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Please Help, P1694 No CCD message from PCM- Aisin transmission

SG Mason

NAXJA Forum User
I have been searching online for two days now and have been having no joy what so ever.

First here is a little background. I bought a 98 XJ Sport with a AW4 in the summer and have been tinkering away on it ever since. The plan was to have it on the road by October 31st when I parked my Stealth. I got the XJ cheap because it has some issues, namely rust and a bad ticking noise. It actually ran fine BTW other than a CEL for the rear O2 sensor. The rust I fixed with no issues other than waiting a month on new quarters, and the ticking was traced to a loose flexplate. It had been loose for some time and the holes were all ovals with small hairline cracks. I purchased a new flexplate and got to work on dropping the original transmission. In the process I managed to break the threaded end off the manual shift valve shaft. For the record that part is no longer available, anywhere. As apposed to buying a used transmission, stripping it down for the one part, and installing that into the existing transmission, I just swapped transmissions.

The replacement transmission came from another AW4 equipped 98 Sport, but they had cut off all the wires and the kick down cable. I had planned on dropping the pan and putting a new filter in it anyhow and I had all the parts on the old transmission, a simple plug and play situation. Well as simple as a one man, driveway transmission swap can be. I followed the FSM to a T, but when I went to start it up and get the fluid level right, it ran like it was ready to die. With a bit of searching and the purchase of a OBDII reader it seemed in all likely hood that the problem was the CPS. At the same time I popped a power steering line so while I was wrestling to swap the CPS I did the PS line too.

With the new CPS and the PS pump not blowing fluid every where the engine was running fine, but I am still getting a P1694 code:gonnablow

I have some medical issues and am not suppose to be wrenching anymore, but it is in my blood and I have to do it. This leads me to having to take pain meds and I get a little dopey and having problems figuring out things that normally are no problem for me, I think this is what is happening right now:wierd:

I have the instructions to test the CCD between the PCM and TCM. I know the PCM connector I need is the gray one. My problem is where is the TCM connector I need to prob?:confused1

I need to get this sorted out so I can get this thing on the road. I have been without a vehicle for 12 days now and this is the only thing holding me up
 
The tcm is under the dash right by the gas pedal. Says Ais in something or other on it. Code 1694 is a communication error that it is not reading the tcm and something else. Try googling that code. You can try resetting the PCM by disconnecting the positive cable from the battery and grounded it against the AC compressor for thirty seconds then reconnect. Turn the key on then your headlights for thirty seconds then lights off then key. Start it and run it. That may clear the code. If you still have that no bus on the dash but keep is running fine. You may have to take out the instrument panel and clean the connectors. These keeps have sensitive electrical systems. It's good to chase all wiring and check for any shorted wires and to clean all the grounds. Took me for ever to find the problem with mine.
 
I have never had the No Bus message on the Odometer, and CCKen has been giving me pointers on another forum:thumbup:

Unfortunately in trying to take the wires off to clean up G101 my XJ has gone from running smoothly with a P1694 code to making a ticking/buzzing noise under the hood on the passenger side when the key is turned on and will now only turn over and not start:eek: I am thinking that I have either broken the ground, screwed up a solenoid, or the coil itself:eek: I can't see having shorted anything out because I fully disconnect the battery when I am working on it. Force of habit after working on a car with 3 blown computer modules (ECM, TCM, ECS) from someone not taking the time to properly jump start it:smsoap:

I am heading out to pick up a couple of ring terminals once I finish my coffee and will cut out and replace the ones on G101. I am hoping I can at least get it running again so I can get the snow blower out of the garage. After that I can either keep chasing or send it to a shop to chase down the P1694. It needs to go to the shop for an alignment and safety check anyhow, whats a few hundred dollars to chase down a possible wiring or TCM issue:tears:

I can't complain to much though I only paid $400 for it and put about another $1000 into it counting the transmission, quarter panels, brakes, and full exhaust from the manifold back. Heck that $1000 wouldn't have even covered the cost of the down pipe and resonator pipe in my Stealth (burned out electronics car), and I love that car:loveu:
 
A P1694 can be caused from other problems on the CCD bus. The instrument panel is one of the terminals on the CCD bus and sends out and receives signals to other terminals. If a signal (message) doesn't show up in a certain amount of time it displays a No Bus message. I can't remember all the details as it was several years ago with a similar problem, a P1694 is similar to a No Bus ... the PCM and TCM need to talk with eachother ... when something interferes with the communications a P1694 is set.

The TCM and PCM work in conjunction with eachother, to perform shifting functions for the transmission.

P1694-CCD MESSAGE FROM JTEC FAILURE

Possible Causes:

INTERMITTENT WIRING AND/OR CONNECTORS
CCD BUS (+) CIRCUIT OPEN TO PCM
CCD BUS (-) CIRCUIT OPEN TO PCM
TCM - CCD BUS OPEN


p1694 CCD message from JTEC failure

Using scan tool, clear TCM DTCs.

Start engine and let idle for at least 2 minutes. Using scan tool, retrieve TCM DTCs.

If DTC P1694 returns

Check instrument cluster gauges for proper operation.

Turn ignition off.

Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness connectors. . Disconnect TCM harness connector.

Using a DVOM, measure resistance of CCD BUS (-) (White/Black wire) between TCM harness connector and Gray PCM harness connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open in CCD BUS (-) (White/Black wire).

Using a DVOM, measure resistance of CCD BUS (+) (Violet/Brown wire) between TCM harness connector and Gray PCM harness connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open in CCD BUS (+) (Violet/Brown wire). If resistance is not as specified, replace TCM.

Conditions necessary to set DTC P1694 are currently not present.

Inspect related wiring and harness connectors. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . Repair as necessary. If no problem is found, check for broken, bent, backed-out or corroded terminal pins. Check for wires that are chafed, pierced or partially broken inside insulation. Repair as necessary.



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My resistances are good on the CCD, both positive and negative are 0.0 ohms CCKen has been giving me advise and instructions on Jeep Cherokee Forums. Tomorrow morning I am going to be checking checking a bunch of things off the TCM harness

Resistance
  • Input and Output Speed Sensors
  • CCD Bus
  • Solenoids
  • TPS
  • Brake Switch

Voltage
  • CCD Bus
  • Transmission Range Sensor (NSS)
  • TPS input
  • Power inputs

One of those things ro the TCM have to be off/bad. I still have the original transmission here so if I need to scavenge parts from it I can, but I would rather not. Either way by noon tomorrow I should know what is wrong with it.
 
I figured I should post the results of my readings here too just in case someone else is having similar problems and stumbles on to this thread and there is no solution or findings reported. I know it always bugs me when i am searching for an answer and someone post the exact same problem but no solution:smsoap:

This is the readings I got this morning it was 32° F here this morning and the actual battery voltage was 12.02 VDC for all but the last reading. I wrote my results from the second last reading in the last spot and didn't realize it till I was making the original post and it had warmed up to 39° F and I never took the battery voltage again That is why the voltage appears to be higher than the actual battery voltage

Check the Input and Output Speed Sensors.

Read between pin cavs 1 and 2. You should see around 625-650 Ohms. 557

Repeat at pin cavs 3 and 4. Same resistance. 562

Check the CCD Bus.

Read between pin cavs 6 and 7. You should see 60 Ohms. 62

Solenoids.

Solenoid C (TCC Lock Up solenoid). Read between pin cav 11 and pin cv 24. You should see 11-15 Ohms. 13

Solenoid A. Pin cav 12 to 24. Again, 11-15 Ohms. 13

Solenoid B. Pin cav 13 to 24. 11-15 Ohms. 13

Check the TPS.

Read between pin cavs 16 and 17. Slowly push the gas pedal down. You should see a resistance climb as the TPS approaches WOT.

To me this one seemed very flaky, The low was never the same and would slowly drop once it got down to the 860 ohm mark. WOT, pedal to the floor would be in the mid 1300s and the high reading was just past the mid part of the pedal travel and read in the high 1500s-low 1600s

Brake Switch.

Read from pin cav 23 to 24. You should see continuity. Depress the brake pedal about a 1/4" or so. You should see the continuity broken and see an Open circuit. 0-85 ohms, never goes to open through full travel


Voltage Checks:


CCD Bus.

Turn key to RUN/ON.

Read from pin cav 6 (+) meter probe, to pin cav 24 (-) meter probe. You should see around 2.5 volts. 2.44VDC

Pin cav 7 to 24. Same as above, 2.5 volts. 2.46VDC

Transmission Range Sensor (NSS).

Key to RUN/ON.

Shift to 3rd gear.

Read from pin cav 9 to 24. You should see battery voltage. 11.90VDC

Shift to 1-2.

Read from pin cav 21 to 24. You should read battery voltage. 11.90VDC

Shift to "D" Drive.

Read from pin cav 22 to 24. You should see battery voltage. 11.90VDC

Voltage inputs.

TPS input.

Key to RUN/ON.

Read from pin cav 17 (+) meter probe to pin cav 16 (-) meter probe.

You should see a low voltage, depress the gas pedal to the floor, you should see a higher voltage (under 5 volts). 0.87 VDC - 4.03 VDC

Power inputs.

Key to RUN/ON.

Read from pin cav 26 to 24. You should see battery voltage. 11.94 VDC

Key OFF.

Read from pin cav 25 to 24. Battery voltage. 12.19 VDC, but I just took this one and it had warmed up a few degrees
 
Well I heard back from CCKen the other day and it looks like I very well may need a replacement TCM. I am not going to do any more diagnostics now and will just get the replacement TCM and see if that cures the P1694 problem. I will pick one up later this week or early next, struggle with the cold and the fact that I am not a yoga instructor to get it in and report back once the deed is done.

For now I am going out to brave the 21° temps with a wind chill of 7° to remove the manifolds and decide if I am welding or replacing the exhaust manifold
 
Got the replacement TCM yesterday and installed it this afternoon. I cleared the codes and then let the Jeep come up to normal operating temp, shut down and read the codes again. With the new TCM there were zero faults, so all I really have to do now in reinstall the bumper and get it in for a safety check and I am good to go.

thanks to anyone that offered help and a special thanks to CCKen who talked me through all the diagnostics.
 
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