Over the knuckle (loss of turn radius)

SPXJ

SPXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
El Cajon, CA
I fabricated my own over the knuckle steering. The down side is I lost some turning radius.
:dunno:Any ideas for getting my turning radius back??
I thinking about trying a flat longer pitman arm..but there are issues there as well. I don't want to stress the steering box more than it already is. Any thoughts??



Here a write up of my steering fab….

I used 1 1/2 x 1/4 wall chromoly tubing.

Driver side bracket-
DSCF0028.jpg


Passenger side bracket-
DSCF0002.jpg


The brackets are attached at the original tie rod end hole
(drilled out to 5/8”), at the two forward wheel bearing bolts and an additional attach point on the out side of the bracket directly to the forward arm of the knuckle.
DSCF0012.jpg



Here you can see the original tie rod location and the new location, driver side (forward and in).

SP1.jpg


Here you can see the original tie rod location and the new location, passenger side (forward and in).
DSCF0011.jpg


The result of this was the tie rod is forward 1 ½” and 2+/- above its original location. I am very happy with the out come of this steering but I want my steering radius back!!!
 
Last edited:
Pics work for me. not sure what would cause it to loose turning. You are not hitting anything before the stock steering stops hit right? Maybe the shorter then stock main tre assembly has something to do with it. It shouldn't I wouldn't think but you effectively moved the tre mounts inboard more.

Side thought, you did finish welding that driver side didn't you?
 
Longer pitman arm.

You've lengthened the distance between the ball joints and the tie rod ends so you can either get a longer pitman arm or deal with the loss of turning radius.

I had the same issue when I put my HP44 in. I'm not going to a longer pitman arm, as I don't mind the decreased turning radius. I figure I won't have to worry about flogging on my rig when it's at full lock as the u-joints won't be close to maxed out.
 
MoparManiac said:
Longer pitman arm.

You've lengthened the distance between the ball joints and the tie rod ends so you can either get a longer pitman arm or deal with the loss of turning radius.

I had the same issue when I put my HP44 in. I'm not going to a longer pitman arm, as I don't mind the decreased turning radius. I figure I won't have to worry about flogging on my rig when it's at full lock as the u-joints won't be close to maxed out.
Click to expand...

Actually the distance is longer on the drag link and shorter on the tie rod. I guess I could move the mounting point of the drag link to shorten it. Thoughts?
 
Yeah the steering arms are 1 1/2" longer. You will have to either shorten them or lengthen the pitman arm to get the radius back. You might be able to get the steering box to turn further by messing with the internal stops. I don't know how much more you could get as I have never done it myself. I know its possible though.
 
like said. longer pitman arm.

you need to match the added throw of the knuckles
 
I suggest moving the drag link mounting point closer to the knuckle as much as is practical or a slightly longer pitman arm with some steering box bracing. A longer pitman arm might not put any more stress on the steering box than stock because it would be restoring the lever arm that it had stock. You have increased the lever arm of the drag link by mounting it where it is now so that the drag link does not have to exert as much force to turn the wheels. The downside to this is a reduction in travel.
 
jeeperjohn said:
I suggest moving the drag link mounting point closer to the knuckle as much as is practical or a slightly longer pitman arm with some steering box bracing. A longer pitman arm might not put any more stress on the steering box than stock because it would be restoring the lever arm that it had stock. You have increased the lever arm of the drag link by mounting it where it is now so that the drag link does not have to exert as much force to turn the wheels. The downside to this is a reduction in travel.
Click to expand...


So back toward the axle and original tie rod attach point? Bare with me John...I'm slow sometimes:laugh:
 
Did some checking and looks like the Wagoneer Pitman arm is about an 1 1/4" longer with only a 1" drop. Looks like it could help with my turning radius.
 
Gamma is the only one that hit it right - you destroyed the Ackerman angle on your rig...

spend some time researching ackerman - on google and the sites listed above.

this is the exact reason that the WJ 'high steer' with a right hand drive WJ knuckle, and true high steer sucks - it does the same thing to the ackerman.
 
Ba-Riedo said:
I just read those websites and am more confused by what is happening.

-Alex
Click to expand...

Essentially, the front tires when turning are not following the same path. One tire is farther from the center of your turning circle than the other, so the turning radius of each tire is different. Therefore, in order for your Jeep to turn correctly without dragging a tire, the inside front tire has to have a bit more steering angle than the outside tire, because it follows a smaller radius circle. The second link shows it well how to adjust this based on the length of the steering arm on the knuckle.
 
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