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Overheating is not solved

Replaced the headgasket and cured it. What's weird about that is I had zero symptoms of a bad head gasket, plugs were fine, coolant level stayed the same, but replacing it did the trick. Good luck!
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That's the LAST THING I WANTED TO SEE... Ugh! Man... that would suck...

There's no mud in the condensor... ck'ed it... I've had the radiator out of it a few times....
 
I just got a very nice '91 MJ for cheap because the previous owner could not get the cooling problem resolved. He had the waterpump, t/stat, hoses replaced and a valve job done....he failed to replace the worn out rad cap..also the "professionally flushed" oem radiator was still partially plugged.

I installed a new Modine rad and new cap from NAPA..now at 75+ mph on the interstate with the a/c on...never goes above 190.

Anyways...If the hydrocarbon test is negative, the headgasket is ok. If it runs normal temps in easy everyday driving...it points to a capacity problem....Try this...run the heater at max...if it does not get hot enuff to bake a turkey, you have a fluid flow problem (assuming the engine is running hot at the time of the test)...if it is very hot, and brings the temperature down some...you have a capacity problem.
 
Summer is back. So is the overheating problem.

Yes... I re-read the head gasket issue, and will do some testing...

HOWEVER.. I'm leaning more towards a capacity issue...

Apply generous throttle... the gage climbs... normal driving, it comes back down... It will do this even if I drop the tranny back into 2 or 3 gear and let it lock the converter back up...

I've got a CSF... but it might not be a normal one... the UPS guys destroyed the first two... and the third one they sent out wouldn't hook up to the tranny line (oversized 0.010")... so they might have sent me a funky one...

I'll pull it out and drive it this week... and do the heater thing (sweet my butt off)...

Everyone still pretty much happy with the Modines?
 
Have you tried running with the T-stat out? This should allow the coolest possible running conditions. It may raise some question/idead as to what the issue is.

FUNKYTEE5
 
actually, believe it or not, running with the thermostat out can CAUSE overheating. Basically- the coolant doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to let go of it's heat... and just keeps getting hotter, and hotter...


very interesting thread- -I'll keep my eye on it as my Jeep tried to overheat on me today after chasing down a friend on the interstate.
 
That does sound feasible, but it's not usually the case when the vehicle is on the freeway with ample airflow. In every case that I've been involved with, cold running conditions and lukewarm heater output, has been because of a stuck or broken t-stat. It's not a answer, it's just another thing that you can do to gather clues as to possibly diagnosing this problem. It will change the flow characteristics through the system.

FUNKYTEE5
 
90KrawlerXJ said:
My only question is: Do you have a separate trans cooler? If not you absolutely need to add one. Autos(especially the weak AW4) will not survive under heavy use with the radiator cooling. Trust me I've proved it in my XJ. $3200 for a rebuilt trans.
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Wow. You are an absolute moron.
 
I see what you're saying, Funky. MAkes sense now you mention it that way. I thought you were suggesting it as a permanent "fix"

regarding the fellow that calls the AW4 a weak transmission. Wow. What color is the sky where you're from!!? ;)
 
Re: Code P0705

Hi my name Orlando, I have a problem and maybe you can help me. I have a code that keep on showing which is P0705 transmission range sensor circuit malfunction and also is blowing fuse 11a (20 amp) run/start/daytime light. Can you help me. I forgot I have a 1997 jeep cherokee.

Orlando
 
I had experienced a lot of overheating probs in my '91 XJ. I took it to a radiator shop where they boiled the radiator out to clean it. That has helped a ton and when it heats up now it cools again on its own. Something to try anyway.

Von
 
Re: Code P0705

oardonj said:
Hi my name Orlando, I have a problem and maybe you can help me. I have a code that keep on showing which is P0705 transmission range sensor circuit malfunction and also is blowing fuse 11a (20 amp) run/start/daytime light. Can you help me. I forgot I have a 1997 jeep cherokee.

Orlando
Click to expand...


replace the sensor. if that doesn't help then try posting your own thread.

When you're ready to do so click this: http://www.naxja.org/forum/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=43
 
burntkat said:
regarding the fellow that calls the AW4 a weak transmission. Wow. What color is the sky where you're from!!? ;)
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I think the fact that he paid $3200 to have his AW4 rebuilt is far, far more stupid.
 
First off, no body asked what you thought, so there!

Robs- You and I must have identical XJs as we are having the EXACT same problems. Try lifting the hood in the back, and also installing a manual override for the cooling fan, then if you havent done so, remove the trans from the cooling loop completely.

Fergie
 
well, it's good to see someone raised the mentality of the thread... ;P :laugh3:

how will installing a fan CUTOFF switch help the engine cool better?
 
JeepSpeed said:
I think the fact that he paid $3200 to have his AW4 rebuilt is far, far more stupid.
Click to expand...

I have to agree, even though nobody asked, because he coul dhave bought a BRAND NEW AW4 from Mopar for $1900. Or had his rebuilt for $1200. Or just got a low-mile unit out of a junkyard for $400 and been good to go.
 
Thanks Fergie...

I talked to Bryan at http://www.alumrad.com and explained the situation... Had a very good back and forth... finally, he said... "Put in my radiator, and if it don't cure your problem, I'll buy it back"... So how can you go wrong with that????

Bryan certainly seamed to know what he was talking about for the XJ radiator issues... It shows up next Monday... I'll post what happens...

Here's his aluminum one next to a copper one... he believes the long XJ radiator results in flow problems for the smaller tubes...

alucop.jpg
 
what did it run you for that AL jobbie?
 
I notice that he seems to have eliminated the dog leg filler cap. Looking at my 98 thats gotta be a pretty good sized hole that needs to be cut in the top brace. I wonder if there are any issues clearing the hood. What are his prices like ?
 
Bryan said it was a direct OEM replacement, so I'll let you know... It was a very reasonable 2 bills... shipping from AZ to IL was under $20.
 
man- 2 bones for an all AL radiator is a STEAL!!!
 
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