poor mans stroker

Sounds like you know what you're getting. Just wanted to make sure you didn't get ripped.
 
thanks for looking out man.I need part numbers though because I am going to buy the parts and have them do the install and machining.cant find anyone selling what i need.
 
littlebluexj said:
But with my motor will i need this

4.7L medium-buck stroker

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Custom +0.060" bore pistons with 1.38" pin height & 25cc dish
9.6:1 CR
Crane #753905 204/216 degree camshaft
Ported big valve 2.02"/1.60" cylinder head
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.043" quench height
Flometrics F&B 68mm billet TB
Accel 26lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster for '87-'95 engines, Accel 26lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines.
270hp @ 4800rpm, 335lbft @ 3400rpm


This is what I have piston wise:


+.060 Childs & Albert custom forged aluminum pistons w/23cc dish 1.392 compression ht.
+ .010 deck on a stock 4.0 block = .042 quench (factory gasket)
.930 pin dia.

007_4.jpg


edit: I wish mine was a "poor man's stroker"... I've been building it for a few years now!
 
ok, so let me apologize for the hijack right now....
Sorry.
I'm looking at doing the budget stroker with .30 pistons, and a renix block. I'd like to put a HO head on it, casting 7120, because it let's me get a newer manifold, and flows better. My next question is the big one, I'd like to put the 99+ intake manifold on that head, the one with the long runners. Will it fit? Nothing I've found yet says conclusively that it will bolt on.
 
87manche said:
ok, so let me apologize for the hijack right now....
Sorry.
I'm looking at doing the budget stroker with .30 pistons, and a renix block. I'd like to put a HO head on it, casting 7120, because it let's me get a newer manifold, and flows better. My next question is the big one, I'd like to put the 99+ intake manifold on that head, the one with the long runners. Will it fit? Nothing I've found yet says conclusively that it will bolt on.

my understanding is that the head determines the intake choices...

I'm also using a 7120 head (massive porting) with the Renix seystem...

IIRC... All the HO intakes are interchangeable...

The tricky part of the equation is adapting the Post Renix TPS sensor to work on a Renix...

There's a few options including using a ported Renix throttle body on a HO intake...

but I decided to modify an HO throttlebody to work with the Renix sensor...

I can't testify to how well it works since it's not in final assembly but it test fits up nicely...

I think the 99 runners will match up to the 7120 fine...

Just remember the fuel rails need modifying and the TPS sensor issue if using the Renix setup
 
Good to hear. I was planning on adapting my TPS to the HO TB. Any pics?I don't actually have any of these part in my hand yet. Still in the research phase.
My current plan is following Dino's 2nd plan, with the 99+ intake runners. hopefully I can get away with 87 octane..
 
87manche said:
Good to hear. I was planning on adapting my TPS to the HO TB. Any pics?I don't actually have any of these part in my hand yet. Still in the research phase.
My current plan is following Dino's 2nd plan, with the 99+ intake runners. hopefully I can get away with 87 octane..

Try this thread...

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53049&highlight=tps+renix

Axle swap took priority over the uber stroker...

:D
 
yeah, I'm working on that myself. I've sourced a pair of axles with 4.10s in them, and one is the elusive AMC 20 that came in the 86 metric tonne MJ. Should be drop in replacements for my MJ, I may even take the metric tonne leaf packs if they're in good shape.
Nice work on the TPS. I'm gonna do pretty much the same thing. I may make a plate for more adjustment, but that looks like a bit of nice work with the dremel
 
Ok,guys and girls back to the "poor mans stroker" question on one reply can we sum it up.
Part Description $Price$
(1)Part # for crankshaft ?
(2)Part # for connecting rods ?
(3)Part # for pistons ?
(4)Part # for camshaft ?
(5)Part # for rings ?
(6)Part # for seal kit ?
(7)Part # for bearing kit ?
(8)Part # for gasket kit ?
(9)Part # for timing parts ?
Average price for machine work ?
a)bore of cylinders ?
b)milling of block ?
c)port and polish head and intake non HO ?
d)stock non HO TB bore ?

lets keep this around for everyone to use that wants to build their stroker on the cheap. Around $1000 U.S dollars, running 87 octange and using stock HO injectors.
 
I'm also interested in finding out who's got the cheapest stroker out there...

It probably involves using the 258 shorter connecting rods and silvolite/speed-pro pistons dished the appropriate cc...

