Problem w/ PSC Hi Steer Arm

[AZcrawler]

After mocking up the drag link & tie rod on my Waggy D44 w/ my Poison Spider Customs hi steer arm (just on the passenger side - I'm still using the original tie rod mounts), I noticed that when I put the tire on, the TRE on the drag link was rubbing on the tire. This was on the mounting hole farthest from the ball joint. So I had to resort to mounting it in the other hole closer in. My concern is that I won't have as much leverage to turn the 37 X 12.50's that I'm putting on.

Has anyone experienced this? Maybe its my wheel choice? I have 15X8 w/ 4" BS. Would 15 X 10s help to get the sidewall away from the arm?

Thanks

 

[BlueCuda]

No that would most likely make it worse, you need less BS something like 3.5" or so.

 

[DaffyXJ]

or a set of spacers.

another issue is the turning radius. You need the distance from the center of the ball joint to the center of the drag link connection at the steering arm the same length as the pitman arm or you lose turning ability.

 

[vetteboy]

or a set of spacers.

another issue is the turning radius. You need the distance from the center of the ball joint to the center of the drag link connection at the steering arm the same length as the pitman arm or you lose turning ability.

No...if the drag link connection at the steering arm is shorter, you'll have more steering angle available from the throw of the pitman arm, at the expense of increased effort. Limited by the knuckle stops, of course.

I'm running a PSC arm on my D60 in the second-to-last hole, it matches the XJ pitman arm perfectly. I don't know if the hole spacing is the same as the D44 though.

 

[jeeperjohn]

If one side of the axle has the tre mounted closer to the knuckle than the other, then you will have one wheel turning sharper than the other. The tre should be the same distance from the knuckle on both sides.

 

[vetteboy]

If one side of the axle has the tre mounted closer to the knuckle than the other, then you will have one wheel turning sharper than the other. The tre should be the same distance from the knuckle on both sides.

The steering arm question is talking about the drag link, not the tie rod...the tie rod is staying in the factory spot if I'm reading the question correctly.

 

[AZcrawler]

Right...I'm talking about my drag link. Vetteboy, I looked at PSC's website to compare their D44 & D60 arms - the D60 arm has several more mounting holes than the D44 - I only have 2 holes on mine. The closer one to the ball joint is about 4" away, the other is about 6". So based on where you said you have your drag link mounted, and what I can guess from pics on the website, you're pretty comparable to where my outer mount is.

Are you using heims or TREs? What size/width wheels are you using? Backspacing?

Thanks

 

[vetteboy]

Here's the arm installed on the axle...

and not the best view, but a rough idea how it goes together:

I'm using the regular "1 ton chevy" (ES2223L/ES2224R or something like that) TRE's. Wheels are OEM Chevy, 16 x 7.5 I think, backspacing looks to be around 4" maybe. It's not excessively wide overall for a fullwidth swap. Tires are 13.5" wide.

Not sure how much of that will help in your case, but there it is.

 

[85cherokeechief]

I have the poison spider arm on my dana 44 also. I am not using the outer hole, but the one closer to the balljoint. My steering feels easier than it did with the factory axle and 32's, and I am hitting the stops on the front axle when i turn each way so I know I am using all of the available throw. I am not having any clearance issues with this one with 5" BS 17's, but I am also running heims instead of TRE's.

 

[AZcrawler]

Thanks for the feedback...I guess I'll just try running it as it is. Only problem is when its at full lock, the drag link is right in the space where the sway bar end link would be. Guess I can't have everything!