pocketing frame for long arms...any thoughts?

88rockxj said:
have you seen a stock toyota cross member?


its hangs down probably 3 times as much as the stock xj one , it was almost flat it actualy hung down about an inch past the frame. it was also free as i made it out of what i had laying around. 3/4" sched 40 about 4 inches apart tied together 3 places with some 3/8" flat stock. it bent a lil and wasnt the best but like i said it was free and much better then the stock one.


my cross member on my xj is flush with the frame , its made out of 2x2 square 1/4" with the bushings at each side of the frame instead of in the center under the tranny.

so why did you move em up? to get em out of the way.....the point Im making you did that work to increase the clearance under the truck....same as pocketing the mounts into the frame to make the under side flat as possible . it is done to increase the clearance and remove possible hang up points..........no different than what you did on your yota just a different application. We all strive to make a flat bottom on our rigs
 
xjnation said:
so why did you move em up? to get em out of the way.....the point Im making you did that work to increase the clearance under the truck....same as pocketing the mounts into the frame to make the under side flat as possible . it is done to increase the clearance and remove possible hang up points..........no different than what you did on your yota just a different application. We all strive to make a flat bottom on our rigs


actualy it would be like me doing all the work i did but only move it from hanging down about 4 inches to about 3 1/2 . but i knew what you were leading into and i already agree on the clearance, just a personal opinion that if i wanted the clearance i would do it correctly/better by mounting them inboarded next to the frame like the tnt kit, and no i would never buy a tnt kit even if i wanted that clearance.


you really dont like my opinion do you ?? lol thats alright ive been getting that alot around here.
 
88rockxj said:
lol thats alright....

Your starting to catch on. That was what XJEEPER was pointing you towards with "so I suggest more armor if you're going to continue driving this line". Build the skin a little thicker. Don't worry about what I called you because you'll get your chance to point it back my way.

Personally I was looking hard at the pocket idea in a different way. By creating a channel in the frame it is easier to get the arms to clear without having to bend them or mount them further inboard. I was thinking a C notch out of the corner where the arms usually contact.
 
Lincoln said:
Your starting to catch on. That was what XJEEPER was pointing you towards with "so I suggest more armor if you're going to continue driving this line". Build the skin a little thicker. Don't worry about what I called you because you'll get your chance to point it back my way.

Personally I was looking hard at the pocket idea in a different way. By creating a channel in the frame it is easier to get the arms to clear without having to bend them or mount them further inboard. I was thinking a C notch out of the corner where the arms usually contact.



ive got thick skin i just dont back down to a debate even when the odds are horrible of me getting anywhere


and your idea sounds interesting, however do you think the arms will be long enough? probably would be fine with under 7" or so of lift though
 
88rockxj said:
ive got thick skin i just dont back down to a debate even when the odds are horrible of me getting anywhere


and your idea sounds interesting, however do you think the arms will be long enough? probably would be fine with under 7" or so of lift though

I was thinking about where the arms hit when they are in the 36" range. On the drivers side the arm has to be almost mounted under the output yoke of the t-case to get it to clear the frame rail. If a notch could be made, similar to the pocket idea, on the inside bottom corner it would create some clearance. Then the joints could be outboard more and give more room around the output yoke. The only other way I've seen it done is with a bent arm to clear that corner of the frame.
 
David Taylor said:
88 would you happen to be infamusbutcher ? It would explain allot.

Shut up Dave. I refuse to smile or laugh at your jokes because you've been getting to play way to much. :D
 
Lincoln said:
I was thinking about where the arms hit when they are in the 36" range. On the drivers side the arm has to be almost mounted under the output yoke of the t-case to get it to clear the frame rail. If a notch could be made, similar to the pocket idea, on the inside bottom corner it would create some clearance. Then the joints could be outboard more and give more room around the output yoke. The only other way I've seen it done is with a bent arm to clear that corner of the frame.



ohhh i was visualizing somthing else, i thought you meant notch it where the factory lowers were. yes that sounds like a good idea
 
JeepFreak21 said:
rim.jpg
I still can't figure this one out.:dunno:
 
Your name use to be Something Butcher right? I remember you from offroad.com... Give someone a side shot of your exo cage. They will get a kick out of how far it hangs down... One thing you are over looking. I understand what you are saying. And it does make some sense. But why would you want to mount the arm to the bottom of the frame with a ramp, when you could leave the arm at the same angle, make it 6-8" longer (read better) and mount it on the inside of the frame. I have not seen one good reason to do what you are saying, other than it is easier.
 
Ipkyss327 said:
Your name use to be Something Butcher right? I remember you from offroad.com... Give someone a side shot of your exo cage. They will get a kick out of how far it hangs down... One thing you are over looking. I understand what you are saying. And it does make some sense. But why would you want to mount the arm to the bottom of the frame with a ramp, when you could leave the arm at the same angle, make it 6-8" longer (read better) and mount it on the inside of the frame. I have not seen one good reason to do what you are saying, other than it is easier.



my exo didnt hang down any lower then any popular after market rock sliders, youre confusing yourself. it stuck OUT past my doors so i didnt have to bend the bottom side of pillars and was going with rockwells and huge tires with probably a 100" out side of tire to tire so i didnt care if my rock sliders stuck out a few extra inches. and the only side picture i have of it makes it look worse then it is.

and im glad you think im totaly wrong when 75% of long arms are built exactley the way im describing, but thanks for AWESOME input you should go spread the word to the thousands with long arms like i describe and tell them how you feel.



btw that was my first exo and first time bending PIPE , i think i did rather good for my first time with no help from anyone using only an angle grinder and a 100$ pipe bender and a 225 lincoln arc welder.



edit: who are you? i dont see any grand information coming from you, yet you feel the need to post simply to shoot down my opinion. youre a class act
 