Doing a lot of assembly yourself...

and re-using parts from the 4.0 donor...

for reference...

my machine shop bill was close to $1000 to have the block dipped, bored +.060, having the crank cleaned/cut .010 (?), and having the entire bottom end assembled and balanced...

I consider mine a "medium-buck" stroker (3K so far and not done yet)

Part Description $Price$
(1)Part # for crankshaft old 4.2 free
(2)Part # for connecting rods 4.0-6.125" $300
(3)Part # for pistons C & H Custom $600
(4)Part # for camshaft Comp cams 254* $150
(5)Part # for rings C & H Custom $100
(6)Part # for seal kit ?
(7)Part # for bearing kit clevite $50 (?)
(8)Part # for gasket kit Fel-Pro $50 (?)
(9)Part # for timing parts Cloyes tru-roller $125
Average price for machine work $800 +
a)bore of cylinders +.060
b)milling of block none
c)port and polish head and intake non HO 7120
d)stock non HO TB bore ?

It's the little nickle and dime stuff that kills ya...

You didn't include lifters, connecting rod bolts, head bolts, valve rockers, springs, etc...

If you have the skills and means to do most of it yourself and just have the shop bore or just hone it...

Then you might be under $1000

There's lots of stroker info here and in the Yahoo strokers group...
 
anyone else i really just need the part numder and where you got it. a little description and the price of the parts for what im looking for. I know you get what you pay for and I have a new rebuilt head 1000miles on it I really have no need to change it so the head is fine just machine work, parts, and such.

Has to be with in lets say a HIGH SCHOOL BUDGET!
1000 us dollors 1200 is the most i can spend.

I still need to fix my P.O.S. 242 TC it busted to. I only have 1500 for the entire thing and need it done befor spring break.
 
littlebluexj said:
anyone else i really just need the part numder and where you got it. a little description and the price of the parts for what im looking for. I know you get what you pay for and I have a new rebuilt head 1000miles on it I really have no need to change it so the head is fine just machine work, parts, and such.

Has to be with in lets say a HIGH SCHOOL BUDGET!
1000 us dollors 1200 is the most i can spend.

I still need to fix my P.O.S. 242 TC it busted to. I only have 1500 for the entire thing and need it done befor spring break.

They don't teach SEARCH skills in high school?

It's all here...

Look for it...

Good luck with your project...

maybe someone else can drop it all into your lap...

for under a $1000

http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
Part Description $Price$
(1)Part # for crankshaft old 4.2 free
(2)Part # for connecting rods 4.0-6.125" $300
(3)Part # for pistons C & H Custom $600
(4)Part # for camshaft Comp cams 254* $150
(5)Part # for rings C & H Custom $100
(6)Part # for seal kit ?
(7)Part # for bearing kit clevite $50 (?)
(8)Part # for gasket kit Fel-Pro $50 (?)
(9)Part # for timing parts Cloyes tru-roller $125
Average price for machine work $800 +
a)bore of cylinders +.060
b)milling of block none
c)port and polish head and intake non HO 7120
d)stock non HO TB bore ?

Why did you decide to use the 4.0 rods with custom pistons? I've been keeping an eye out for some time for 4.2 rods, are they really that hard to find? I could only find some in a few places that wanted a small fortune for them.

Seems like a good project, is it driving yet? Any impressions? Any changes you would make?

Thanks-
 
I am going to use a slightly different formula than what you are using but here is what I have found so far. My project has been put on hold temporarily but I have done almost all of the research for it.

Machine Shop charges:
Clean $55
Bore 30 over $90
Re-surface head $38
Valve job 3 angle $50
Cam, plugs, etc $100

I was going to all of the rest of the install work.
Parts are reasonably cheap except if you do not find a decent doner 4.2 crank and rods. You could spend an easy $500 on the two if you do not find a decent donor.

I think that it can be done for $1200 if the cheapest formula is used and the parts are bought at reasonable prices and the machine shop charges are reasonably cheap (mine above are VERY reasonable for my area).

But like has been said you can end up paying several hundred dollars in head bolts, gaskets, RTV, studs, etc, etc. This is what ends up putting most people over there budget.

Michael
PS. All of the part numbers have been provided on Dino's website for each formula.
 
SCW said:
Why did you decide to use the 4.0 rods with custom pistons? I've been keeping an eye out for some time for 4.2 rods, are they really that hard to find? I could only find some in a few places that wanted a small fortune for them.

Seems like a good project, is it driving yet? Any impressions? Any changes you would make?

