Posi + Locker? Is it possible?

krakhedd said:
What makes the Lockrite so much easier? (.
Click to expand...

The lock right/ no slip both made by powertrax and the detroit ezlocker only replaces the spider gears with an automatic locking or limited slip mechanism.

these can be installed without pulling the carrier and gears out of the axle. Some call these 'lunchbox lockers' because in theory one could be installed on your lunch break. It will probably take a couple of hours if you've never done it before.

other lockers replace the entire carrier, which means at the very least you will have to reset the ring gear and may have to adjust pinion depth as well.(much more work involved)
 
So basically, so long as there's no wheelspin, it doesn't lock? How much wheelspin must be induced to cause it to lock? How does it know one tire is spinning freely, as opposed to just in a turn? Plus, there's not much I can do to prevent the inside tire from spinning on wet ground, and I don't want it locking up mid-turn.........

Also, if I'm stuck, and I'm gassing it to get free (1 tire w/traction, 1 w/o), it will engage and jolt my dinky 8.25", right? With something around 215 crank HP, it seems like when it finally engages, it would snap the axle like a twig! And I don't think I could just let it idle there, or give it just a little gas, and get the locker to engage.

Please tell me if the unit is refined enough to accomodate all these circumstances. I can't see how it could be, but then again, I'm looking at it from a completely logical perspective, whereas you guys all have s***loads of experience with this stuff...
 
krakhedd said:
Yeah, I figured as much.

What makes the Lockrite so much easier (not to sound cocky - just very curious)?

I could probably find somebody I know who has all the tools, but I'll have to ask around first. $1000+ is WAY more than I want to spend. Hell, I'd have a problem spending more than maybe $500 for an Electrac.

Sounds like I should heed my extremely cynical (and practical) brother's advice, and just be a careful driver, so that I don't get myself into situations where I need a locker.
Click to expand...

The Lock-Right (and some others like it) is an assembly that replaces the cross-shaft, spider gears, and side gears in the differential - it is not necessary to disturb the gears during installtion. If you can remove the axleshafts and drop the differential from the case, you can do the lock-right

Most of the other Traction Devices (ARB, Eatons, most Detriots) actually replace the differential carrier with their own unit, which means that the ring gear must be removed from one carrier and installed onto another. This also means resetting the "contact pattern" of the gears, getting the main wear area close to the centre of the tooth face. While setting up an axle is a technical problem requiring specialised tools (as mentioned previously,) it is mainly a matter of practise and experience. If this is your daily "get-around" rig, it's not the place to practise (it would probably be cheaper to get a boneyard axle, take it to bits, and play about with it. Build your first "real" axle on a vehicle that isn't critical at the time - why do you think I have four XJ's?)

If you're handy with a wrench, you should be able to get a Lock-Right in in a matter of a couple hours.

I haven't torn a ChryCo down - but if it doesn't use C-clips, the best way to handle things like that is usually pull the axle shafts, pull the carrier, and do the carrier work on the bench. The crosspin has pretty even odds of being retained with a specialised bolt (easy to handle) or a roll pin (@$#)%(*@#()$*@()#*$). If the carrier can come out without being disassembled, it's a good idea to do it that way and save knuckle wear.

Anything else I can try to help you with?

5-90
 
From using this I have come to this conclusion. It is a all around excellent on and off road mod. It is fully locked when you are accelerating straight. When you turn it allows the inside radius tire slip. A spool will have noticable tire "chirping". Now if you turn with enough acceleration it will still be locked. I have learned to not accelerate too hard in turns, unless I want to get cool points for squealing my tires. On wet pavement it is touchy and very easy to fish tale. I'm not looking foward to icy roads, but then again I will have 4WD to compensate. Its a good addition to my DD that just takes a little of getting used to its "quarks". I give it :04of5:only because its not an ARB. :wave:
 
krakhedd said:
So basically, so long as there's no wheelspin, it doesn't lock? How much wheelspin must be induced to cause it to lock? How does it know one tire is spinning freely, as opposed to just in a turn? Plus, there's not much I can do to prevent the inside tire from spinning on wet ground, and I don't want it locking up mid-turn.........

Also, if I'm stuck, and I'm gassing it to get free (1 tire w/traction, 1 w/o), it will engage and jolt my dinky 8.25", right? With something around 215 crank HP, it seems like when it finally engages, it would snap the axle like a twig! And I don't think I could just let it idle there, or give it just a little gas, and get the locker to engage.

