. The Currie JJ's use a bolt that is drilled down the center and then has a hole in the side that passes grease into the cavity between the bolt and the inside of the ball. Then there are two holes in the ball that are supposed to transmit grease through to the races. However, the holes in the ball seem to get plugged on me and I have to disassemble the joint, clean the holes, and reassemble. Maybe I'm not greasing them often enough, but that has been my experience. Total pain in the ass. I'm hoping the RE joints will accept grease better from the outside. Jeff

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

RE joints are far easier to grease. Just did all of mine last night, as well as tightened them up. They've been on, untouched, for 9 months and they each took 120-180 degrees of tightening. RE's seem to have an initial break-in period, and you mayh ave to re-torque twice, and then they are solid for years.

I use marine gease in mine, seems to flow better and last longer.

So how tight is one supposed to make the RE joints? I tightened them up snug and then backed off to the first spot for that set screw. Jeff

 

[CRASH]

So how tight is one supposed to make the RE joints? I tightened them up snug and then backed off to the first spot for that set screw. Jeff

I would have gone FORWARD to the next set screw. At RE, they assemble them in a press, then use a torque wrench to tighten!

I usually go very tight with a breaker bar. So tight that you can't move the ball.

 

[Roxtar]

The only problem I've had with RE joints is that when they wear down you occasionally have to grind a little off the inside faces of the delrin races to create space between them for the grease to get in. (Although I would guess you should probably replace the races by the time you get that much wear.)

 

[OT]

The only problem I've had with RE joints is that when they wear down you occasionally have to grind a little off the inside faces of the delrin races to create space between them for the grease to get in. (Although I would guess you should probably replace the races by the time you get that much wear.)

Here's some of Brad's updated pics.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Thanks for getting those pics posted Terry! So Brad, am I seeing your crossmember correctly in that it hangs 2" or so BELOW the frame? Sure looks like it. Jeff

 

[Roxtar]

Thanks for getting those pics posted Terry! So Brad, am I seeing your crossmember correctly in that it hangs 2" or so BELOW the frame? Sure looks like it. Jeff

Yup, I'll never be fit for the WCGID crew.
Oh, the shame.

 

[bj-666]

Here's some of Brad's updated pics.

is that pipe in the background going to be the lca's looks like it should be strong enough for mud but in the rocks i would have to reconsider:laugh3:

seriously what is with all the trussing seems i didn't read all pages of the thread but is this guy running at speed or something.

 

[Roxtar]

seriously what is with all the trussing seems i didn't read all pages of the thread but is this guy running at speed or something.

Just doing all I can to get the turd polished to a high shine.
I'm running alloy axles, Jantz Superjoints,and an ARB so I'm trying to give it the best chance to survive.
One of the weak points in the 30 is housing flex. Well, this should keep that to a minimum.

 

[bj-666]

ha yea i guess so how bout the 8.8 just figured you would go crazy while ya got it out?

 

[ChuckD]

Hey kid just be sure to check the clearance on the lower truss.

Mine dented my oil pan. So far no ill effects, just thought you should know.

 

[Missiletech]

I plan on welding some steel to my d30/35 for the time being, what wall thickness do you set to for the axle tubes? I don't wanna toast through my shi$$nit. And what would be adequate for bracing material? I wanna do it good enough not to flex my tubes, as I noticed while a rear tire was lifted a while back.. that housing was whimpering, and I can't have any of that.. its all I gots for now. Thanks

-SteVe

 

[Roxtar]

I plan on welding some steel to my d30/35 for the time being, what wall thickness do you set to for the axle tubes? I don't wanna toast through my shi$$nit. And what would be adequate for bracing material? I wanna do it good enough not to flex my tubes, as I noticed while a rear tire was lifted a while back.. that housing was whimpering, and I can't have any of that.. its all I gots for now. Thanks

-SteVe

I used 1/4" on the front trusses and 2X2X1/4 wall sq tube on the rear.

 

[Missiletech]

still need to figure out wall thickness, if I'm GMAW the trusses on... and I used some 1/4" would I just set met welder to 1/4" material? Or do you have another idea in mind? Thanks.

-SteVe