Thanks-

the 4.0 rods are longer, making for slightly longer dwell time at TDC IIRC...

the longer rods also allow for good CR/quench and being able to run low octane with the proper piston choice.

I have a set of 4.2 rods and a 4.2 crank I might be inclined to sell. I had 3 4.2 cranks and the one I used needed the smallest amount of cleaning/machining (I had all 3 compared to each other)PM me if interested

Project's not done yet... The lower end is done including a Melling high volume oil pump and EVERYTHING is brand new...

The 7120 head has Mopar roller rockers but I still need some aftermarket springs,locks and retainers and a Hesco spacer to finish it...

I still have to find a cheap Eaton M90 blower tho.

MAYBE this summer

"any day now"

:D

Here's the full specs:

pre HO 4.0 block bored .060

258 heavy crank

Clevite bearings

New HO 4.0 connecting rods

ARP wave-loc connecting rod bolts

Childs & Albert custom forged aluminum pistons w/23cc dish 1.392 compression ht.
+ .010 deck on a stock 4.0 block = .042 quench (factory gasket)
.930 pin dia.

Childs & Albert performance piston ring set

Camshaft: (Intake/Exhaust) 254°/262° adv. dur.,
210°/218°dur. @ .050"
lift, .477"/.493" valve lift, 1000-5200rpm, 111° lobe separation

Cloyes Tru-roller timing chain

Melling hi-volume oil pump

7120 HO head w/ major polish & porting

1994 HO intake ported/gasket matched

MOPAR Performance 1.6 Roller Rockers

Flometrics 68mm throttle body
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
I'm also interested in finding out who's got the cheapest stroker out there...

It probably involves using the 258 shorter connecting rods and silvolite/speed-pro pistons dished the appropriate cc...

Doing a lot of assembly yourself...

and re-using parts from the 4.0 donor...

for reference...

my machine shop bill was close to $1000 to have the block dipped, bored +.060, having the crank cleaned/cut .010 (?), and having the entire bottom end assembled and balanced...

I consider mine a "medium-buck" stroker (3K so far and not done yet)

Part Description $Price$
(1)Part # for crankshaft old 4.2 free
(2)Part # for connecting rods 4.0-6.125" $300
(3)Part # for pistons C & H Custom $600
(4)Part # for camshaft Comp cams 254* $150
(5)Part # for rings C & H Custom $100
(6)Part # for seal kit ?
(7)Part # for bearing kit clevite $50 (?)
(8)Part # for gasket kit Fel-Pro $50 (?)
(9)Part # for timing parts Cloyes tru-roller $125
Average price for machine work $800 +
a)bore of cylinders +.060
b)milling of block none
c)port and polish head and intake non HO 7120
d)stock non HO TB bore ?

It's the little nickle and dime stuff that kills ya...

You didn't include lifters, connecting rod bolts, head bolts, valve rockers, springs, etc...

If you have the skills and means to do most of it yourself and just have the shop bore or just hone it...

Then you might be under $1000

There's lots of stroker info here and in the Yahoo strokers group...


I am well on my way to the cheapest one out there. I got my 258 crank and rods for free which have been reground already (casting 3214723 for the crank)

I work at place that carry's crane cams and accel injectors so i will get my cam and injectors for next to nothing. I will have to pay full price on pistons,( im still deciding on which pistons to go with. )

Im gonna have to pay full price on the engine work. Im only going .30 over and i will have the heads gone through as well. Im just sticking w/ the renix head, nothing to fancy.

I will buy the pacesetter header and i can just about run any exhaust out there because my work carries them as well. Other than those things i will re-use most of everything else.

ive been reading a lot, actually for the past 2 years so i think im ready as i will ever be. The engine was pulled out over thanksgiving weekend. Its geting torn down this friday and ill probably run out to summit this sunday and pick up my pistons and some other minor parts.

I also forgot to mention that my dads is a cnc machinist, he will be boring my throttle body out, cuting the snout on my crank and pretty much help me assemble my full engine. So i would say w/o the help of my dad, assembly would cost me the most.

Im hoping to have under $1000 in the whole thing, up and running.
 
In addition to this, if you want it done right, never put a budget or a time limit. I am lucky that i have another xj that i use for my daily driver. So if i dont have the extra money to buy that certain part, it can wait. My camaro has been on hold for 2 years now because i want to be able to do it right, not hurry up and slap it together. I put 1300 into my tranny and thats the last thing ive done to it ( mostly because ive built/ been building my 2 xj's.)

Thats just my opinion, and im sure others will agree.
 
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