Please tell me if the unit is refined enough to accomodate all these circumstances. I can't see how it could be, but then again, I'm looking at it from a completely logical perspective, whereas you guys all have s***loads of experience with this stuff...
Click to expand...

You will be locked when the skinny pedal is pushed.
 
krakhedd said:
Also, if I'm stuck, and I'm gassing it to get free (1 tire w/traction, 1 w/o), it will engage and jolt my dinky 8.25", right? With something around 215 crank HP, it seems like when it finally engages, it would snap the axle like a twig! And I don't think I could just let it idle there, or give it just a little gas, and get the locker to engage.
Click to expand...
There's nothing "dinky" about your 8.25 axle. It's only marginally smaller (shaft wise) than the Dana44 and has 1 less spline.
I'm also using a Powertrax No-Slip in my DD. Yes you have to take it easy on the gas going around turns, but the added traction off-road makes up for any on-road short comings.
 
I have had two different no-slips in my 8.25. Both of them broke in Moab. I have since gone to a detroit and love it. It has pretty good road behavior once you get use to it. As long as you use 4WD in the snow, it does not slide around much. Spend the extra cash and go with the detroit!
 
Hey guys,

Sorry to bring this up again, but I am just curious. I spoke with somebody @ Detroit a couple of days ago, and he said they don't have an Electrac for the 2001 8.25" yet. However, upon searching for an app guide, I see it *should* be supported. http://www.tractech.com/docs/TT-List-LTPM1004.pdf page 5

Now, there should be absolutely nothing different between a 2000 8.25" and an 01, correct? I am just wondering, because if there is no difference, I will call them back and find out why I can't get an Electrac for my Jeep.

Thanks!
 
krakhedd said:
Hey guys,

Sorry to bring this up again, but I am just curious. I spoke with somebody @ Detroit a couple of days ago, and he said they don't have an Electrac for the 2001 8.25" yet. However, upon searching for an app guide, I see it *should* be supported. http://www.tractech.com/docs/TT-List-LTPM1004.pdf page 5

Now, there should be absolutely nothing different between a 2000 8.25" and an 01, correct? I am just wondering, because if there is no difference, I will call them back and find out why I can't get an Electrac for my Jeep.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
You might want to doudle check the page you are refering too. There is no model number shown for a Electrac for anyaxle other than a Dana44. There is no Electrac available for any axle other than that one.
 
I paid $250 for my D44 rear, going with a E-locker for $575(I want the open when not locked for the sporadick ice!) When you consider that 44 gears are way cheaper this whole setup will be stronger than an 8.25 with ARB's and all the air crap problems to deal with..... AND CHEAPER! (And easier to setup than an 8.25)

Anyone have any info to disagree? I have done nothing yet except buy the D44.... it in the garage.

Jason
 
I want to be clear here, I am not saying I am the know all, just trying to state what I THINK I have learned and looking for correction.

I assume parts available is about same.

I thought I had heard that the 8.25 is hard to set up the proper backlash etc, vs the 44 easy. Is this right?

Either way, I will have a selectable, with NO maintence (vs the ARB), a stronger axle, and a slightly better price!


Jason
 
No problem at all. I tackled my first gear swap earlier this summer and it was an 8.25 axle. It was fairly simple once I did a bit of reading and took my time setting up the dial indicator. I'll defer commenting on the d44 setup difficulty or ease of setup cuz I haven't done one.

The lack of a selectable electric locker for the 8.25 is frustrating for me and quite a few others as well. I'd like the idea of using the existing electrical system to power a locker instead of having to add a seperate electrical/pnuematic system just to lock the axles together.
 
I thought you had a tight budget. The Electrac is going to cost you more than $500 just for the unit, and it replaces the complete carrier so it will require setting up the gears again. And then wiring in the controls. I think it's safe to guess you'll be over $1000 to go that route.

However, I believe it is the only unit out there that provides a limited slip and a full locker.
 
Budget....such a cursed word! It IS, as you stated, the only availble hybrid though. Money can be set aside for this. :p

I was actually thinking about a D44 swap earlier today. I had heard something about taking a ZJ rear w/discs and swapping it in - when I'm not so tired, I'm going to come back and search for it. I'm going to need a stronger axle sooner or later, and may as well get it before I get the locker, since I'm pretty much set on the Electrac.
 
A ZJ D44 is a downgrade from your 8.25, not an upgrade. It uses an aluminum diff housing, which is prone to warp on the street and crack on trails, and the internals do NOT interchange with "real" Dana 44s. If you want the rear discs off a ZJ, swap the discs, not the entire axle.
 
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