Overheating bad temp gauge ?

Tonyt22

NAXJA Forum User
Location
California
My 93 with a 4.7 stroker has started to run hot . I think . Have the kids suspension cyclone fan set up
After 5 min of warming up temp shows 200 but ir gun on stat housing shows 165 running a glow shift temp gauge only thing that concerns me is it was ethier so hot or dumb luck the heater mixer valve blew yesterday . Temp on the dash shot up to 240 . Jeep runs fine no milkshake clear exhaust i bypassed the heater core while I trouble shoot
 
everytime i have a bad temp sensor probe i got wild temp swings on the gauge. Maybe try another temp sensor, return it if it's not the issue. Seems like an extreme temp swing all of a sudden.
 
Bypassing the heater core might throw off your troubleshooting - I was seeing overheating while I had my heater core bypassed, my theory is that almost all the coolant flow was going through the low restriction bypass and I wasn't getting enough flow through the rad to cool it. Adding a ball valve and shutting it most of the way seemed to help a lot in my case.

I had other contributing issues also, so I might be off base, just something to keep in mind while you diagnose.
 
Bypassing the heater core might throw off your troubleshooting - I was seeing overheating while I had my heater core bypassed, my theory is that almost all the coolant flow was going through the low restriction bypass and I wasn't getting enough flow through the rad to cool it. Adding a ball valve and shutting it most of the way seemed to help a lot in my case.

I had other contributing issues also, so I might be off base, just something to keep in mind while you diagnose.
Were you seeing these higher temps across all speeds or just at idle / low speeds. Even with the orginal heater core set up i thought coolant flowed through those lines anyways. What kind of ball valve / size did you use on this? I have my heatercore bypassed and never thought about this but its a good point. that coolant running through the bypass would increase flow rate through the bypass heater lines but decrease flow through the radiator?
 
Were you seeing these higher temps across all speeds or just at idle / low speeds.
I was seeing higher temps at all speeds, but significant overheating at highway speeds. Full disclosure - my torque converter wasn't locking up, which contributed a ton of heat; my transmission fluid was low, which didn't help matters; my e-fan was non-functional and my engine fan was missing the shroud...I mean, if there was a heat related issue I had it. Reducing flow through the heater core bypass seemed to help a lot but it was just one change among many (fixed all the mentioned issues and also added hood hinge spacers for airflow) and I didn't do scientific testing between each.

Even with the orginal heater core set up i thought coolant flowed through those lines anyways.
I don't know how the OG valve worked, if it turned off flow entirely or redirected it in a loop. Either way, I figure the valve and/or heater core must create some restriction compared to an open hose loop.

What kind of ball valve / size did you use on this?
I'm running a residential natural gas ball valve with 90 degree elbows and NPT to barb adapters on either end (please, laugh at me. I deserve it.). I don't recall the size, I just matched to the heater core hose.

I think it's also worth noting that different radiators could cause different results with this. If a radiator has really easy flow, this is probably much less of a factor.
 
Back
Top