88rockxj said:
who are you? i dont see any grand information coming from you, yet you feel the need to post simply to shoot down my opinion. youre a class act

Pot calling kettle black. :dunno:
 
Listen (sensor) I was one of the few people that said i understand what you are trying to say. I also have a clayton longarm on the front of my jeep and can't stand it because it hangs down too far. Just because there are other poeple that make it, doesn't make it right. Ask every guy with a tj and a RE rear longarm how much they like there arms hanging down... The rear longarm that I built tucks up into the frame. Its 100 times better. I am pulling out the crap clayton kit and doing my own set up in the front. The clayton kit is strong, but it has to be, Its gets smashed on everything. It will be like the tnt kit for the lowers, But it will be a 3 link like crash has. The radias arm set up is old tech. It has its downfalls. But really, give me one reason that shorter arms mounted to the bottom of the frame with some stupid ramps, are better than longer arms tucked into the frame. I will totally agree with you. Fighting this topic with me and other very inteligent people on this board just some what level of inteligents you are on.
 
Ipkyss327 said:
Listen (sensor) I was one of the few people that said i understand what you are trying to say. I also have a clayton longarm on the front of my jeep and can't stand it because it hangs down too far. Just because there are other poeple that make it, doesn't make it right. Ask every guy with a tj and a RE rear longarm how much they like there arms hanging down... The rear longarm that I built tucks up into the frame. Its 100 times better. I am pulling out the crap clayton kit and doing my own set up in the front. The clayton kit is strong, but it has to be, Its gets smashed on everything. It will be like the tnt kit for the lowers, But it will be a 3 link like crash has. The radias arm set up is old tech. It has its downfalls. But really, give me one reason that shorter arms mounted to the bottom of the frame with some stupid ramps, are better than longer arms tucked into the frame. I will totally agree with you. Fighting this topic with me and other very inteligent people on this board just some what level of inteligents you are on.
You had me until the last sentence.?.? :wierd:
 
Okie Terry said:
You had me until the last sentence.?.? :wierd:
X2
 
Ipkyss327 said:
Listen (sensor) I was one of the few people that said i understand what you are trying to say. I also have a clayton longarm on the front of my jeep and can't stand it because it hangs down too far. Just because there are other poeple that make it, doesn't make it right. Ask every guy with a tj and a RE rear longarm how much they like there arms hanging down... The rear longarm that I built tucks up into the frame. Its 100 times better. I am pulling out the crap clayton kit and doing my own set up in the front. The clayton kit is strong, but it has to be, Its gets smashed on everything. It will be like the tnt kit for the lowers, But it will be a 3 link like crash has. The radias arm set up is old tech. It has its downfalls. But really, give me one reason that shorter arms mounted to the bottom of the frame with some stupid ramps, are better than longer arms tucked into the frame. I will totally agree with you. Fighting this topic with me and other very inteligent people on this board just some what level of inteligents you are on.



i thought we already covered the "giving each other crap" thing ?? its all in good fun man you should know im super defensive by now, just ribbing you a lil like everyone else is doing to me. lets see some pics when ever you get it done, sounds cool. i should have some pics soon for you to poke fun at
 
88rockxj said:
well ive owned over 10 vehicles and im 22, not one of them has been a car. ive owned 3 jeeps , my first jeep i bought before i even had a license at age 15 which was an 87 xj, wheeled it stock excessivley hard untill i blew the cps(had no clue what that was at the time and could not figure it out, was 16 and didnt have too much knowledge) so i stripped it to put a v8 in and lifted it 5 inches but had to move out and never finished it. then bought a 95 xj lifted it 3 inches built a snorkel ,wheeled it pretty good , snapped a front axle on 31s and destroyed my upper control arm. then i tore off my doors and hatch built an exo put 33s on it and rolled it once. then forgot i took my snorkel off and went through some water at high rpms and blew two rods through my oil pan and snapped my cam shaft clean in half. so once again stripped it was putting a 350 in it with rockwells. during that time i got an 88 xj lifted it abut 4 inches put 33s on it and blew 3 sets of spider gears, 2 r&p , 2 front u joints, numerous drive line u joints and even the steering coloumn and 2 radiators and 1 np231 case cracked completely in half that blew goin down the road at 45 mph. parked that and didnt have enough money to finish my 95 so i sold the rockwells and bought a toyota. put cross over, dual transfer cases , 38.5 boggers , rear springs up front with new drop cross member and xj leafs in the back and a flat bed. wheeled that harder then any of the xj's , blew a cross pin in the rear 3rd, two birfields, and snapped the bolts for the drive line a few times. welded frt and rear with a flat belly skid and my tranny tunnel gutted to move my cases up. blew a rod bearing and now its nothing but the frame with a chsbc 350 with dual trannys sitting next to it waiting for some rockwells and a tube bender. and while thats slowly happening im building the 88, inboarded the rear springs built my own front long arm front and cross member , picking up a 14 bolt for the rear sunday.

i live in a town where theres no stop lights and the closest town only has two stop lights, so i did almost all of my wheelin local and yes i LOVE the rocks the most. havnt had much experience in an xj on the rocks becuase i havnt had a very modified xj yet. that being said i made it down to borrega near san diego for the socal xj club annual get together, i think it was 2003 or 02.

im by no means a great wheeler and i dont have 20 yrs of experience but i do what i can with what i have and just try to have fun. theres my 4wheelin life history for you, sorry for the shitty typing i type with two fingers as you know.

heres my destroyed control arm

http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/944292-uca.jpg

heres my exo that never got finished

http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/1122788-j1.jpg

Hey INFAMOUS BUTCHER what type of "POOP" pipe did you use for that exo cage again?
1122788-j1.jpg


-Mike
 
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