Progress on my attempt at a hidden LA 3-link

[CRASH]

:wierd:

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[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Hidden/Missing 3 Link Northern WI LIVES! After another three day long work session with LATE nights, I drove the beast to work this morning with three long links. Initial reactions are that small sharp bumps that used to give a sharp jolt now just give a little thump. I like. Other than that, it drove pretty much just like it did before...which is good I think. Lower arms are at 11 degrees down and the upper arm is at 10 degrees down. separation at the axle is 8.5" and 7" at the crossmember. As for the tranny shifter, I trimmed a little of the tranny housing and rebent the shifter bracket to reposition it close to the housing. I then redid the lever to make it extend out 1" instead of 2" while keeping the length at 2". This made enough clearance between the shifter and the long arm.

I am finding out that adjusting arm length is a bitch. Wish I had right and left hand threads on either end. Initial settings showed the upper to be too long as when compressed without springs, the steering interfered with a few things. So, I cut the arm down an inch and reinstalled and everything seemed ok. With the springs in and the rig on the ground it looked good. However, after testing in the field this morning, the tires are hitting the rear of the wheel well when turned and there appears to be room in front of the tires. So, now I've got to readjust the length of the lowers AND go back to lengthen the upper. Fine tuning I guess. I'm getting a bit tired of wrenching though! Jeff

http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeEN2jZq0btmHq

 

[JerryV]

Looks good Jeff!

Can't wait to see it up close and personal

Jerry

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

So, you coming to Apple Valley? I cobbled together the upper control arm from my two old lowers and a piece of additional tube with the three pieces welded together. I need to get a fresh piece of tube threaded and was thinking you had the threading connection! Jeff

 

[JerryV]

So, you coming to Apple Valley? I cobbled together the upper control arm from my two old lowers and a piece of additional tube with the three pieces welded together. I need to get a fresh piece of tube threaded and was thinking you had the threading connection! Jeff

I will not be able to make Apple Valley.

I was hoping that the upper wasn't two pieces of tube butted together and welded. :hang:

I do have a threading connection and that would not be a problem. Price is right too.


Jerry

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I will not be able to make Apple Valley.

I was hoping that the upper wasn't two pieces of tube butted together and welded. :hang:

I do have a threading connection and that would not be a problem. Price is right too.


Jerry

Actually, why exactly is my welded tube so bad? Many folks run tube with welded in bungs in the ends and that's ok. What's wrong with a good weld in the middle? There isn't any real side load on this link. Many rear axles use butt welded housing ends. I don't intend to leave it in there as it was more a test piece to get the bugs worked out, but really, what is wrong with it? Oh, I adjusted lengths a bit last night and think I'm ok at 36" lowers and 34" upper. I would like to tilt the pinion up a bit more, but that takes away from caster, so I'm not going to. I should have built in a little more pinion angle during the d44 build...but I was sitting lower when I built that too. Jeff

 

[Roxtar]

Actually, why exactly is my welded tube so bad? Many folks run tube with welded in bungs in the ends and that's ok. What's wrong with a good weld in the middle? There isn't any real side load on this link. Many rear axles use butt welded housing ends. I don't intend to leave it in there as it was more a test piece to get the bugs worked out, but really, what is wrong with it? Oh, I adjusted lengths a bit last night and think I'm ok at 36" lowers and 34" upper. I would like to tilt the pinion up a bit more, but that takes away from caster, so I'm not going to. I should have built in a little more pinion angle during the d44 build...but I was sitting lower when I built that too. Jeff

There's nothing wrong with welding the tube. Just be sure to cut a good camfer into both pieces so you get the weld into as much surface as possible (you want to create a big "V" to fill with weld). The knock on butt-welding tube comes from people who just put two square edges together and then weld "around" the outside. That is basically just creating a section of tube that is very thin walled (just the thickness of the weld)

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

So kid, what's your progress report? I'm driving mine. Jeff

 

[Roxtar]

So kid, what's your progress report?

Did you get my email?
Got the front axle in, measured and welded up the LCAs, installed them and everything was good in the world.
Then I looked at the DS.
It'll hit the x-member LCA mount after about 2" of droop.
Apparently, clocking the TC is a needed mod with the URF 3 link without some inventive mount placement.
Hopefully that will solve the problem.
Ready for the UCA mount.
Then things really get fun.
Starting the rear, Fox air shocked, 4 link.
Yeehaa

I'm driving mine. Jeff

Bite me.

 

[CRASH]

I should have built in a little more pinion angle during the d44 build...but I was sitting lower when I built that too. Jeff

It's funny, people (not you) tell me my caster/pinion angle recommendations are too much, and then later, they always say this!

As far as I'm concerned, it's difficult to have too much pinion angle. Very easy to have too little, though.

CRASH

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Did you get my email?
Got the front axle in, measured and welded up the LCAs, installed them and everything was good in the world.
Then I looked at the DS.
It'll hit the x-member LCA mount after about 2" of droop.
Apparently, clocking the TC is a needed mod with the URF 3 link without some inventive mount placement.
Hopefully that will solve the problem.
Ready for the UCA mount.
Then things really get fun.
Starting the rear, Fox air shocked, 4 link.
Yeehaa
Bite me.

I must not have gotten the email as I haven't seen anything relating this progress. Perhaps I overlooked it? Anyway, what did I tell you about the driveshaft droop vs lower control arm placement? That's the key to this thing! I was a little off on that, but it will work fine. However, the way I built my system, I can get to the bolts for the front driveshaft at the t-case output just fine...without a t-case skid plate that is. Clocking the t-case a little was definitely necessary. Making the auto tranny shifter lever extend less from the side of the tranny worked very slick too. Same length throw, just less out from the side of the case. I actually cut the cable mount bracket in half with the intent to do more work, but when it came down to it, I welded it back together in a stock configuration and just bent the two ends a little to push it up against the tranny case more. I also trimmed a little bit off a couple webs on the tranny case to push the cable tighter to the case. There must actually be more room in some respects compared to Andy and Jes's manual tranny's because I am using a larg Currie JJ at the crossmember end and it fits with no problem. I can't remove it's mounting bolt without dropping the crossmember...or cutting a hole in the floor though. Good luck, Jeff

 

[Roxtar]

There must actually be more room in some respects compared to Andy and Jes's manual tranny's because I am using a larg Currie JJ at the crossmember end and it fits with no problem. I can't remove it's mounting bolt without dropping the crossmember...or cutting a hole in the floor though. Good luck, Jeff

I see from the pics that your x-member UCA bracket is wider (to mount the JJ) than the post that holds it. Will the bracket clear the DS when installing the x-member or do you have to put in the DS after the x-member is in place?

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I see from the pics that your x-member UCA bracket is wider (to mount the JJ) than the post that holds it. Will the bracket clear the DS when installing the x-member or do you have to put in the DS after the x-member is in place?

Well, I don't know! I put the painted crossmember up with the JJ in place and tightened down prior to installing the Driveshaft. I know it took a little contorting to get it in position near the exhaust with that hanger. I just went out and looked and would have to say probably not. Maybe without the bolt for the JJ in place, but I don't think the bolt will clear the driveshaft. I hope not to remove the crossmember very often since it now holds ALL the suspension mounting points...the one downside to this setup. Jeff

 

[Roxtar]

Well, I don't know! I put the painted crossmember up with the JJ in place and tightened down prior to installing the Driveshaft. I know it took a little contorting to get it in position near the exhaust with that hanger. I just went out and looked and would have to say probably not. Maybe without the bolt for the JJ in place, but I don't think the bolt will clear the driveshaft. I hope not to remove the crossmember very often since it now holds ALL the suspension mounting points...the one downside to this setup. Jeff

I guess you have a point there. With everything that's now involved in dropping the x-member, what's adding one more thing?
I AM definately going to cut out an access panel in the trans tunnel to be able to get to the mount from above. The idea of dropping the whole thing down to service that one joint is out of the question.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I guess you have a point there. With everything that's now involved in dropping the x-member, what's adding one more thing?
I AM definately going to cut out an access panel in the trans tunnel to be able to get to the mount from above. The idea of dropping the whole thing down to service that one joint is out of the question.

If you simply want to pump the joint with grease, that can quite easily be done from below. If, however you want to REMOVE the joint, then a small hole would need to be made in the floor board for the bolt to pass through in order to remove it from the mount. Jeff

Hey, who moved my thread!?

 

[Roxtar]

If you simply want to pump the joint with grease, that can quite easily be done from below. If, however you want to REMOVE the joint, then a small hole would need to be made in the floor board for the bolt to pass through in order to remove it from the mount. Jeff

I'll be cutting roughly a 6" X 8" hole so I can get at it easier for any servicing. Especially if I use an RE SF joint there instead of a heim. The RE joints need occasional retightening.

Hey, who moved my thread!?

Guess you're advanced now :worship:

 

[Paul S]

I'll be cutting roughly a 6" X 8" hole so I can get at it easier for any servicing. Especially if I use an RE SF joint there instead of a heim. The RE joints need occasional retightening.

Guess we're advanced now, huh?

I can't believe you're going to cut a hole in your floor, this Mod. is so not worth it.

paul

 

[Roxtar]

I can't believe you're going to cut a hole in your floor, this Mod. is so not worth it.

paul

Really?
A half hour (at most) to give me the ability to service the rear UCA joint without having to remove the entire x-member?
Worth it to me.

 

[Paul S]

Really?
A half hour (at most) to give me the ability to service the rear UCA mount without having to remove the entire x-member?
Worth it to me.

No, I mean the entire hidden 3 link isn't worth it if you have to cut the floor

Paul

 

[Roxtar]

No, I mean the entire hidden 3 link isn't worth it if you have to cut the floor

Paul

joke P Pronunciation Key (j k)
n.
1. Something said or done to evoke laughter or amusement, especially an amusing story with a punch line.
2. A mischievous trick; a prank.
3. An amusing or ludicrous incident or situation.
4. Informal.
a. Something not to be taken seriously; a triviality: The accident was no joke.
b. An object of amusement or laughter; a laughingstock: His loud tie was the joke of the office

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